My age is showing with yet another ‘used to be’ hobby product no longer available. [|(]
The last time I built a layout control panel (early 1980’s) I used Letraset dry transfer white stripes for the track diagram that were readily available on 8-1/2 x 11 sheets from a local engineer/drafting supply company.
With the state of computerized graphics design today neither Letraset (or ChartPak) dry transfers white stripes are available locally or anywhere else that I could find based on my Google search, leaving only Woodland Scenics dry transfer white lines. And the limited quantity of each grouped line width on one card would require me buying multiple cards just to get the quantity of the line width I want for (4) separate control panels on my new, retirement build-in-progress DCC layout.
I’ve tried various other methods (painters blue tape masks, striping tape, etc.,) with frankly lousy looking results. If Woodland Scenics is the only source now then I’ll have to bite the bullet on cost to get the quantity of the stripe size I want. But I thought I’d fly it by forum readers first for a possible source I couldn’t find (or easy as dry transfer alternatives).
I know the age thing,going on 70,aside from that…Did you try automobile, pin striping?? I have 1/8 inch,wide white,on my three, control panels, now going on 10 yrs,with no problems… They come in different, colors and widths, 1/16 on up… Not too expensive ,they come in rolls,you peel off the backing, and stick on the panel… Any auto shop should have them,like Auto-Zone and the like…
Thanks for the reply…and I’m closer to 74 but “over50” sounds a heck of a lot better…plus, I’ll assume you can relate to the joys of trifocals and not quite so nimble fingers of our youth…
Anyway, I have two rolls of striping tape (1/16 and 1/8) from the model airplane section of my LHS and as I noted the results were lousy. I cant keep the tape straight over a 6 inch length or more … plus it tends to stretch when pulling with enough force to line up with the markers. This is what I liked about dry transfer - I could see through the white stripes to position them, make a slight cut through the paper to cut the strip where I wanted it and then burnish in place.
Also tried masking the lines with blue painters tape but got “under bleed” and if I really pressed the tape in place to try to correct this the tape lifted some of the control panel paint.
I’ve read where some guys have come up with great looking control panel track diagrams they just adhered to a panel and covered with lexan or Plexiglas but I don’t have M$ Power Point software they used…
I’m sorry, I didn’t think, about the restrictions,on the glasses issue,I need glasses,to see close,like in painting,military figures,which I DO A LOT OF… There are some people,on the forums,that have done what you were thinking about, maybe they’ll chime in and help… I can’t show you how I did mine with the tape,but I used Lexan plastic, (clear) with a hand drawn template,helps if you have drafting skills,and put the tape on that way… That was after all the holes and such were drilled for the components, with the protective paper still on… Put the panel face down on a flat surface and spray painted, which would be the backside of the panel,black,that way you don’t have to worry about marring the surface…
If you want to try the paint method again,Scotch 3M,Fine Line Tape, is the best to use for masking to make lines, no bleed under, I used it many times,when I painted cars and semi’s,owned my own trucks at one time…
Good luck to you,If you were near Chgo,I’d do it for you…
Appreciate the follow up, Frank. I wasn’t aware of the “fine line tape” so I’ll check this out today.
Being a creature of habit I’m using painted tempered hardboard for my track diagrams/push buttons that I intended to clear spray coat to protect the dry transfer lines like I’ve done over the nearly 40 years I’ve been in the hobby with each layout build. But as I said the last time I did this (new layout and control panels) was in the early 80’s and Letraset dry transfer white stripes (and many other choices) were readily available. I’ll rethink using Lexan or Plexiglas, masking the lines…and just biting the bullet on the cost and buying the number of Woodland Scenics cards I need …
Your hardboard panel should be easy-enough to do with paint. After you have it drilled for the buttons which will be installed later, very lightly sand the surface with a fairly-fine sandpaper - 200 or 300 grit, or even finer. Next, paint the panel white (or whatever colour you want for the track layout) and allow it to dry completely.
Next, use a hard pencil and a straightedge to draw an outline of your trackplan on the white paint, making sure to keep the width of the “track” constant.
Next, lay a strip of masking tape, sticky-side-down, on a clean sheet of glass. Use a straightedge to ensure that it’s put down straight, and make the strip as long (or longer) than the longest one needed for your panel. I use regular masking tape, and in the widest width available. Next, using the straightedge and a new blade in your utility knife, trim about 1/4" from the edges of the tape - even on a new roll, the edges pick up fuzz and dirt, and being exposed somewhat to the air, the adhesive near the edges dries out somewhat, making it less-sticky.
