I’ve got four locos (2 Tycos and 2 Athearn) that haven’t run in about twenty five years. Are there any online tutorials or guides on cleaning/lubricating/overhauling the motor and gears?
I’ve already cleaned up the wheels and gotten them to run on a test track–just want to give 'em a tune-up before I put them into service.
Thanks!
If you are the least bit mechanically inclined, cleaning and lub are pretty simple and straight forward. The Athearns are very easy, start with them. Once you’ve taken the shell off you should be able to see what needs doing. I use a kit box to place loose parts in. You need to get to the gears in both trucks. The trucks are held together with three snap keepers, one on the bottom and two on the top. One of the top ones also keep the truck mounted to the frame. After these keepers are removed the trucks simply come apart. Clean the gears and other parts in warm soapy water. Re-assemble the trucks after cleaning. I use white teflon grease which is a powder to lub.
A short coming of the Athearn locos are the phosphor bronze electrical connectors. I replace these with wire, soldered to a shortened motor brush contact and soldered to the steel tab which the connector strip used to make contact with on the trucks. I also wire the negative circuit. However, this is more complicated due to a lack of space on the negative side of the truck frame.
Just go slow and make notes, if you feel the need!
[8D]
First you’ll probably need supplies, from the local hobby shop.
(a) 4 alligator clips and a spool of 2 conductor #14 wire
(b) medium weight (plastic compatible) oil – e.g. Labelle
(c) heavy weight ditto
(d) a “bright boy” (abrasive cleaning pad)
(e) a pack of Athearn motor brushes and a pack of springs
(f) an NMRA template for your scale – HO ?
[8D]
Then (from the household) liberate a bulb baster (for blowing), an old toothbrush, a flat toothpick and an old cotton towel.
[:)]
Then for the Athearn (I’m not cognizant of precise details on a Tyco model);
(i) remove the body shell and set aside (clean up using toothbrush, spit & towel)
(ii) remove all dust, blow out all cavities, brush out between wheels and trucks. bru***ruck sides.
(iii)make up and attach your “jumper wires” between your controller and the model (one on top clip and one on main frame)
(iv) run the motor, clean the motor commutator and tires & flanges, with the bright boy. When stopped, clean the horizontal joints in the commutator with the toothpick
(v) fold the towel as a cushion/parts catcher on your work bench, now check the brushes (remove strip clipped over motor etc.) if OK; simply lube both ends of springs and replace. Also lightly lube contacts between strips and clips.
(vi) lightly lube bearings on either side of motor and on both gear towers, then all joints along each drive shaft
(vii)switch to heavy oil and lube inside gear towers (it shouldn’t be necessary to dismantle) and lube each axle behind each wheel, then between contact and truck – ensure that those (phosphor/bronze) contacts are loose and move easily on the axle
(viii) run motor again, wipe up any sprayed oil, check that your wheel flanges are at the correct gauge and recheck the cleanliness of your commutator
(ix) replace bodyshell and test on the track.
(x) maintenance completed !!
[:D]
Enjoy and Happy Xmas !!
[:D]
I found a GREAT site for taking care of your Athearn engines. Check out
http://www.rrdepot.com/model/articles/athearnlocos.php
Hope that helps.
Jim
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A standard 6ft two 18 guage conductor extension cord will work just as well, cut the plug and socket off each end, and install the 'gator clips.
use a plastic compatible grease instead, Labelle offers one.
an old fasion ink eraser works just as well.
clean the shell with Dawn or equivalent, and lots of water.
[quote]
QUOTE:
(ii) remove all dust, blow out all cavities, brush out between wheels and trucks. bru***ruck sides.
(iii)make up and attach your “jumper wires” between your controller and the model (one on top clip and one on main frame)
(iv) run the motor, clean the motor commutator and tires & flanges, with the bright boy. When stopped, clean the horizontal joints in the commutator with the toothpick
(v) fold the towel as a cushion/parts catcher on your work bench, now check the brushes (remove strip clipped over motor etc.) if OK; simply lube both ends of springs and replace. Also lightly lube contacts between strips and clips.
(vi) lightly lube bearings on either side of motor and on both gear towers, then all joints
Regarding the Tyco units; please tell us the particular model, and may be able to assist. Most of thier diesels are riveted together, and not intended to be serviced.
Get a Life – Nigel
Thanks for all the tips. That Athearn web page is great.
Everybody has slightly different methods–that’s fine. Main thing is to understand what you’re trying to accomplish and do it the way that makes sense to you.
The Tyco models are an F-9 (1976) and a GP-20 (1979). The F-9 has the power-torque motor, and I actually still have the sheet that came with the layout set explaining where to lube (recommends 3-in-1 oil, doesn’t show how to clean gears though). The GP-20 looks like it is pretty much sealed at the factory, but there are a couple holes where you can see the gears. I guess I can just drop a little oil in there.
Thanks