I am just starting to get into model railroading (HO) and I want to upgrade the couplers on my locomotives and cars that I have and eventually have. A relative of mine (train collector for 35 yrs) highly recomended I did this upgrade with kadee couplers. My question is what # ,size , or model do I go with and will it differ if it is a loco,boxcar,tanker,or gondola. I know there was an article in one of the MR 2007 issues. I want other opinions and clarification in sizes. If any body has any input I would greatly appreciate a response.
I use the Kadee #5 for virtually everything. Also get a Kadee coupler height gauge and an NMRA standards gauge. They’ll save you from a lot of headaches.
[#ditto]
There really is no better coupler, even though some people might think differently.
#5s will work for about 95% of the applications. For the others, see
http://www.kadee.com/conv/holist.pdf
Mark
Whisker couplers by Kadee are also a good replacement. You don’t have to deal with a spring box, which doesn’t always fit.
I agree; KD #5 should cover most applications. The new wisker copulers are great.
JIM
I also find the #27 to help when the coupler is a hair too low with a 5. I keep hoping the 27 will come with ‘whiskers’. Unless they already do…
I’ve used both Bachmann EZ-Mate and McHenry and never had any problems. My issue with the Kadee couplers are all the very, very small parts.
The best suggestion is to get a few of each brand and try them out to see which works best in which application/car and go for that, mix and match is o.k. if hight etc all work out.
I’ve compared the Kadee #5 to the EZ-Mate and the McHenry and found the EZ-Mate and McHenry to be sadly lacking in the durability department. The Kadee is the better coupler, hands down.
I find Kadee to have a very good variety for most applications.
I notice that combining coupler brands causes reliability problems. I convert all new locos or wagons to Kadee couplers and I have hardly any coupler issues. I don’t like the McHenry, but each to their own and I’d say that if you decide McHenry make sure all your rollingstock is McHenry.
Regards,
Nige,
Kadee #5, it is simply the best.
Agreed and they now come in 25 packs, Kadee #14 .
I’ve mix all of them, maybe I’m luck on this one, never had any issues so far. My layout isn’t very big but the K #5’s are more difficult to install, prehaps the new wishker couple would be easier to use.
Whatever works!
As many have stated above, Kadee is the way to go. The #5 coupler has been around for YEARS and has become somewhat of a standard for couplers. The other number couplers have offset shanks, for high or low mounting platforms, and long or short shanks for certain applications. Use the Kadee link above for a good rundown on which number has what type shank combination. The 20 and 30 series are plastic couplers, when insulation is an issue, and the 40 series, like the #5, are metal, and the most durable.
No matter what brand you decide to use, the coupler height needs to be set right for reliable operation. Use the Kadee gauge to check and adjust the height. The gauge, #205, is only $4.50 and worth every penny for the headaches it will save you. The conversion chart Kadee publishes is a guideline and not gospel. Use the gauge for the final check, and adjust as needed.
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page120.htm
They also have a full line of accessories to help you do minor adjustments, like spacer washers, coupler box shims, etc. Check their website for more info.
On the E-ZMates, they’re probably OK if you’re planning on running short or light trains. I ran into problems with them that took awhile to figure out what was wrong. I can’t tell you how many times I checked the height and checked for vertical play. I finally saw a pair of them that were uncoupling, the shank actually was twisting, allowing the knuckles to separate. Needless to say, they were quickly replaced with Kadee 40 series.
The problem I have with them is they tend to stretch and twist when pulling long heavy trains. Metal doesn’t stretch or twist.
[#ditto]All my cars are weighted to NMRA standards which means a train of even moderate length can get pretty weighty. I too have noticed the Kadee-wanna-be couplers twist out of shape and distort under load. This is one of the reasons I don’t use them anymore. The main reason is because the spring mechanism (whether plastic whisker or metal spring) that holds the knuckle closed tends to fail easily. They’re just not very well made.
KD#5’s are really the best, and if you are super picky about detail and accuracy, KD#58’s are similar but closer to scale. The down side with KD#58 is that if your track isn’t laid really evenly, they are smaller and can uncouple more easily if there are height differences which are excentuated by uneven track. Even KD#5’s came uncoupled on a club modular layout when I was trying to run 89’ flat cars because the length of the car exagerated the height differents brought on by uneven track. Maybe the tank car type shelf couplers would be need for those!
Uh, small parts??? two couplers, extra knuckle springs which you store away, a brass centering spring unless yo
u are using whiskers, and the box, which most don’t use or need. So what small parts???
Bob
Yo Bob!
Jim here - I agree with you. KD#5 are easy to work with. Even plastic couplers can have the tiny spring and using an Xacto blade, it is easy to remount them. If anything, the Accurail couplers are harder because they are two piece - those come with all Atlas stuff.
You don’t know SMALL until you try assembling N scale MTL/Kadee couplers. An Optivisor and a 4X Ott Lite make it possible for me, but I don’t know how many extra springs are lurking under my workbench.