While waiting on some Mason Bogie parts I have decided on using the left over parts to build a small side tank industrial tank engine. Took the two cab sections and mated them together and glued the two pieces of leftover roofs together. Found the side tanks from a LGB 2017 engine that came off of Rosy, cut off the tab and started filling in some of the holes. Found that the width of the two coupled with a 1" PVC coupling was the same width as the cab. Added the wood bunker from the original Lionel 0-6-0 to the back and shortened a left over frame from a previous butcher job after modifying it to match the motor housing of a newer 2017 block. Still working on a water filler saddle for the side tanks and but did come across a smoke box front of a 2010 which I added to a plastic hole plug and fits nicely into the 3/4" coupling, Added the fire box left over from the sacrificed Spreewald (Mason Bogie drive) and it starting to com together. Today I added rivet detail to the 2 side tanks and gave a light coat of primer. Rivets are actually 1/2 round 2 mm plastic beads glued to the side of the tanks, time consuming but not near as bad as individual holes for each rivet. Still have to find a motor for the motor block as I bought it without but it was new and unused and in great shape and has all the looks of American valving. Think I’ll call this engine “old Joe” will post more as the build moves along.
Got a little done on Old Joe, first set of rivets for the boiler, cut the boiler to the to be length, finished the smoke box door, was able to find a rectangle box for the water reservoir and caped it with the hatch cover from an old Bachmann tender. The reservoir will feed the side tanks via some rubber tubing, actually the outer sheath from an electrical cord, this will allow the engine to take on water from the water tank rather than filling each tank separately via a hose. Started size fitting the front bolster and step cowcatcher, I have a LGB cow catcher I could use but being as this suppose to be a small industrial engine I opted for the former. Was able to stumble across so old plastruct vinyl cover wire and a groved bracket to mount it with so I made some air piping for under one of the running boards. No the smoke stack isn’t going to be square just trying to get an idea on height and that tubing was handy. Found the top to the steam dome just have to cut it to size. Sort of on off building this week trying to get the house ready for guest for thanksgiving of which there will be some little ones, so thought is out of site out of mind, just hope I can remember where I have hidden stuff after wards, more to com, Bill
Moving along, decided I would try the rust look using rock salt, didn’t quite go like the youtube but good enough. Used an oil base rattle can and think it would have probably worked better using acrylic air brush paint. The problem I had with the oil base was it stuck down the salt too well and wound out having to soak it in water for about 1/2 day and still had to scrape some of it off but it gave the result I was looking for so live and learn, using individual rivets, although a pain to install worked out well , had bought some self stick ones thinking I could bypass the gluing step but that didn’t work out either. Found that the beads wouldn’t come off the shipping paper and left gooey mess around them and found it very hard to position correctly. Got a little paint on the cab and trying to get it to look like old faded wood, and still have a ways to go. Will up date when I get something else done, Bill
Seeing this come together and gaining a few more pointers was a good way to start the holiday! Happy Thanksgiving to you, yours, and all those on this site! We are off to the beach! Eric
P.S. Kid-zilla said, “I want that little train!” You have another big fan!
There are people up north in the mainland thinking bad thoughts about you right now, but being as I’m not one of them Happy Thanksgiving from sunny Florida @ 80 degrees, surf’s up, aloha!!!
