I’m in the planning stage of a new, hi-rail layout. Basement is 13’ X 32’ and I’m thinking about an around the wall design, with a duck-under at the door (I already have read all of the comments about that) about 4-5 feet wide along each wall. I would really like to have a double track main line since I’m most interested in running multiple, long trains.
My question is how many tracks and nice scenery “fit” in the 4 foot width? As I start to draw my track plan it seems as though the four main lines plus a couple of sidings eats up all of the available real estate, leaving no room for buildings, road, etc. However, when I look at some of the plans in CTT it appears as though the four feet of width should be enough. Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bob
My rule of thumb is to allow 4" per track. You could squeeze that down on the straight sections, but you need it on the curves, and it’s just easier to stick to 4" everywhere.
Thnaks Elliot!
I checked my drawings and have been spacing out the track at about 6". With four to five tracks in the four foot width that will get m,e back 8 inches or more and provide some room for the scenery.
Bob
Bob,
Watch out for the 4" spacing on curves, depending on your radius you could have problems with the overhangs hitting on passing trains. I used 4.5" based on the spacing for a Ross dbl. crossover and have apprx. 72"diam. and 64" diam. adjacent tracks. So far no problems, though I don’t run any of the scale articulateds.
I’m working in a similar space, 13.5 X 22 feet. SO i have some ideas for you. First i went around as much as possible with O-72. I then installed a longer point to point switching section. However i would be wary of the 4-5 feet wide along the wall. Makes for tough work getting to the back of the layout. I’m 6’2" and a three foot reach is big for me. Aside from that, have a great time. Are you doing a table top layout or open gridwork?
I’m going to speak up. If you twist Elliot’s [Big Boy] arm, he can help alot. He did a great one for me and fitted in all you are thinking of and more. Elliot, the wife is now saying for me to take over the walk-i-n attic too [where the door that was never used much is]. If I get all the stuff out of there, I could squeeze in a switching yard for storage of trains in there. Will have to insulate and cover the walls [which is not problem]. This dang garden is taking too much time. Next year she says 3/4 of it will be a swiming pool.
Chief, better get the professionals to maintain that pool- Doing it by yourself will definately take away from train time- I’m the poolman for my parents’ pool, so I know of what I speak[:)]
I now about pools. At other house, had 20 X 40. Not bad if you add extra skimmers and keep your chemicals right [don’t skimp there]. Use to shock it once a week [Sunday night after all the kids played all weekend]. Never had it turn green on me. My neighbor has one and he does not tend to it. Its green right now as the big rain hit it.
I can say with a good deal of certainty that down to 060 (a 5’ diameter circle) the 4" rule works even for 80’ scale cars. The overhang isn’t pretty, but they work and don’t hit. Keep in mind, the shorter your cars the less problem overhang is. Ross’ 4.5" spacing is only because it is harder to cram all that rail together for manufacturering, not because the trains need it.
Here’s something to think about. Real trains run on track with the rails spaced 4’-8.5". Steps on a modern diesel locomotive might be as wide as 12’. Actually it is probably less than 12’, but that scales out to 3". Add a couple of feet for safety on both sides, and you get 4".
Bob N, 10’ 8" is an interesting number, and sounds good to me. The 12’ mark was just a ballpark guess, and not too bad all things considered. I only missed by 8" per side.
Thanks for the plug Frank. Right now I still have to fini***ony’s plan. It kind of sounds like this Bob wants to draw his own anyway, but I am happy to help in any way. I love a challenge.
4-5 ft of track is more than enough. In fact, I’d say too much. That is the challenge of track planning and city layout. There are tons and tons of techniques:
Forced perspective
Selective compression
Run a mountain over a large portion of the main tracks and scenic it or run a spur up over onto this mountain (or sloping hill) and locate a coal mine or gravel pit there.
Run roads and streams diagonally on the layout so they don’t take up as much space
run towns and industries diagonally
gently curve your mainline everywhere
use relatively short spurs
run a multi-deck layout
etc etc
If there were a way for you to post the plan, we could comment.
WOW!
It’s Monday night here in Olathe, Kansas and I just want to say thanks to everyone who’s passed on their comments. I’ll certainly keep in mind the issue of overhang, although my plan is 72 and 80 inch curves on the mainlines, maybe down to 42 on the sidings and spurs. Also helpful was the comment about 4 feet of reach. As far as actual construction my previous two layouts, although much smaller in scale were table tops (a couple of 4X8 sheets on each end of the basement connected by a shelf), I am intrigued by the L-girder method I’ve been reading about. It just seems so much more flexible, especially for elevation changes.
Hope everyone has a safe week.
Bob