I didn’t get to check anything today, but I’m leaning towards something wrong with the turnout. I switched multiple rail joiners to no relief. I used the same rail joiners with different sections of track, without the turnout, and everything worked. That leads me to believe it is the turnout. I was going to try and clean the contact points/end of the rail to see if that would help. It’s an Atlas Customline #4 left. The point where it stalls is the straight section or right track after the track splits.
I need to dig through my electrical supplies to find the voltage tester. That’ll be next weekend’s project.
Before you start replacing track components - add some extra feeders on the opposite side of the turnout… Two wires to the tracks is NEVER enough, expecially with sectional track and unsoldered rail joiners.
The only thing with that, this layout is very temporary, maybe only 2-4 months before I’ll either have to move it or take it down to make way for the possible expansion of our family. My hope was a quick and easy fix without diggin tok deep into the electrical. I know I’ll need to eventually, especially if I’d like to get into DCC at some stage. Without adding feeders and checking rail joiners, what could my next step be?
When I was a kid we never head room for a permanent layout. We set it up basiclly for the month of December. That layout had at least 10 blocks, with the switches to control them, plus used 3 power packs, each for one of the looops. Plus all of the structures on the layout had lights, and there were other operating accessories like the cable cars to the top of the mountain. This was hooked up then broken down every time, remaining operational for a month. So I would just wire it properly and enjoy trouble free operation for the months you have. What I did on my last two layouts was make EVERY rail joiner a terminal joiner - just sodler wires to the joiners, don;t overpay for the premade ones. With a sectional track layout that’s probably overkill, you probably have more joiners in a 4x8 then I did in an around the room 13x15 layout.
Slight electrical improvemtn could be done by perhaps soldering alternate joiners at eash joint. For example, where two pieces of track joine, solder the joiner to the bottom rail or the track on the left, and the top rail of the track ont he right. The two pieces then still just slide apart, but only one joint per rail is sliding and potnetially a problem - tighten the sliding side of the joiners down good and it should be a fairly reliable connection. Be consistent with which side has a soldered joiner and the track will all be interchangeable - for example every piece of track would have a soldered joiner on the bottom rail on its right side, and its top rail on the left. Flip that piece of track end for end and it still has a joiner on the bottom on the right, and top on the left. For long straight runs, if the track isn;t fastened down, use a piece of flex track. The fewer joints, the better. If it isn;t fastened down - fasnten the track down. Movement as the trains run over will work the joiners lose and cause electrical problems. A few track nails will hold things in place and are easy enough to pull out when it’s time to take it apart.
They read about 13.6 vac with my NCE Power Cab when I went to DCC. I was told they are not very accurate. Go figure.
If to lazy to learn how to use a meter, get an ice pick tester. Old timers used these back many years ago for working on car electrical. I remember my dad using one on his 1943 Buick Roadmaster around 1950.
Seeing as how You are reluctant to add feeders, (in Your case I can understand why) there is electrically conductive paint on the market that may work for You around Your problem rail joiners. I’ve never used it, but have heard that it does work. It is not as pricey as some out there. Might be worth a try in Your circumstance: