I’m planning a double deck layout and need some recomendations for lower deck lighting. I’m working in HO.
Part of the bench work will be 24" deep and part of it will be 14" deep and it will all be seperated by 18" level to level.
I’m thinking of using Compact Florescent bulbs (the kind you screw into light fixtures) mounted horizontally below the upper deck and fastened to the facia.
What I’m stumped with is bulb spacing and bulb wattage ie. 60, 75 or 100 watt equivalent.
Anyone have any expirence or suggestions?
In advance, I greatly appreciate any help you might offer !!
John T. in the dry cow pasture in the middle of Texas
You’ll have “hot spots” of light using the screw-in bulbs. A better solution would be tube flourescents - some thin ones are not overpowering, or the new LED strips - although the better ones are pricey. My[2c]
I have a double deck layout that is lit entirely with CPFLs.
I did numerous experiments with all type of tubes, brite sticks, halogen, x-mas lights, light ropes etc. The goals were bright pleasing light with low initial hardware cost and low operational cost. By far I liked the halogens and the incandescents but they didn’t meet most of the criteria. I settled on CPFLs when the prices dropped and they came out with the warm white versions in 40 watt equivalents (cheap at HD).
If you start doing the math on power consumption you will see that to light any space adequately begins to add up in a hurry wattage wise (roughly one amp per 100 watt bulb). The biggest current draw for most layouts will be the lighting power load. CPFLs in the 40 watt output range draw 11 watts!!! This is a huge advantage. The industry is producing incandescent color range CPFL bulbs very cheaply now, and while the color isn’t perfect, I have always liked the “incandescent look”…
The layout looks good with these lights and I don’t have problems with the dreaded “dark cavernous lower deck look” that plagues a lot of double deck layouts. Using cplfls enabled me to cut the power draw by about 70%. This meant more candle power in spots and less hand wringing about maxing out circuits (I have 40 amps dedicated to the room)
I used Fugate’s idea of the porcelain sockets along the inside of the upper deck with CPFLs in them. This allows for very flexible placement of the light source and not nearly as much heat build-up from the lights (due to less watts). The sockets can be bought at OSH for about $2.00 to $4.00 each depending on the type. They are much easier to place and position than tubes when working in tight spots. I have mine wired with the 120V buss in the very back of the deck (separate color code wires) to avoid any problems.
Harold, What about lining the under side of the upper deck with something like Aluminium flashing material? It would make a good reflector!
I’m trying to minimize anything protruding into the scene ---- by the way, every time I go look at the Pacific Coast Airline, I’m blown away with your skill.
Guy, This is the kind of info I was looking for! Like you, I was concerned with the power load and heat of adequate incandesant lights and the 2’ and 4’ strips didn’t seem to fit the cost projections as well as mounting problems ---- THANKS!! John
