MDC HOn3 Outside Frame 2-8-0 Regear

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

I see that Northwest Shortline has a regear set for this engine. The potential victim, I mean model, appears to pre-date the drawings shown on the HOSeeker site, so I think I know which of the two regear sets NWSL offers to pick (the pre-1998 set).

Reading NWSL’s information, it seems that they are saying that it is not worthwhile to change out the motor as the open frame motor that come with the model has characteristics that are on par with any replacement. I did take the boiler off the engine frame and it is an open frame motor, made in Japan.

I’m curious if anyone has purchased/installed the regear set, and if it made any noticeable improvement to the model’s operation. Also, did you retain the original motor or change it out.

Thanks

2

I installed one of these in a 1990-vintage Outside Frame 2-8-0, and it made a world of difference. that little beastie purrs now, even with the open frame motor…yes, I did keep the original motor, and it’s a good…no, it’s an EXCELLENT runner.

I also powered one of their 3-in-1 “Plantation Locomotive” kits using the version which includes the Sagami motor. I honestly can’t tell a difference in operating characteristics between the two.

3

Okay good to know. At least one vote in favor.

Thanks

4

I have used the NWSL re-gear set with a Sagami motor with flywheel and excellent results. The re-gear I think gives 45 to 1 reduction. I have also used the 70 to 1 with flywheel motor in a switcher but you need a quiet motor with the motor frame isolated from the loco frame with a goop type motor mount. The motor runs at a higher RPM with this arraignment.

At the time I did this I believe a lot of the steamers where around 36 to 1 gear reduction.

Rich

5

I built one and didn’t change a thing, it purrs. I did replace the main gear with another by the same manufacturer but only because it came defective, which of course I didn’t notice till it was all together!

6

I don’t know if the one I’m considering getting regeared purrs or snarls. I don’t think I’ve ever seen it run and I’ve belonged to the club about 25 years. I’d like to get a decoder in it, but if I can’t get it to run well on DC, then DCC is out of the question.

7

We are all waiting with baited breath to hear if the loco runs at all. Every so often the past few years I have read in a forum of people having success with the loco. It just needs some attention. Just see it as a challenge.

I have a re-geared, re-motored HO MDC Climax with Micro-Tsunami sound running quite well. No, not cost effective but it was a nice challenge.

Rich

8

Well, if we ever get it to run on DCC I’ll try to remember to post back. Right now someone else who has more interest in steam has it. In addition to the things I’ve asked about, I found that one of the blind drivers spins freely on it’s axle. Because this is an outside frame model, the siderods are keyed to the axle, not the driver, so quartering is not an issue. If I hadn’t been poking around looking at other things, I wouldn’t have noticed.

And of course there is always an expenditure issue. By the time one adds up the cost of the regear, the sound decoder, possibly a driver, and maybe a motor, you end up halfway to the cost of one of those Blackstone things to fix something that most of the other folks here regard as a piece of junk.

Just no respect for tradition anymore.

9

Never let someone’s elses opinion affect your modeling decisions. Many of us here love the the older stuff for many different reasons. I recently spent a good chunk of change purchasing an MDC 2 truck shay, the regear kits from NWSL, a decoder from Digitrax simply because I’ve always wanted to do it and I wanted the challenge. I already have 3 Bachmann Shays that run like a swiss watch, why did I need another? Because when I was finished with it I had a great sense of pride and accomplishment, something I never got from my R-T-R Bachmanns,

Darth SanteFe is a good example of a forum member and modeler who has improved several older engines and have posted the how to’s here on the forum. I enjoy reading his posts and I’m sure others here have as well. Anyone can plunk down a credit card and buy an R-T-R with sound.

I say go for it, purchase a little at a time, and take your time. Remember it’s not a race, enjoy the build.

(and start a thread so we can follow along) [tup]

10

Junk, we are not talking about their HO stuff but HOn3, a whole different world! I have seen one sell for more than a Blackstone, around $400.00. Now I wouldn’t pay that, the cheapest I have seen one go lately is $75.00 in kit form at a swap meet.