Max benchwork width...free standing

I model HO scale and have a room almost complete, ready to start the benchwork.

My track plan is an around-the-room style, two levels. First level is 30 to 36" wide. My question is my plan is designed with a 20 to 24" wide second level. I plan on using 1x4’s -16" OC, grid type construction method with glued and screwed joints, a 1/4" plywood top with 1" foam glued on top of the plywood. If I secure this benchwork to the wall studs usin screws, will it support the layout. There will be a minimum amount of structures and senery on this level, mostly yard trackage.

Thanks

RF&PRR

I would use some L brackets for support. As it stands, it will droop over time.

David B

Another possibility is to use suspension wires from the ceiling, solidly anchored to rafters or floor joists overhead. I’ve seen thin wires coming out of thick smokestacks, and even tall trees that joined platform to ceiling. Just don’t put them right at the fascia edge where they would be too obvious to ignore.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

My layout has areas that extend 30" from the wall, with no legs. I used home-made brackets fabricated from 2X2 and 1X3’s. On a 25’ wall, only two of these brackets hold up the railroad, around the corner, two more support a 20’ run. The spread out to 6’ 6" at the ends(supported by another bracket). The layout has been up since 1987 and I can climb onto it. Large steel ‘L’ brackets you get from HD or Lowes will also work.

Jim

Generally, the maximum recommended “reach depth” is 30 inches. Even that is a stretch, literally, for most of us. Beyond that, it’s very hard to reach in and actually do work, like laying track or working on scenery. Once the layout is built, fixing derailments that far from the edge can be a real problem with foreground scenery in the way.

As for the cantilevered second deck, I would also recommend some additional support. The wood itself will need it, and you’d be surprised how much heavier a layout gets when you start putting locomotives and rolling stock on it.

In consideration of all that you will invest into this project, it would be a shame to have it depend on some crossed fingers and good will from some higher authority. Or, to meet its demise at the hands of an inexperienced guest who doesn’t know better and whom you hadn’t yet briefed adequately.

There have been times when I reached out to my nearest bit of benchwork with considerable urgency when in need of a steadying object. Good thing mine is built very solidly, and is also heavy as a series of bolted-together 40" X 90" module frames in a box formation.

If you decide to forego some sort of robust support for anything flat and thin, and long, you should work out something I don’t yet know about that will allow you to reach out and use it forcefully to save yourself from a nasty tumble on that one rare occasion, and not destroy it in the process.

My [2c]

First off keep in mind the higher off the floor your bench work is the shorter your reach will be. I have mine 48" off the floor and can reach the back of the wall on the 24" wide section but can not any where else. If you elevate track off the bench work height same applies. I would do a little testing first. Like tape up a piece of 30" wide cardboard and elevate it to different heights and see if you can reach the back. I know they say not to go too wide but I believe go as wide as you possibly can so you can fit more in a given area. just because your bench work is lets say 40" wide that doesn’t mena you need to put track all the way in the back. keep the track up front and use the extra space for scenery structures etc. We did thios on a friends layout and used the extra width for hidden staging.

I like 48" for several reasons first being the closer to eye level the trains are the more realist they look. I want to see trains not roof tops. but one of the biggest advantages is being able to sit in a chair and wheel myself under the layout and do wiring etc. without killing my back.

If I am understanding you correctly your tryign to make it sort of free standing no legs showing correct. Well it’s a bit of work but it can be done. We added a second level to my friends layout and he didn’t want legs or support post obstructing the view of level 1. So I fabricated some steel brackets in my shop

have you ever seen those free standing shelves they sell in Lowes and Home Depot. the one that look like their floating in mid air. I copied their design but made it heavier. I took a 1/16" steel plate and welded 3/4" pipe to it. at a right angle. So when you attache the flat plate to the wall the pipes are sticking out horizontally. I place them ever 16" He made his bench work box out of 1x4 pine and drilled a 3/4" through hole on the back side, and doubled up the 1x4 on the front of the box drilling a 3/4" through hole only through the first 1x4 on the bottom of each hole we dr

Thanks for the replies!

Yes, I wish the second level to be free standing (with no legs or other obstructions of the first level or wire supports, just bolted to the wall studs). I prefer not to use angle brackets as they will be seen from the first level making the backdrop tacky looking.

What would the max width be using 1x4’s inwhich I would not need any brackets, wire cables to the ceiling, or leg supports?

Thanks,

RF&PRR

Thats really a question for someone with an engineering degree I guess. I definitely would screw and glue the 1x4 structure together for added strength. I’m gonna take a wild guess and say no wider then 24" but it’s honestly a crap shoot. After we built my friends set up I had considered making one for myself whihc I may do when I build a section on the back wall of the train room but instead of using pipe flanges so no welding or cutting would be involved just screw it all together. I have seen where a guy built his bench work out of 3/4" plywood and attached it directly to the wall studs before he sheet rocked. Attaching to the side of the stud if you have the option will definitely increase the strength but like I said it’s more of an engineering question. All I could suggest is build a small test section say 2’x2’ and pile some weight on to it and see how much before it moves. A lot better you find out that way then have your top section of the layout come crashing down onto the lower section.