Looking for some comments, suggestions, and maybe even some CONSTRUCTIVE criticism.

When I wrote this request a couple days ago, just as I was about to hit post, I had a Webpage crash, and lost the whole thing.

So, if at first you don’t succeed, try, try again.

I am planning what will be something like my 6th or 7th layout in the last 55 or so years. I’ve rarely had any contact with other model railroaders in the past. So, just like to get some comments from some more focused or experienced people.

Room: 12X13’, semi-finished basement. I figure I can fit an 8’ or 9’ X 13’ doughnut. Figure on a 42"X 7 or 8" center. One side and end against the wall.

Scale: HO. Do have some N, but after a very frustrating excersize converting from Rapido to Kadee couplers, I decided N is too small for any serious effort for my upper middle age eyes and fingers. The few people I’ve talked to convinced me the Rapido coupler isn’t too good for switching. I might still build a small coffee table layout using what I have, though, in the future.

Layout: Sort of tri-level, multipe oval. Would like to be able to have two or three trains running laps while I switch yard or industrial area. Mid level along the 13’ wall, dropping to a lower level and rising to a higher level on the open side. Mid level to be one urban/industrial level. Lower level, possibly either an inner and outer urban/industrial area with scenic dividers enclosing a hidden staging area if space permits, or just a single urban/industrial area with a staging area. Possible provisions for plug-in cassetes on the open end. Upper area will be a yard with engine terminal servicing steam and diesel. Can’t see using one or two helices for the grade separation. Most likely L girder construction.

Track: Looking for 26" minimum on main, 18" to 22" in yards and industrial tracks. Have

Looks to me, as if you are trying to put an awful lot of model railroading into a space only seemingly big. Tri-level, multiple oval, some switching facilities, a “wild” assortment of different track that may not be matching properly - I think it will be quite some task to come up with that will be satisfying to build and operate in years to come. Even if you have a lot of stuff already on hand, a layout is always some investment in terms of time and money and therefore should be well planned. As you have build layouts before, you are not a newcomer - you know quite well, how important those two first phases of dream,-plan-build are, so take your time.

April 2008 MR had a layout featured which may come close to what you envision - the Montreal Harbor RR. It is not really multilevel ovals, though, I I find it too cramped with track.

Also take a closer look at DCC. It allows you to “operate” your loco instead of controlling the track power. You may find that it allows a more realistic approach to operation while at the same time minimizing wiring effort. This could change your layout needs as well.

hi,

I second the opinion of Ulrich and I have three questions.

  1. what do you mean by levels? Three levels, each 15 inches apart with completely different scenes on them, or three levels each 2 inches apart in one scene? (In the Nov. 09 MRR a pike had two levels about 2.7" apart.)

2)Are you aware of the consequences of building a modern pike, like 30" to 40" radii and #8 switches? In John Armstrong terms you have a 4x3 squares pike only.

3)Have all the goodies you mentioned to be placed on your new layout?

Paul

That plan has many issues and I would not recommend it. Some of the problems are discussed in this thread:
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/thread/1444612.aspx

What the original poster is proposing seems like too much for the available space, unless he can be content with a “spaghetti bowl” of track and not much room for anything else. Re-using very old brass track components may prove to be a false economy, but best of luck.

A good step would be to attempt a to-scale sketch of what you have in mind, using accurate measurements or templates of the track components. That would tell the OP a lot about the practicality of his desires.

Maybe a little better explanation of the table layout is in order. Looking at it from the 8’ or 9’ end, the right hand side, against the wall, would be at some moderately comfortable level, 44" to 46". This would contain the principal city/industrial area. A spur would probably reach to the end of the table at the observer’s POV for connection to a modular cassette for an interchange point (Possible future expansion). As the line moves to the open (left) side, there will be 2 grades. One would drop down to reach the second level, with my proposed hidden staging and one or two fairly narrow urban/industrial areas. There would also be a rise to the third level containing the engine servicing, a small yard, another urban/industrial vignette, and another spur to the table edge for a possible second expansion module. In essence, the observer is looking at a Wye switch in vertical cross-section. I’m not certain right now if I’d have the upper level part of the oval structure or just have the yard single sided. The two ends would be wooded or rural scenes to serve as scenic separation between urban areas.

I have seen layout ideas in MRR and RMC using a similar concept.

I have a few cars that wouldn’t quite handle a 22" radius or the snap switches. One is an old Ambroid 1 in 5000 Tobacco Hogshead car, and another is a three unit articulated diner bashed from 3 Athearn 72’ passeger cars. There are a couple others. They just squeak by on 23", and are comfortable on 24" and above. Everything else can operate on 18" or 22".That’s why I was thinking of 26" and obviously 28" radius curves for the main line ovals. Anything larger than that just ain’t doable in the space I have. Maybe I could lower the inner oval to 24"R. I have only one #8 switch. It’s an old Tru Scale #8 high speed switch. If my finalized design has room, it would definitely only go

hi,

do you mean this?

Problem is the length of the grade. If you want the (levels?? or) decks more then 1 foot apart you’ll need to go around the whole pike.

Paul

With the risk of repeating myself, as your wishes are quite complex and not easy to incorporate in one layout of the size you have available, why don´t you make a rough sketch of your ideas and post it here? You help us to understand what you would like to achieve and there is a good basis to build on.

Btw, you don´t need any software to draw your track plan - paper, a pencil and a ruler will do.