I have an SW1500 that I want to paint black with some yellow in places. I am using paint masking tape (the blue stuff) to mask off the black so that I can paint the yellow areas. My problem is in handling the tape. It seems that when the tape gets into a corner it doesn’t want to stick. It also is hard to form around corners, like around the base of the front where it meets the walk platform and in the steps. Any advice on how to better handle the tape so that I can get a well sealed mask?
First, you need a better quality masking tape for model work. The tape you’re describing is designed for a wall surface. Go to an automotive store and buy the masking tape that’s called something like “Fine Line.” When putting it on, press it into inside corners with a blunt screwdriver tip. Going over rivets, hinges, etc. press it over them with a pencil eraser. In fact, it will give you the best line if you press down the whole edge with an eraser. Last, don’t try to use old tape. It will dry out from the outer edges of the roll and this is where you need the best adhesion.
When painting, do the lightest color first over the entire body, allow to fully dry (several days at least), then mask and paint the darker color.
One of my oddball hints: if you’re painting a plastic body, for best drying, once it’s dry to the touch, sit it on top of your television. The one in our house is constantly on, and has a low level heat that will help complete the drying safely.
It’s funny you should mention utilizing the heat from the TV. Although ours is not on all that much, during the summer our dehumidifier is - and the backside of the humidifier is where the filtered exhaust fan is located. I place my drying parts up high enough so that they are in the path of the dehumidifier’s exhaust and leave them there for a few hours. Works great…
Thanks, Tom, for the advice: I did it all wrong, especially about the lighter color first, then the darker color. I am going to print your reply, as it is very valueable information. I apprecviate all the help!
Great idea about using the TV to aid in drying - never thought about that. There is one other advantage. By putting an in-progress model on the TV I can be reminded to get off my duff and finish a project every time I turn into a couch potato.
The 3m fine line tape is the best I’ve found. Some homemade burnishing sticks from stripwood and styrene can also help for those tricky spots.
One tip for storing and use of the tape. Slice the plastic bag open to store and place it in a ziplock baggie. When using the tape- never lay it on anything but the plastic. The sticky sides will pick up crap from the workbench and make a mess of the parting line for paint.
And as with any other masking or drafting tape, special cuts and smaller strips can be done on a clean piece of glass. I handle small pieces w/ Xacto blade and tweezers.
The rather expensive Fineline tape (1/4") is only used for masking the parting lines. Mask the rest of the model in standard masking tape. A roll of this tape will last you many years- another reason to store it properly. It will start to dry out if not.
When stripping always pull at a sharp angle for the cleanest line.
“One of my oddball hints: if you’re painting a plastic body, for best drying, once it’s dry to the touch, sit it on top of your television. The one in our house is constantly on, and has a low level heat that will help complete the drying safely.”
The part about waiting for the paint to dry to the touch bears repeating. A TV, because of the electrical charges needed to produce a picture, is a dust magnet. If your model is not dry when you put it on the TV, you’ll find yourself doing some serious sanding.
The 3M Fineline tape is usually found at automotive paint suppliers and some auto parts stores.
It is used in auto painting to do exactly the same thing we want to use it for. Being thin vinyl, it can be curved to some degree and will mold and shape over irregular spots and seams. I don’t know all the widths it comes in, but I use 1/8 and 1/4".
Micromark may sell a version of this, as the one you refer to, but I don’t know if it works the same.
The 3m fine line tape is the best I’ve found. Some homemade burnishing sticks from stripwood and styrene can also help for those tricky spots.
One tip for storing and use of the tape. Slice the plastic bag open to store and place it in a ziplock baggie. When using the tape- never lay it on anything but the plastic. The sticky sides will pick up crap from the workbench and make a mess of the parting line for paint.
And as with any other masking or drafting tape, special cuts and smaller strips can be done on a clean piece of glass. I handle small pieces w/ Xacto blade and tweezers.
The rather expensive Fineline tape (1/4") is only used for masking the parting lines. Mask the rest of the model in standard masking tape. A roll of this tape will last you many years- another reason to store it properly. It will start to dry out if not.
When stripping always pull at a sharp angle for the cleanest lin
A good point Ray, although my thoughts were more on the line of someone touching it. As someone else pointed out, this should work with any electrical/electronic appliance that produces a low heat as a side effect of operation. Avoid any appliance that is designed to produce heat as it may get hot enough to soften or even melt the plastic.
While the TV or other appliance is a good idea for speeding up drying time, the dust attracted by the TV or blow out by a fan on an appliance can cause problems. I’ve been using a food dehydrator. It made to produce a constant, low temperature air flow that rises up through multiple drying trays. These is a lid to help keep out dust, but the rise hot air works well on its own. The temperature produce is warm, but not enough to melt plastic. I ‘baked’ a brass caboose in it overnight. It was ‘hot’ to the touch, but not too hot to handle.
While I would agree with that if the paint were still very wet, if you wait till the painted object(s) is “skin” dry, then the dust doesn’t become an issue because there is nothing for it to stick to. When I paint something, it’s in thin enough layers that the paint is almost dry to the touch a few minutes after appliciation.