For some time now, I wanted to have a couple or so unique locomotives on my layout. I looked up and read some interesting information about the Genset locomotives and I want to have one either custom built or just kitbash loco shells. With that thought in mind, I also thought of making a kitbash cab end (NW2, MP15, etc.) Genset type locomotive as well. I wouldn’t risk doing it myself for fear I might ruin a locomotive shell that might result in me buying another shell just to have a whole locomotive not just a power chassis.
For my genset locomotives, I drew inspiration from my HO undecorated Genset model
For the cab end Genset Switcher idea, I drew my inspiration from two undecorated N scale (I think) genset locomotives.
The only thing I would change would to have a cab on the end instead of near the end as you see.
My question is, is anyone able to kitbash two for me, know a model railroad company that offer the custom service, or if not, what are the steps on kitbashing it myself??
Most likely, you’ll be able to afford to waste several shells for what the cost of a custom build would be. I encourage you to dive in and give it a try. Depending on the shell, you’re likely not pay more than $20 or so, unless it’s a recent model, where it might get pricey. That’s what I pay for Kato shells anyway, which I use in making this HOn3 conversion I call a NW2M. You can see the ghost of the lettering on the donor shell underneath my Earl Schieb paint job on this one…[:$] I did a better job on the next paint bucket, but you’ll have a much easier time if finding a custom painter than a custom builder, too, if you don’t want to risk that part.
Which brings up the subject of which drive you want to use. That’s the first thing to figure out. Then that gives you an idea of what donor shells will work, as you use the exact same shell and cut a slice that matches the mother shell exactly. Then you’ll want to pick something that uses a switcher-type endcab, as that’ll solve the problem of giving you an end cab to suits your desires, although you can also cut a cab off another shell entirely or use one of the nice aftermarket switcher cabs. All you do then is square up the mother shell, set the cab in place, and figure out how big the slice from the exact same type of shell that needs to be there to stretch the hood to meet the inside end of the cab.
That’s pretty much what I did with #100 anyway, taking the usual taper out of the hood, then moving the cab back and down. Once I’d used the razor saw to carefully do both, I cut a straight section from the donor hood, got everything together, then added dynamic brake and steam generator detail.
