Well, that about explains it. I Fried my control master 20 power pack last night [:(] .Dont really know what all happen but the DC ( track side ) seems to be shot. I Made a shelf under my layout for it and everything was going well, move the unit and start trying to try and figure out all the wiring again; ( dumb mistake i know) but, a electrical wiz i am not . Well,starting hooking up power wires and the turnout wire nothing? if i just hooked up a re-railer wire it work on just a portion of the track but, when i hooked up my left and right turns nothing? Well i was frustrated and throught the 6hr. or so i guess i messed something up cause one minute i couldnt get one side of my layout to work( the other side wire hooked up it worked fine) as i was saying only one side would work part way then all the sudden boom sparks and warp 25 !! [:0]
Lets just say i had my first derailment, multiple train crash and got a 18 wheeler T-bone’d in less than 15 sec!!![B)][V]
I am so stupid, i have no idea about electrical crap at all,so, what to do now?Should i use my half burn’t up master 20 for all my lights and houses and stuff or tra***he darn thing? anyone think i might start a fire later down the road?
Oh, and i guess finally , looks like a good time to go DCC now that i did this. Any suggestion on a good system ? I am onyl going to want to run a few trains , but i want sound , Has to be really easy to hookup and stuff. probably needs to be able to program on the track since i dont have a sperate track for programing.
Welp, sorry for the crude just had to vent a little and ask a few questions
Cheers
C.C.
It may just be Nature’s way of telling you to transition to DCC. It’s the 21st century, after all.
My “programming track,” by the way, is an old 9-inch piece of Atlas snap track with terminals on it. No need to get fancy. When I’m not using it, I stash it underneath the layout. Oh, I almost forgot. It’s brass. If I can’t have brass locomotives, at least I can have a brass programming track.
Where did the sparks come from the unit itself, somewhere on the layout, or a locomotive? As I recall the Control Master 20 is an electronic throttle (transistorized). I would open the thing up and see what fried, and disconnect anything that might start a fire. But as you have indicated no knowledge of electricity, it might be wiser just to throw it away rather than taking a chance.
Well before a you even consider hooking up a DCC system, you need to figure out what it is you did to toast the Control Master 20. Those are fairly rugged units so a DCC system could fry much quicker.
Thanks Mr. B. , your probably right about the time to move on.
Well Texas Zepher, i m pretty sure it was something in the unit that fried , i can run my layout with my other power pack just fine just slower. The sparks were from the connection first then a spark and pop from the inside of the ( 20) then i smelt electical smell( if you know what i mean.
Since the unit has a remote , if you increase power on the knob ( remote ) a light on the unit will brighten up as you advance the knob. well at first the light wouldnt go out ( i tapped the unit and it finally did) well now nothing ; i opened it up( curious) and didnt see any wires loose ; there are a few little discolored marks on the back of the board but that is all. Oh , i put one of those little light tester things on the terminals and nothing lights up on the dc at all, just the AC side?
well i have no clue …guess that was a $90 dollar mistake on my part.[B)]
thanks for your help , i am going to have to just break down and buy a DCC unit just dont know if i should go with the MRC prodigy express, advanced ,or the NCE power cab?
Talon there would be no power on coming from the DC terminals unless you have the throttle anywere but 0%. I would switch to dcc as soon as you can. If you have less then ten trains sitting on the layout. would reccomend the bachmann ez-dcc sytem i got mine for $64 at a train show. It is very easy to hook up and can program any were on the layout. It has basic sound functions also. Thats about what can offer from the info you gave. Tim
Well, trainfreek92, i tried with the throttle full on and at 0%. nothing both ways. There should be somethingout of the unit. i forgot to metion earlier that sorry. And like i did say after the sparks and noise ,the trains took off at warp speed flying off the track and the lights were really bright on the trains?And there wasnt any speed control from the hand held, i picked up the train put it back on the track and off at warp speed again?
There isnt really much more than that. On the DCC system i dont know i see those bachman ez DCC units on ebay for about 60- $90 and they come with a loco that has a decoder. ? I dont know how good these are? i like i have said before will only be running two or three train , i really want the sound also. So, i dont know if i should go with the MRC prodigy express or advanced , or the NCE power cab? Everyone talks bad about the MRC stuff so? and no there isnt any hobby shops closer than 2 hours away and i think i am the only one in my town in this hobby ,so i can actually see a system in action.
Well, thanks trainfreek92 for your input if you have better info on the system you are running i’d be glad to hear it
Chris
Talon-I only have test run my DCC system with a anolog locomotive. If you only have 3 locos i would definetly buy a EZ-dcc system. It has all basic sound functions and is very user freindly and a decent price. Do some research to decide your DCC needs.
You fried the mainboard in it.
But you may not have done it by wiring it wrong…this is a known defect in the Control Master 20. The green light stays on and your loco will run at high speed and there is no response from the throttle control.
Mine went out 4 months ago…MRC will fix it if out of warranty for about 30 dollars. Then you will spend $16.00 to ship it to them.
I switched to the NCE PowerCab DCC starter set and haven’t looked back …
I recommend you buy the PowerCab over the bachmann system if you are serious about switching to DCC. Remember you will need to buy DCC decoders for your engines also and a basic decoder sells for $20 each.
Stay away from the MRC Prodigy Express…or anything MRC for that matter. (And before you all say it…I’ve used MRC for 30 years…I just don’t trust their new stuff anymore now.)
Minuteman200, that is is the info i was looking for. And about the master 20 gizmo… Yep, that is exactly what happened, light stays on train runs at mach and no response from the throttle[:(] piece of expensive junk!
As for the DCC system , to set it all straight , I am looking at the NCE , was looking at the express and advanced but like you have stated everyone says it is junk? Now i live in a town with no hobby shops nobody else in the hobby ( that i know of) and the closest big town is 2 hours away.
I have read up a little on each system but get mixed info.Oh, and before asked i have about 5 engines that i would have to put decoders in , a simple layout no switching, and would run at the most three trains at a time so…
that is the bottom line . A system is needed that is good dependable that can support sound ( i want my trains to have sound ) have the sound synchro and it doesnt cut it.
Well, Minuteman200, thanks again for the info ( you hit the nail on the head)[:D]
And trainfreek
Thanks for your input also, everything you give helps a ton
C.C.