Are you saying that the plastic gears(if they should go bad)should be replaced with NWSL metal gears?I do run the Shay occasionally but never with a heavy load (3-5 small ore cars.)Do you think the others who had this Shay may have run it with heavier loads and/or ran it for extended periods of time?
The worm gears, mounted not quite center of each axle, 3 out of 4 of them were split when I got it, NIB, RTR.
I packed it up, sent it back, and they sent me a different one, same problem.
At the time I had a thread going here, and was told it’s a common occurrance, and I wanted the locomotive, so I decided to quit hassleing with the dealer and just get NWSL gears to replace the split ones.
When I went to call NWSL though, they had closed for their Christmas/New Year’s break so i put the project on hold, and I never got back around to getting it fixed.
I will, winter is coming up, and a lot more of that kind of work gets done. In the summer, I spend a lot of time cutting grass, raising and canning tomatoes, and shooting competitively, so what little layout time is left usually goes to larger projects that go easier outdoors, like benchwork and carving foam. Then in winter, the detail work and individual locomotive or rolling stock or building work gets done.
| NIB=New in Box RTR=Ready to Run.Well maybe the kit was different from the RTR version.Despite over 20 yeards of occasional running she still purs right along.I guess I got lucky with the worm gears! |
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I bought two RTR and neither ran out of the box so I ordered some of the NWSL bull gears. I replaced the gear on one engine and it now runs fine. I’ll get to the other one later. [:D]
The nice thing about the partial regear kit is that you get new driveline and u-joints, along with axle gears. Larry didn’t replace the axle gears because they were in good shape.
Hint: Bourbon makes small parts smaller.[(-D][(-D][(-D]
Sue
Hi, Sorry to sort of barge in here, but my MDC rtr HOn3 loco just wnet bad a few days ago. I’ve been searching for solutions, and found myself here. The little 12 tooth pastic gear at the top of the tall vertical gear box in the center of the engine cracked. I tried glueing it, but that doesn’t seem to work. I saw some replacement items at NWSL web site, but I’m not sure what to get.
They had a 1094-6, 0.3 x 12t spurgear in an old writeup, also some gearing packages:
189-6, 190-6, or 188-6.
Does anyone have any experience with this?
Thanks in advance,
Bill
| I have extra gears but they are plastic.Did you mean the top gear that connnects the gearbox to the motor? |
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Yes, it’s on a shaft that mates to the shaft on the motor itself. Very tiny gear.
IF you would like it,let me know I have 2 extra ones.When I ordered spare parts in the '80s they sent you the whole sprue that the requested part was molded on!Good deal and nice to have extra incase something goes wrong!
Well, thats mighty nice of you. If you’re sure you won’t need one, I’ld certainly be happy to have it. But I wouldn’t want to leave you without a spare, just in case the same thing happened to you. I’ll email you my address.
Yeah it’s cool like I said before I do have 2 of them so if I send you one I still have a spare so I’m good!It shows no signs of stripping it’s gears so I’ll keep my fingers crossed!
I’d agree that the NWSL site is confusing, but don’t let that put you off. The stuff they offer is first rate, accurately made and it fits. You’ll also find that they are quite helpful. I’ve done several remotoring, regearing projects with their stuff, and it greatly improves performance. I found the $ spent for their printed catalog was well worth it because at least for me it was easier to understand than the website.
The issue with the factory MDC gearing is that it is cast and not machined. That means that due to tolerences, die wear, etc., sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you don’t. There also is the problem that some of the gears won’t hold up under use. The NWSL stuff is accurately machined, meaning that it is held to tight tolerences and is concentric. If you’re happy with the factory gearing, that’s great! (I’ve had prettty good luck with my MDC rod engines), but if it breaks, is noisy, etc., the NWSL stuff will offer much improved performance.
In short, you’ll like NWSL if you try them. It’s good stuff & good folks.
JBB
| I agree I bought a set of NWSL wheel-sets for my Athearn PA-1 dummy engine and she runs much better! |
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| GWN GUY,do you still want that gear?I haven’t heard from you.Please advise! |
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Philo,
Yes, sorry. I sent through an email, but appears not to have worked. So, let me do a pm.
Thanks,
Bill
Roofles!!!
The mechanics are different on the model vs proto. MDC is geared straight to the trucks and the side linkages go for the ride and don’t carry the power. I have no clue if the Bachmann uses the linkages to transfer the power, but on the downhill the train will cause the powering to loosen up and speed up till it hits the gearing in reverse and kick the motor faster.
Then it speeds up again till it hits the other direction of the gears and slows down.
Depending if the throttle was up on the prototype and brakes not set, it would hitch too.
Thank you! Got the gear today, and I really appreciate the favor.
Is the shaft that the gear is mount on just a holder that I should be able to remove, or is the gear mounted permanently on the shaft? The gear that I had was just the gear with the center hole. I ask because even when looking at it with my magnifyer (my eyes aren’t what they used to be), I can’t tell if it’s one piece or not. And I don’t want to start hammering away if I’m not supposed to.
Thanks,
Bill
ok, sorry, senior moment. It appears that the metal shaft that the old gear was mounted on comes out of the other fitting thing, and the new gear, shaft and all fits back into the fitting thing. The “fitting thing” is the plastic piece that mates up to the electrical motor. So, I’ll try putzing around with it and see where I get.
Go back and re-read the posts from the beginning. The person was referring to their Bachmann lurching, not an MDC, and yes the Bachmann is powered through the drivelines, like the prototype. I have have both am I am quit aware of the mechanics of the MDC and the Bachmann thank you Mr Roofles. [^]
| According to the instructions the gear mounts at the top of the central gear-box.The power universal is then mounted to the output shaft after the gear box is assembled.Which in turn couples to the motor via the universal drive.if you would like ,I can photocopy the instructions and send them to you. |
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