still piddling with Old Joe, been cold here in central Florida east coast and being as my work area is on an open porch I haven gotten a lot done, but things that I have done are time consuming taking planning and thought. Finally figured out how to secure the lead weight in the engine and at the same time secure the boiler to the frame and that was using a furniture fitting that screws into wood an provides machine screw threads in the middle. Put it in the hole that the factory smoke stack went thru and will be held in place with a 1/4 X 20 SS bolt. Then at the same time I secured the cab with 2/56 screws on either side of the side cab openings after building up the area with styrene, in the picture that are a bright silver but will be changing them out for black hex head ones. Found some old steps from a LGB European coach and added them to the cab under the doors openings. The wood bunker is clipped on to the back of the cab and is secured from underneath with screws just like the factory one was so the cab will hold the rear of the boiler and the SS screw will hold the front. Little inside work, I painted on the wood load to give it more of a real appearance and it came out pretty good also dabbed some on the cab to give it a faded wood look. Think I’m going to try some cloth on the cab roof to give it a canvas look. Still have the side tanks to secure and a front bolster with coupler and coupler in the rear, more to come, Bill
Got a little more done, working on the smoke stack, I wanted something that was whimsical and cute, so like a lot on my engines I use the smoke stack for a handle, with this in mind I decided on using a brass tube, needing a finishing touch for the stack I found a 3/8" flare nut that was almost the same size that I could tap to the 1/8" pipe thread and screw on the top. Once I got it shaped by chucking it up in a drill and attacking the grinder with it I had something that looked ok but was too big so I decided on cutting it down to size by again chucking it up in the drill and then attacking a hacksaw blade the I secured in a vice. After re taping the messed up threads I got it secured on, shortened the threads so it didn’t stick out the top and then counter sunk the center to give it a tapered look. Little coat of silver paint and now just waiting to weather it, happy with the out come, I know it’s not scale but think it is just the right touch to bring Old Joe to life
Little more done today, got the cribbing for the wood box finished, painted and installed, but most the time was spent on figuring type, location and mounting of the front coupler. Luckily I found in my collection of Kadee couplers a centerset short gear box # 835 couple which enabled me to mount it to a wood beam and both secured to a small flat protruding plate that is on 2010 engines, there were some angled supports molded in underneath which I had to remove but a sharp chisel made short work of them. The wood beam is actually PVC board that I had ripped sometime ago to make supports for my water tower. The wantabe cow catcher is one left over from a Bachmann Big hauler tender that has excellent forgiveness in the crash department and is great for bending without breakage and gives the build the appearance of a working yard engine. I then secured every thing with 2/56 screws and nuts which can be seen in the picture as silvery dots but will get covered with grimy paint soon. Still trying to find a suitable material to make my canvas roof with, suggestion are welcome. Will post when further achievements are made, Bill
Bill, It looks better each post! As for the canvas roof, I used to use painted tissue paper for tarps and flags and stuff back when I did 1/32 military models. I usually dipped the tissue paper in a thin whtie glue solution so it would have some mass to get it to drape over the model. As the glue hardened, it “froze” it in place but did not hide the texture. Those were for static display, so it might not work in this application. It would be a cheap experiment!
Failing that, you might remember I used a stained t-shirt to represent a cloth cover for the “cab” of my double-hulled sailing locomotive.
The stain was actually the stuff we used to tint our concrete. The material might be too heavy in appearance for your application (scale was hardly at the topmost of our minds in this project!), but, again, it might be worth a few strips of old T-shirt and some thinned paint to see if it could work for you.
After several good suggestions from several readers, I found some material that my wife had that had a nice weave and was thin enough to show the groves that I had scribed in the top. Selecting a suitable sized piece I glued it with some titebond glue and alowed to dry. I was going to dye the material with coffee or tea but it had a print on it so I wound up painting it and will probably put some tar patches on it where a ember from the stack landed and caused a burn hole. still more to come, Bill
Adding details to engine, got air piping along with the air compressor attached to the starboard side water tank + a bell attached to the vertical front of the engine cab and on the port side a air tank, tied the air piping and the air tank together with a pine made from metal wire covered vinyl, also added some hand rails on top of the water tanks for workers that came off and old aristo 0-4-0. Ran across a couple of head lights that I could incorporate into the engine but initially I was not going to put any headlights because it was thought engine only worked during the day, still thinking about that. Also started weathering the engine but a lot left to do, more to come, Bill. Since originally posting I have come to understand that by law the must have a head light so I guess I just have to pick a style.
No the smoke stack isn’t going to be square just trying to get an idea on height and that tubing was handy. Found the top to the steam dome just have to cut it to size. Sort of on off building this week trying to get the house ready for guest for thanksgiving of which there will be some little ones, so thought is out of site out of mind, just hope I can remember where I have hidden stuff after wards, more to com, Bill
