I have a question on the placement and best type of magnetic uncoupler to use.
I have three different styles of Kadee uncouplers on hand.
I am building my first layout, 4x9, and recently tested a Kadee magnetic uncoupler on a siding and found it works real good but it likes to hang onto my 0-6-0 switcher if I don’t keep the speed up. I placed it 8 inches into a three foot long siding with turnouts on each end. The magnet sits on top of the ties and rises 1/64 above the code 100 atlas track per the instructions.
Could you tell me if it should be mounted like in the middle of the siding further away from the turnout or ? It seems like you should not punch the throttle entering a turnout . Should I have used a different type of uncoupler?
Is there a rule of thumb you use?
I have a Kadee electro-magnetic uncoupler and one other which sits under the track to be installed.
Kadee electro-magnetic uncoupler is the best to use but the most expensive,the one that sits under the track is probley the beat all around,the one that goes in the track I think is the one most used,I use those the most, but you have to be carefull making sure thay are right,and use a coupler gage on your rolling stock if they are right, things should go fine.
Bob,
Welcome to the Forum. The Kadee delayed/ track mounted magnet , I believe is what you are using. With proper coupler height and “glad hand” position, you should never contact the magnet. If you don’t have a Kadee coupler height gauge, you need to purchase one. The gauge when set on the rails should slide over the magnet and the vertical pin/ dowel will end up flush w/ the top of the gauge when magnet height is correct. Generally w/ code 100 the magnet is very close when laid flat on the ties. Some housing/ scraping of the ties may be necessary to achieve the exact height. Proper coupler operation depends on all these factors, if the glad hand is too high, the excess space will cause poor uncoupling and probably no delay action at all. Too low and couple can drag as in your case.
As to the magnet placement, Place the magnet as close to the turnout leaving enough clearance from the uncoupled car and the adjacent track (the foul point).
Others can give the Kadee wedsite for add info that you may need.
Bob K.
The Kadee electromagnet is also one of the biggest pain in the posteriors to install, unless you are using code 100 or code 70 track. I gave up - now I use the small round magnets from Radio Shack. Properly aligned, a pair of them does a great job of opening Kadee couplers and allowing the delayed action t work - but ONLY at ne very specific spot - accidental uncouplings are pretty much a non-issue now
The ‘rare earth’ type will likely work from under the track, but I haven’t tried that yet. The cheapy ceramic ones are a fraction of the cost of the Kadee magnets.
Other places I just use bamboo skewers. That’s the cheapest option of all, and there’s NO chance for accidental uncoupling.
I use either the Kadee or Bachmann (cheaper) under the track magnet. I cut them in half to create a narrower area to uncouple. Its cheaper and cuts down on false uncouplings. If you use cork roadbed you can cut a hole in that. If I am are right on the plywood I use a router to make a hole.
I used my Kadee coupler height gauge and found that the magnet was sitting to high and the couplers were also low. A few thousandths can make a big difference.