I have track down and ballasted with magnetc uncoupler strips mounted under the track. I am a ways from running trains on this layout but have collected a mismatched assortment of used and new freight cars and finally got enough with functioning Kadee couplers to test the uncoupling function. NOT HAPPY! My understanding is that to uncouple a car you need to stop the coupler right over the magentic strip, then back slightly to realease it. Most of my cars uncouple automatically as they pass over the strip at slow speeds!! Some of them do it when pulled in one direction, but OK the other direction. Some (the one os the new cars) seem to work correctly most of the time. Is my problem just one of getting all new good Kadee couplers, or is there a type of coupler for this problem, or will cutting or bending up the pin help? I am suddenly nervous about it all, as there is no way to redo the uncoupler magets and they were the standard under-ballast type anyway. HELP!
Plord - I use the under track magnets with good success. Sometimes I will get a random uncouple but overall I am happy that I don’t have to get up off my butt to uncouple. My suggestion would be to purchase a Kadee coupler alignment tool or what ever it is called. It will tell you if the coupler is at the correct height and if the pin needs to be adj. Typically when I have a problem it is the coupler needing adj.
Terry[8D]
With properly adjusted couplers they will uncouple anytime there is slack or you stop and slack occurs. You will notice that as the train passes over a magnet the “glad hand” trip pin will move trying to uncouple. If there is any slack the knuckle is allowed to open. Smooth operation over magnets should eliminate any trouble uncoupling. This is why magnets should only be used on sidings and yards. Some have got to the point of never using this feature during ops and use the trusty BBQ skewer.
Bob K.
A couple of things to look at. If you have the Kadee height gauge check the pin height and make adjustments with a set of needle nose plyers either up or down. Also a trick with the 5/10s is to “burnish” the centering spring to eliminate any snags in the coupler movement. Then with the pocket reassembled, hit the pocket with a spray of powdered graphite and work it in by moving the coupler right to left for best lubrication, and freedom of movement.
The unplanned uncoupling may be the result of an uneven pull by the locomotive that is actually causing enough of a “studder” for the couplers to have enough slack to open. Wheel and track cleaning may help to provide better steady traction from the locomotive to minimize or eliminate the problem.
HTH.
Will
I bought electromagnet uncouplers for my main lines. That way, they will only be active when I want them to be, and I won’t have to watch where I stop trains. I use the permanent magnets for my yard and sidings, and they seem to work very well most of the time. Kadees, by the way, work much better than any of the “original” couplers.
Another item that will cause ‘false’ uncoupling: If the metal axles on the wheel sets are of a ‘ferris’ metal(like steel), a free rolling truck will ‘center’ itself, and cause the needed slack that will cause the car to uncouple.
A lot of folks use the magnetic uncoupling feature, and a lot also ‘manually’ uncouple using the ‘skewer stick’ method. I am in the later group and have cut off the Kadee ‘glad hands’ as they interfere with thing like snow plows, etc…
Jim
I agree it is the steel axles. Many years ago, a club I belonged to banned athearn and other cars with steel axles just for that reason. That may be why Accurail cars have all plastic wheel sets and why higher priced axles are other materials. Test all the axles with a magbet and change out the steel ones.
Also, if there is a slope in the track, the free rolling cars will start traveling faster than the engine, creating slack and allowing the uncoupling.
One thing I have done to reduce the number of false uncouplings is to replace the steel plate frequently used to add weight to a car with brass or other non-magnetic materials. This raises the center of gravity on the car but as long as your trackwork is relatively smooth and the trucks are properly adjusted, this does not cause a problem.
Good luck!
Tom
Thanks for the great tips. I let one of the used cars loose on its own and it stopped right over the magnet. Obviously steel trucks. I will replace with non-magnetic trucks and wheels but may also remove that uncoupler magnet. I would rather have the mainline trouble free and will hand-uncouple if it is required.