What are some good ideas for ways to transition from a mainline that is layed on cork to a siding which would be lower than the main line and not as good of shape? Does anyone have some good suggestions. My layout is on plywood atleast the track is. Any ideas would be great thanks. Scooter
Lay the cork and sand it down to the desired contour and level.
If y ou are in HO, you can use N roadbed. 1/8" masonite would also give you a lower profile.
For appearance, ties not fully ballasted or burried, ballast slope outside rails not even or not even there, weeds, dirt or cinders (steam or transition era) for ballast. Some folks use a lighter rail than they do for the mainline.
Good luck,
Richard
I have used the “n” scale cork roadbed for the siding and it works well. For the transition between the 2, I have used an appropriately cut piece of standard cedar shims. They are almost exactly 2% grade. Cut each end off where it matches the thickness of the desired level. You can carve the contour for the sides easily, or just cut the width so it matches the top side of the cork. What little extra ballast needed is minimal.
Here is a project I did for the NMRA Civil Certificate. You can see the small length of cedar shim between the mainline and the siding:
A veiw with the track laid on top:
And the final product:
The Bay Junction series video here shows how they did it with cork roadbed and a surform tool. I think it was number 8 or 9.
I’m in HO and have used Homabed for the mainline which is 1/4" thick and 1/8"Homabed for the sidings. Homabed also makes a shim that is like a ramp. It comes straight or with kerfs in it so you can curve it. It butts up against the mainline roadbed and you just cut it off on both ends where it is the same height as your main and siding. I really like Homabed; but it’s expensive. I have been moving towards cork but still like to use the Homabed shim as I don’t like to do much work with a transition by using a sanding block or surfoam tool, I now use N scale cork unsplit for the sidings. That’s just me I guess. The shipping adds up on the Homabed too. I had to order a number of shims to make it worthwhile. The Homabed comes beveled or with no bevels on the sides and kerfed or not kerfed. They also offer HO roadbed in 1/2" thickness. It really is not that sound deadening as some people say. I see no benefit except that it takes spikes well. They make it for other scales and switch blocks but I never used those or the sheets they offer as it gets cost prohibitive IMHO.
I use half inch ply as a base with one thickness of cork throughout (I cut my own out of floor tiles) but use cookie cutter technique with risers to adjust the individual track heights to suit.
I use layered masking tape to create a ramp between levels. Here’s an example of how I did it right through a turnout (never had a derailment there, either!). I used 1/4 inch wide masking tape.
Looking down on the ramp:
!(http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.com/images/Photos/Model Construction Photos/Progress Photos/2005/05-03-13 Starting Yard Ramp.jpg)
And more of a side view:
!(http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.com/images/Photos/Model Construction Photos/Progress Photos/2005/05-03-13 Yard Ramp Done.jpg)
I have used wooden shims, available at the big box stores, with success. Whatever you use, make sure that the slope is gentle enough that you don’t experience unwanted uncoupling, especially with long cars such as centerbeam and TOFC flat cars.
John Timm
howmus,
Love the track work. Did you hand lay the crossover? It looks great.[Y] Did this project include enough elements to qualify for the AP Civil Engineering certificate by itself, or were there other projects that also had to be included? I am thinking of getting back into the AP program.[8D]
I use standard issue cedar shims also. Available at practically any hardware store and cheap as dirt.
Scooter,There are several ways in doing that.
Here’s my solution.
I use cardboard or extra balsa wood( trim to fit sloop) for the transition.