I am going from tubular track to fas track and think I have figured seemingly the only way to construct an insulated track section for accessories like the gate crossing; however I thought I would see if anyone has had experience with this. I know that the specialized pieces can be purchased but I want to hold down costs.
Turn the track over.
Bend the tabs holding the rails to the metal splices that bridge the two outter rails.
Remove the splices
Remove the pins from the outer rail you want to issolate and remove the pins from the center rail to make an insulated section.
Bend the tabs holding the rails to the bed back into place.
Do this ONLY for the outter most sections of track you want to insulate. Keep in mind you will also need to remove the 1/2 pin from the other connecting section as well.
There are other ways of doing this, but they cause more ‘permanent’ damage to the track because you have to cut the rails, and cutting the rails could cause them to become deformed.
I think Brent’s basically got it. To operate a gate crossing (semaphore) I would:
-
remove the shorting bar that connects the two outer rails under the roadbed
-
Remove the pin (singular) from the outer rail you intend to isolate and use as your control rail.
-
remove the pin from the adjoining section of track that would normally connect with your now isolated rail.
Center rails should need no modifications.
It is best when removing the pins from outer rails if you bend all the tabs underneath your rail so they are parallel and straight up and down. then the entire length of rail can be pulled up off the road bed so you can lift up and remove the pin. If you cheat and only unbend the tabs at the end you’re working on you’ll bend or kink the rail and you won’t be able to unkink it very easily.
If you buy the special sections you actually get a 10" straight already isolated and two 5" straights with cuts made in the middle of one of the outer rails on each section. Once you have those two 5" sections you’re able to put any number of isolated sections (easily made by performing step #1 above, even on curves) between them for control sections of any length you need. Works great.
Roland
Thanks Roland. You are correct about the center rail. What you describe it what I tried but removing the pin was unsuccesful so I cut it as a last resort. It may be that because I only removed 2 tabs, rather than all of them along the entire rail, that the rail would’nt come loose to remove the pin.
Instead of removing the pins, I just used a dremel tool and cut the rail. Seemed to work fine, but you do need to cut down to the track bed, which for me was not an issue.
Dennis
Dremel tool is what I used also. Know anything about soldering to fas track-it doesn’t seem to work-is it aluminum? I tried bending 16 ga wire and pushing it between the metal tabs and the plastic underneath but I don’t like the hold.
Track is tin plated steel, same as what was used on Standard O. I’ve had no problems soldering to it.
This web reference describes creating isolated outside-rail track blocks with Lionel Fastrack:
That’s a great reference on the web-thanks. Doesn’t say what kind of solder/flux? Has anyone been able to purchase the very small female connectors to avoid soldering. I went to Radio Shack and they didn’t have them.