You will have to play with the voltage you use to drive it, 12V is probably too much. It is more than strong enough to drive any model railroad turnout - including large scale.
REGARDLESS of how good or cheap it might be, it look’s to require MOUNTING KNOW HOW.
ATLAS’ Twin coil Selenoid’s mount on their turnout’s, and mounting aligmnment is assured w/o linkage, selling at dicount for $6.
RIX twin coils can be mounted under table with their Rax for an additional $3 plus machine’s.
TORTOISE mototorised machine’s are ‘Mounting friendly’.
HANKSCRAFT motor’s with RICK’S RAX II ($19) offer the best combination for
‘price is no object’ types’.
NOTE: I however, I am emphasizing ease of installation for the novices.
The door lock acuators have all the draw backs of Atlas snap switches and none of the advantages. The vibration when one of those things pops it could derail a train two feet away. I have seen them shake themselves loose rivited to a car door.
Cutting the voltage back might help smooth out the operaton but you will never get them to move slowly. The motor from railwayeng.com looks interesting. I might try it where I can’t use a Caboose Industry hand throw.
Now don’t everyone be too hard on switch machines that go THUNK! 'cause your prototype may have used them. Some interlockings used pneumatic machines that scare the daylights out of you if you’re standing next to them, giving only a fraction of a second of hiss before they bang over. Conversely, other locations used electric motors that slid over just like Tortoise’s.
In my experience, the Union Switch and Signals were the air machines and General Railway Signal made the electrics, but each might have also made the other kind. The SEPTA Market Street el in Philadelphia is an example of a pneumatic system, I think to this day. To make matters weirder, it had air-operated signals originally, believe it or not., a hundred years ago. Solenoid valves controlling air pistons to move semaphore blades.
So take your pick: switches that crawl or switches that go bang.
I’m concerned about how much current that motor would pull. Even with no load it might draw a couple of amps… quite a lot for a single switch machine. Unfortunately they don’t list any electrical specs beyond 12VDC.
Okay naysayers. Several years ago I bought a replacement door lock mechanism for a Ford Bronco. After I changed it out I fixed the old one. It was also motor driven rather than a solenoid. Made a very smooth switch machine. The momentary switch made it move just the right amount, I didn’t even need any fancy linkage like I thought I would, and the worm gear was self locking so it stayed there. The reason I never bought more was the Ford units were $80 plus and even brand X replacements were $29.95.
I have no idea what the current draw was. I ran all my switch machines and DC accessories thru an old Bachmann itty bitty blue power pack dedicated to that purpose. Never tripped anything out.
As always thank you. Do these have enough torque to drive 2 Atlas turnouts at once? I’m thinking about linking two together using Model A/C clevices and pushrods.
Could you rig two actuators together in parallel and not worry about current draw?
The advertisemant indicates that mounting hardware is included. Even with a motor driven rack and pinion, the momentary current requirement may exceed the capacity of many model train sized power packs even though it well within the current capacities of automotive applications.
Your typical model railroad switch machine comes with power routing contact points. Adding this feature to the lock plunger switch would probably negate any cost advantage. I agree with Don Gibson. This would not be a simple installation since the plunger would now have to connect to a slide switch as well as the the throwbar for the switch iteself.
If you use Atlas turnouts, you probably have some Atlas remotely operated surface mount switch machines. They can easily be converted to under table switch machines. I have a photo essay on how to do it on my website. Here’s a link:
[url=“http://intergate.com/~acoates149/SWM.html”]
They would probably handle a dozen HO scale Atlas turnouts. You’ll want some sort of spring for each - a piece of piano wire (aka music wire) with a zig-zag in it would be enough.
I just measured the current draw off mine, probably .5amp when moving but 2.5amp stalled. The ones I have, have a built in SPDT switch, which they use to power other door lock motors.