I hope this is the correct area to post this. I inherited a Key Imports brass Niagara from my father. When I first saw it, I was excited, this is one on my all-time favorite locomotives. Then I noticed the fireman’s side rear driver is broken. Where the connecting rod bolts into the driver the “socket” on the driver is broken and the screw is missing. Is there any where I can find parts for this loco? best I can find in my research this thing is from the 1970’s. (when I get home, I can add pictures if needed).
Thanks in advance,
Al
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Doubt you will find parts. You will need to source a common-size replacement screw (and perhaps turn the head slightly) and fill, drill and tap the broken pin socket in the driver.
Use the screw on the opposite side as a reference. You may want to purchase a model screwplate for fine screws rather than try to measure the threads and dimensions directly. You will also want a good model drill press capable of holding the driver pair precisely upright but adjustable to give precise positioning to drill the hole in the driver accurately and square, and then tapping the hole square without breaking the small hardened tap.
I’d use JB Weld epoxy as the ‘filler’ to replace the broken area. Smooth and shape it before drilling.
While you have the engine apart, be certain (making a jig will help!) that all four driver pairs are in precise quarter with each other. On an electric toy the actual degree of ‘quarter’ does not have to be as nearly 90 degrees as on an actual steam engine, but all four pairs DO need to be the same within the clearance of the rod eyes – which ought to be relatively little.’
Clean and lubricate the drive and clean the commutator while you’re in there.
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@Woke_Hoagland thank you for your response. I figured parts would be impossible to find on such an old model. I was wondering if i could use something like jb weld. But this is a little more involved fix than i was expecting. I have a friend in the train club that may be able to help with ghe drill press and taps.
Al
It is not a major machining operation, but it is very important to do what you do the right way, with the right suitable equipment and tools. I know that I can’t drill the hole precisely square, precisely at stroke distance, freehand whether or not the wheelset is clamped in a vise.
Maybe one of these places can help you.
I looked quickly and didn’t see 79" Boxpok coupled wheels. They do have ‘78" Boxpok’ mains for the streamlined Mercury Pacifics, which I’d have naively expected to be unobtanium…
Thank you both. I probably will try the jb weld solution. But i need to make sure I can access the correct tools. I understand it’s not a major machining project but tgere does neex to be a little more precision than i can manage free hand.
Al
I don’t know how closely an LMB Niagara matches one from Key Imports but if it would help you out I have an LMB (Leonard M Blum from Hobby House in Cleveland, Oh.) Niagara chassis you can have. Perhaps the drivers would be compatible? You might have to swap all 4 otherwise the axle spacing would have to be ‘perfect’ in order for the side rods to avoid binding. No idea if the axle gear would match? (NWSL might help here) also I’m not sure how that eccentric crank is installed. It looks like it was soldered on after the crank pin was screwed down.
NYC S-1 LMB left elevation by Edmund, on Flickr
NYC S-1 LMB bottom up by Edmund, on Flickr
NYC S-1 LMB left rear by Edmund, on Flickr
NYC S-1 LMB top down by Edmund, on Flickr
You’ll notice the paired side rods on drivers 2-3 as the real S-1s had.
Good Luck, Ed
@gmpullman, sure thanks. I’m a little new here how do we arrange this?
Al
Try Greenway Products, they have a large selection of brass wheels, they are not always open but it doesn’t hurt to contact them.
Rick Jesionowski
Thank you, Rick. They have several different 69" drivers. Just need to look and research the correct ones.
Thanks,
Al
If you click on my icon a menu will pop up showing an envelope and the tag ‘Private Message’.
You send me your mailing address and I send you the locomotive frame.
Cheers, Ed
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