Now, measure and mark the tape for cutting into strips - a divider or drawing compass works well to keep the width constant. Mark for only one strip at a time, and make the strips very minimally-narrower than the width which you used to draw on the panel: you don’t want to cover the pencil markings on the panel, but merely use them as guidelines. Lay the tape onto the panel, using the guidelines and making sure to not cover any pencil markings, then sight-down the tape to ensure that it’s straight. Burnish the tape to prevent bleed-under - a finger nail or the handle of your X-Acto knife works well, but don’t over-work it. Once all the tape is in place, paint on the main colour of the panel, and as soon as the paint is dry to the touch, remove all of the masking tape. To prevent lifting the white paint of the track diagram, pull the tape back over it
He can do exactly like you are saying,but use the fine line tape,instead of the masking tape… The fine line tape,comes in different widths,starting with,1/16,up… My understanding is his eye-sight isn’t the best, so cutting the masking tape,would be a problem…
Not having heard of fine line tape I did a Google search and what I found was there are different types of fine line tape - plastic, polypropylene and another one I can’t remember right now. So which one is the best for minimum bleed under, i.e., the clearest separation when pulled? Also, where would I be most likely to find fine line tape - big box stores, auto supply stores … ??
The fine line tape, made by Scotch 3M THAT I am referring to,does not stretch.or tear… The,tape,is similar to the color of masking tape… The one that is 1/16 wide, Scotch 3m 218 Fine Line Tape. part #06306,1/16in x60yds, 1/4 is part#06301,60yds also…I don’t have the,1/8 size… They can be purchased at any Auto Parts & Paint Supplies,dealer… Like I said, I’ve used it many times, on cars and trucks,with great results…
My club does very much the same for these panels, on tempered as well as 1/4" MDF. Wayne’s suggestion to lightly sand and paint is very important. Don’t just use any white paint, not sure if you are “rattle” can painting or roller/ brushing. We prime all our panels, whether backdrop, fascia or control/ track diagram w/ Zinzeer 123 (water base blue label) excellent product and found at most all Home centers. Some of the best adhesion and will dry to a satin gloss that will take masking well. We do, however, use various colors to designate divisons and will spray paint the color on the “primed” panel. The 1st coat of primer is lightly sanded and may need a 2nd application. You can fine roller, but roller texture can affect the final masking results (thus sanding and 2nd brush coating) if doing so.
I have used the “Fineline” tape for years for auto/ paint masking long before model use. A suggestion, store the tape in a ziploc freezer bag to protect from dirt and drying. When used don’t lay on any potentially dirty surface (workbench). I always will place any masking tape on the plastic bag during use.
A hint to place the tape as straight as possible is to allow the tape to follow a straightedge of foamcore, styrene or thicker steel rule. You need the thickness of of at least 1/8" but 1/4" works better. This acts as a guide to allow the “roll” to be placed straight. Avoid any excessive pull that will stretch the tape, pulled evenly off the roll can provide a straight stripe as long as t
You mentioned that you’ve tried model airplane pinstriping tape, but have you actually tried the automotive stuff? I’ve never tried the model airplane tape, but I would think that they are very different products.
I’ve been using automotive striping tape for years. A control panel isn’t a “model,” and it’s subjected to fingers all the time. The automotive tape has proven to be robust and durable. It’s also very easy to apply, and holds a straight line very well.
I bought a 4x8 sheet of what the big-box stores call “shower liner.” It’s tempered hardboard with a plastic laminate on one side. It’s available in lots of decorator colors, but I chose white. I use black tape for the track diagram. This gives me sharp contrast and a panel that’s easy to read, even in reduced lighting for nighttime operations.
Appreciate all the suggestions. [Y] Just to mention I did brush prime the tempered hardboard with water-based Zinzer 123 then lightly sanded with a fine grit, brush primed and buff sanded again for a smooth surface before spray painting (shaker can) the panels the contrasting color after the striping tape was pulled. It was at this point where I ran into the paint pulling when I used the model airplane striping tape and began pulling it up (and yes, pulled slowly at an extreme opposite angle …).
3 things with the model airplane striping - it has a thickness (which I was leery of), it stretches when pulled taut (as I found out) and it’s opaque (can’t see drawn guide lines and why I couldn’t maintain straight lines).
As for the fine line tapes, Frank mentioned it’s transparent enough to be able to line up with drawn guide lines which I also didn’t know. From everyone’s description this tape has the desired similarities of dry transfer striping.
Again, many thanks to all for the great suggestions including the fine line tape I wasn’t aware of - and where to buy the stuff so I can do some “test taping” to see how it handles…