I have a couple of turnouts that seem to drag a bit when moving (Atlas #4s; Code 100 w/ Tortoise). I was thinking about sprinkling a bit of Kadee Grease 'Em on the slide bar. That’s the stuff that looks like (and probably is) powdered graphite.
Bad idea?
It is powdered graphite graphite. You can try it that way, but be sure that NONE of it gets on the rails. I had that happen once and three locomotives pulling in consist all lost traction at that point and would not move at all!
I’d check real carefully for some kind of obstruction, first. I don’t think there should be anything rubbing to the point where lubricating should make a difference. But I’ve been wrong before.
be sure your installation is free moving first of all.
a slight dab of light oil doesnt hurt, but Graphite is electricitly conductive,
but I reccommend zipit, since it helps stop oxidation.
and sinces its useful on railtops, its okay on the turnouts.
Be careful what lubricants you use as some may collect dirt and cause electrical contact issues. Just a thought on my part. I’m far from a lubricant expert. Good luck.
Beware, it isn’t always the turnout itself that is the cause
of sluggisch or incomplete point movement. Sometimes it is the
turnout motor or the link between slidebar and motor that is the cause. I discovered that twin coil turnout motors after years of operationcan can get sluggish. Don’t ask me why, maybe some coils got overheated and so
weakened the magnetic field.
DON’T USE GRAPHITE! Unless my brain is shorting out, it’s electrically conductive, and if it gets picked up by a loco can cause a short in the motor commutator (seems unlikely, but graphite migrates pretty easily from one part to another).
I suggest getting the LaBelle powdered teflon. Works as well as graphite, and is non-conductive to boot.
It makes a real purdy flash fire, too, if it gets near flame. Any sparking in the wrong place could cause your steamer to look just like the real thing! [:D]
Wow. Just looked on the Kadee tube. It is graphite. Wonder why they would recommend using it on couplers if it can cause these problems!!
Probably because of its purported use, and that the inherent risks that we modelers yak about here are hugely overblown. We insist, for example, on heavy wire all over the place to feed our rails, which would be appropriate for the Space Shuttle. NASA standards can be relaxed in our train rooms.
I know that graphite can cause sparks. If you have trouble starting a small engine, such as on your lawn mower, you can remove the spark plug and rub the tip of a pencil around the electrode tips. When it is well coated with graphite, reinsert to spec torque, and give that lanyard a sharp pull. You will get at least one really solid spark in there, and many’s the time a stubborn engine will fire right up.
Alternitive solution to sticky Tortises - Replace the activation wire with a larger diameter piano wire, bent to the same shape and installed in the same way. Sometimes you need to enlarge the hole just a little.
Make sure there are no obstructions in the hole that the Tortoise activation rod comes up through. Also, check that the Tortoise hasn’t slipped out of place and is causing the rod to rub on the side of the hole. You may need to elongate or enlarge the hole so the throw rod doesn’t hit the sides. I use a tapered drill bit and enlarge the bottom half of the hole to prevent troubles such as this.
I think because you’re applying just a tiny bit of it to a small, mostly enclosed space, and only at the ends of the equipment. If you pack the coupler pocket with graphite you’ll have the same issues, as it will spill out and get all over everything. But one small puff of the stuff in the pocket will coat the pivot of the coupler without leaving a lot extra to migrate elsewhere.
could it be that the fulcum bar on the tortoise has slipped ?
Thanks for all the good advice, everyone. I think it’s not a Tortoise issue. The turnout itself is stiff. It’s at the base of a mountain, and I suspect I allowed some diluted acrylic to spill onto it when I washed the mountain. I imagine that the real solution is to figure a way to clean the turnout. I thought the graphite might be a quick and dirty solution.
I’ve probably read 50 times on here to always cover your turnouts when your working close by with anything that could foul the works. [oops][
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Arthill’s idea about a stiffer wire from the Tortoise might even fix it over time. I use 0.032" diam. piano wire (search “music wire” at Walthers site). It throws the points harder and holds tighter.
Be careful when working around the layout. Murphy is watching, and will jump on each and every mistake you make.
Terry,
Does the .032" diameter piano wire fit through the hole okay in the Tortoise throwbar or does the hole need to be enlarged. Also, I wonder if the stiffer wire will cause the points of the turnouts to bend slightly if it pushes them againt the rail too hard?
I just don’t want to go through the trouble of switching to the stiffer wire just to cause another problem.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Mondo
Mondo,
It works fine and does not seem to bend the points, but I have only had this switch installed for about a year. As for the hole enlargment, yes, you will have to. I just heat the wire with a soldering iron and insert into smaller hole that melts larger… perfect fit… Alternatively, you could probably drill it, but this works fine for me.
Brian
One reason I use diluted white glue as a fixative for ballast, is that if I get some on the turnout pivot points, I can wash it out with water and start over. As far as lubing the points, why not use LaBelle’s light oil applied with a needle. Just enough to slightly wet the points should allow enough to migrate and keep the points moving.