Over the years I bought many used turnouts on E-Bay and tain shows that had snap switch on them. I finally got tired of throwing them by hand (174 SQ Ft Layout) and started installing them.
I have a few that seem stuck when tested. If I move the lever back and forth they will work, then stick again? Maybe a drop of oil? I have had them for ten years and who knows how old they really are.
Any other tip besides buying the slow motion ones?
Thanks is advances, Ken
I haven’t had any problem like you describe but I do lube the hinge points occasionally with a drop of CRC 2-26. I only have one slow motion switch machine and it operates 4 turnouts in my double crossover. I have 20 under layout Atlas switch machines that work pretty good, most have a long through arm and some are marginal in operation. If they haven’t been operated in awhile I reset their position just incase.
Mel
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
Bakersfield, California
Mel, if you are talking about the hinge point on the turn out, the ones I am testing are not hooked up yet.
Thanks for the answer.
Cuda Ken
LION woulda thunk of graphite instead of oil. Unless of course you use Whal oil or toher highly conductive oil.
LION uses lotsa old switches, it he the only kind he has… Care and maintenance, and they work just fine.
LION likes his tortoise machines. They are so easy to install and so forgiving of big clumsy hands, and they JUST WORK. Layout of LION has a common ground bus around the entire layout (remind me to check the auto supply shops for a new fuse panel) so each tortoise is enevrated via one single conductor, either +12 v dc (divert) or -12 v dc (normal). With 14 miles of track the price of wire counts!
ROAR
Ken.
Like LION said, use graphite. Just make sure the graphite is plastic compatible otherwise the switches will stick for good (don’t ask how I know this). Oil will only attract dirt and ballast which will foul the switches again.
Hmmm… About 30 years ago I bought some Kadee Graphite, it came in a plastic tube. About five years ago, I went to pick up this tube of graphite and the plastic tube disentegrated in my fingers. I chalked that up to bad tube plastic, and not the quality of the graphite contained therein.
ROAR
Hello all,
If I’m understanding you, the problem with the Snap Switch is the Remote Switch Machine and not the actual turnout.
If the Remote Switch Machine is intermittent the problem is most likely in the coil.
On page 17 of The Complete Atlas Wiring Book, Atlas Model Railroad Co., Inc., it describes the switch machines:
“Most switch machines are of the two-coil solenoid type, such as show in Figure 3-6.” There is a diagram of the switch machine on the same page along with a schematic of the coils.
In my experience with these devices, once the windings of the solenoid have been damaged, either physically or by dirt, repairing (or cleaning them) is possible but not worth the time and effort versus replacing the entire switch machine.
Hope this helps.
Hi, Ken
From what I’m reading here you are asking about the actual Atlas twin coil switch machine.
If I recall correctly, the older ones screwed on to the snap-switch and the newer ones clip on. Seems to me the older ones were riveted closed and were a pain to open and the newer ones were snap together.
In either case DO NOT put any graphite in the twin-coil mechanism. The graphite is conductive and eventually you will have high resistance and heat and a burned out coil.
I would place a few drops of the CRC 6-26 into the slot where the slide is then wipe away as much as you can with a paper towel. If you can carefully open them all you want to do is clean the off-set slider that connects the armature to the actuating pivot. Once any dust and gunk is cleaned out they should move freely without any additional lube.
Good Luck, Ed
I would have thought graphite, being a form of carbon, would be unreactive. However this article says otherwise. http://machinedesign.com/mechanical-drives/engineering-essentials-lubrication-tips-plastic-gears-and-more-part-2
I wonder how Kadee gets away with it?
I’m sorry I missed the point. If the switch machines are held together with rivets toss them. If they look like these you can open them up with a small tip screwdriver.
This is the inside, it isn’t a complex mechanism.
Gets away with what? They put the stuff on the couplers and in the coupler boxes. No lektricity there.
ROAR
The dissolving plastic problem. Maybe the coupler boxes are delrin?
in the days of normal ignitions with removable dist. caps, a pencil line would cause a rough running engine, inside between 2 plug wires
Well Thank You all for the great answers!
So No Graphite? Or just keep the Graphite away from the coils? I did open one today that was dead, it was pretty simple. Where would I pick up Graphite anyway if I need some? Is this the same stuff I have read about to make wheels more free wheeling?
Ed Well I just wanted let you know I am running the Bell of that B&O SD 7 I got from you! I think I am up to around 11 B&O engines now.
Going to cheat on this one, I am running to my LHS (K-10 Model Train’s) Thursday and buy a new one. But, I still have around 30 of the used ones and about 40 more turnouts to go!
Thanks again for your time folks.
Cuda Ken
[Y] [Y] [Y]
Glad to hear that, Ken! How are you folks surviving the heat wave [W] in your neck of the woods?? Hope things cool off for you soon!
That’s a great demonstration by Mel! As long as everything is clean in there and not distorted you shouldn’t need any lubricant in there.
You may want to look into making a capicitor discharge power supply for your twin-coils. They help snap the switch machine then once discharged they will keep the coil from burning out if power is applied for too long.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/CDPSU.html
(Plan B above is a good choice) Or a Circuitron Snapper
http://www.circuitron.com/index_files/ins/800-5303ins.pdf
Regards, Ed
The CRC 2-26 is also a lubricant.
Also LaBelle 134 Teflon Lubricating Powder works much better than the Kadee Graphite. You can also use the powder on the solenoid shaft, but if You clean it with the CRC, it should not be necessary. If You are encountering problems with twin coil machines of any type…they have been subjected to extreme hot/cold conditions, like a sweat, which will cause the sliding shaft area to slightly corode, causing a binding in the core. There will be miniscule particles, like tiny pitts on the shaft.
Very easy to fix…as long as the windings are not damaged.
Take Care! [:D]
Frank
Just tought I let you folks know I replaced the motor and it is still dead! [banghead] I knew I should have tested for currnet first!
Cannot fix stupid.
Ken
You are going to have to give us more details. Do the points move freely? Does the little stub sticking out of the switch machine move freely? Does the throw bar attached to the point rails move freely? Are the moving rails dragging on the ties? Are the hinge points binding? What happens when you apply power to the coils of the solenoid?
[:)] Hey
The best thing you can do for the twin coil machines is use a capicitor discharge system. They need that jolt of power. I think mine puts out about 30V for a split second and then stops in case the button sticks. I built it for less than $10.
If there is power to the machine, and the common wire is to the center screw,with the other two wires attached to the outer screws every thing should work.
Good luck.
Lee
Ken,
Just remember that the Atlas switch machines require 16v-18v AC at least 25watts (2amps) to work properly, 1amp minimun at the least. You can test them when they are not installed, by connecting one wire from Your AC power to the center lug on the machine and the other wire just slightly touch the other two lugs on the machine, one at a time and see if coil moves back and forth…don’t hold wire on machine long or it will burn it out.
Take Care![:D]
Frank