I’ve recently aquired several MDC steam locomotives. They are in serious need of a tune up, and some detailing. but my question is are they worth the effort? They’re no where near the quality of the spectrum line, but I love that old time look they have because it goes with the flow of my layout. I’ve also run accross several photographs of shacks on top of tenders just aft of the coal bunker. what is the purpose of these structures? thanks in advance for all the help.
The Roundhouse line of steamers fills an important niche that’s only otherwise represented in pricey brass. They’re all of smaller, older prototypes that all the other manufacturers (except Bachmann) have completely ignored. So if you want to model the pre-1930 period and don’t want to afford brass, then yes, they definitely ARE worth the effort to remotor and superdetail.
As for the shack on the tender, those are called “doghouses”, and are there as a seat for a head end brakeman. Most roads built larger cabs to accomodate a jump seat or two, but many roads, mostly the PRR, N&W and SLSF, preferred doghouses.
Thank you Orson. My next question is where do I start? I feel so overwhelemed. How do I remoter it, and what kind of superdetailing parts to I use? Thank you for the advice.
Dave
For remotoring and regearing go to Northwest Short Line.
Most of the older MDC loco’s were a bit loud when running, as spacemouse said NWSL can really help them run better in the remotoring and regearing part. I have done all 5 of mine and they run quiet and smooth.
I’ve had several MDC steamers over the years–still have most of them. They are noisy at first, but break in rather nicely. Chip is right in saying that re-motoring them with NWSL cans is a big improvement. As to their detailing–many of the ‘heavier’ steamers (2-8-0, 4-6-0, 4-4-2, 2-6-2) are based upon the “Harriman” style of loco, which was mass-produced in the early part of the century for the “Harriman” lines, which included Southern Pacific, Union Pacific and Ilinois Central. They all have a common ‘look’ to them, though details differed from road to road. The MDC models are basically SP prototypes, or at least represent locomotives that the SP modified over the years. Their ‘old-timer’ series of 2-8-0 and 2-6-0 are generally based upon Rio Grande prototypes from the 1880’s on. They’re good, sturdy locomotives, and can be modified easily with either Cal-Scale or PSC brass castings.
Are they worth it? Yah, they’re DEFINITELY worth it. They’re good basic locos, and with tinkering and tuning, can be turned into very good runners. And they’re naturals for the good old fun of ‘kit-bashing.’
Tom
[:D]
I also have an MDC 4-4-0 kit. And I’m more than a little nervous to put it together. I would love to have it assembled but I’ve never built anything like that before. Should I weather it before or after I assemble it? Does anybody have some advice for me, or can you point me in the direction of a good book/magazine article on model steam locomotive assembly/maintinance? thank you all so much for the help.
Dave
You might search Railroad Model Craftsman for articles by John Swanson between 1976 and 1990. Swanson wrote a number of articles about building and modifying locomotive kits. His articles, while mostly devoted to modifying the kits into different locomotives, he has a lot to say about basic construction.
Before you do anything else, if you can, you might want to get your hands on an unassembled MDC 0-6-0 kit. It is an excellent introduction to the construction of locomotive kits, and is rather easy to assemble. This should help you understand how these kits work.
As Chip mentioned, look to NWSL for remotoring and regearing MDC engines. NWSL makes nice idler gear replacement parts specifically designed for MDC engines, and can suggest several high power, small can motors from their line. You’ll definitely want to contact NWSL personally, either by phone or email, with your needs and any questions; they’ve helped me pick the right parts for a few rework projects.
As for detailing, you’ll want to do your research first. There’s lots of details you CAN add to all the engines, but you might not WANT to add them all. And you’ll have to have at least a targeted time era and prototype to copy, to make sure that you’re not adding incorrect parts (a 1895 vacuum brake system and a cross-compound air pump don’t mix, for example, nor do Elecso and Worthington feedwater parts).
First, look through older RR photos for engines you like, and would like to model. This will give you a general rule of thumb to follow, even if you’re freelancing. Once you have a few target engines in mind, search around for more photos of the same class of engine (railroad and timeframe specific). You can never have too many photos!
Next, pick up a copy of Kalmbach’s “Steam Locomitove Cyclopedia”. This book is a fantastic steam engine reference, and will let you know what all those strange parts are, and how they were piped.
Finally, do pick up copies of John Swanson’s “Steam from Kits” article series, which apperaed through the 1980s and 1990s in RMC (do a search in the Magazine Index, above). These articles will show you HOW to model the parts.
And remember, modeling steam is actually FUN! Do work on the drive train first, though: it won’t do you any goo
Dave, 1st - follow the instructions.
Also, read this: http://www.bowser-trains.com/holocos/nyc_k11/100220.pdf
Same methodology, except the MDC kits do not have bearings to be seated like Bowsers.
Make the chassis completely operational BEFORE painting.
Dave,
Mark Schutzer has some clinics on brass steam locomotives that may be of interest and helpful. His website is www.markschutzer.com
He also has a short article on his efforts with an MDC Oldtimer 2-8-0, that you may find interesting.
Also, he is an SP fan too!! [:D][8D]
MDC steamers can be made to be good runners, but it takes some work. Those that friends and I have are very durable once they are “tweeked” and broken in a bit. [8D][:D]
Hope this helps a little.
I have several MDC Locos on my layout. Although a bit tricky to assemble, they do look really nice once finished. From experience, I agree with the previous post. Read the instructions, take your time, and make sure the mechanism works smoothly before you even think about painting.
Here are some pics of MDC locomotives in my roster:
Bob, awsome modeling. I’m completely blown away. What year is it on your layout? I only hope that my layout will one day look that good. Unfortunitly, due to Parkinsons, assemblying kits is out of the question for me, I am going to have to hire someone to help me out. Thank you for sharing the pictures.
Dave
If the driver wheel rims are standard yellow brass you might want to plate them with nickel-silver brass. Unfortunately this will wear off on the treads in a couple years, so has to be re-done occasionally.
I didn’t read the directions on the link given in a post above, but I have found that changing the tender to pick up power on all eight wheels does more to improve performance than anything else.
For looks, I like to change out the leading and trailing trucks. The “blob of metal” ones that come stock really turn me off.