I have been working on my Merchants Row III today and would like your input.
Is there anything I need to do before I install the windows, doors and trim? The roof is just sitting in place for now. I am going to wait until I hear from some of you since this is my first attempt at a kit, before I go any futher.
Any suggestions on making window shades? I was thinking of printing some on the computer using plain printer paper, or would a decal work better?, maybe a light shade of brownish yellow. I will be installing lights in the structure so I have the interior painted flat black. Thanks. Mike
Mike, if possible, I would encourage you to leave the roof detachable. That way you can have quick access to burned out bulbs, if you should decide to illuminate your building(s). Most of my buildings have removable roofs and I’m glad I planned it it that way.
Click to enlarge picture
The key is to make sure that you don’t have any gaps between the roof and the brick wall that allow stray light to escape.
Mike, is there going to be any interior detail? If not, I’d cut a piece of black foam core to position diagonally across, from the angled front corner to the 90 degree rear corner, for a view block.
That will prevent looking through the upper floor window and seeing out the lower rear windows.
For shades and curtains, look in your friendly neighborhood J C Penney’s catalogue. We used drapery pictures, cut out, for some windows on my neighbor’s layout.
You could also paint curtains on the inside of the window glazing before you install it. I’ve seen others recommend toilet paper, crumpled, for curtains.
It’s not very obvious, due to the angle of the photo, but the curtains and shades are painted on the inside of the windows of the Inn.
I love the limestone keystones but aonder what the brick color is doing on the white area above the lower window area. If the building is new, the coloring is great, if it is old and tired some weathering is in order. That will be a nice addition to your scenery
Art, for the weathering do you think a light overspray with India Ink from the airbrush will work? If so, I should install the windows (not the glazing) first?
Those big windows scream out for interior details. I’d also put an awning over them. Yes, visitors will have to bend down a bit to see in the windows, but then the interiors are even more entertaining.
I like to build a rim around the inside of the walls for the roof piece to sit on. I use cheap 1/8th square balsa for this, glued on to the walls with CA. Not only does it hold the roof up, but it also keeps light from leaking out around the edge of the roof.
Looking good. I use paint samples for shades from the hardware store or paint store. You can pick any color you want. Cut them to size for the windows and how far down you want them. Then glue them on with Testors clear parts cement and window maker. Works great.
I noticed you have a little bit of a gap where the walls join on the right side of your corner entrance door. (I sometimes have that problem too.) If you want to install lights, you may want to touch that up to prevent light leakage.
There are two solutions:
tape the bakeside of all joints with yellow masking tape. Then paint it black.
I usually touch it up with a small amount of GREEN squadrans modelers putty. It comes in a green tube. I take a small knife and push it in the crevice, then take an Xacto #11 and carve in brick detail. However the putty is petro based with xylene in it. You’ll want to wear gloves! This is the preferred solution for me as it helps the outside appearence as well.
I like the building so far though. I think you picked good coloring for the brick and roof.
That’s where yellow masking tape comes in handy between seams. It’s strong enough to stick, but easy enough to remove to keep the pieces from breaking.
Paint the walls before you go any farther. If you take a look at the photo of the finished product (probably on the box) you will note that the building is visually divided into individual stores by the brickwork being painted different colors — brick red, dark red, gray, etc.
I did not do this when I built my Merchants Row I and have regretted it!
This kit is different than I and II. It’s a single building. Not 5 different store fronts like the other two kits. Since you built Row I maybe you could answer a couple questions. Did it come with sidewalks? Are the windows and doors separate pieces or are they molded on like the DPM kits?
I built that kit a long time ago when it was sold under the Heljan brand. It is a pretty simple, straight forward kit. I seem to remember the cornice and ledge did not fit that snuggly. They were a single piece that wrapped around the front and one side of the structure. As I understand it, there are manufacturing issues which make it difficult to mold long pieces and have them maintain the correct length. Maybe someone more technically astute than I can explain that.
What I remember most about the finished kit was that with all the large windows, you will want to do something to disguise the fact it is a big empty shell. Short of detailing the interior, the best solution I’ve seen is the one used by Woodland Scenics for their built-up structures. They use to sheets of black paper running diagonally from corner to corner. Each piece is cut halfway through at the point they intersect so they can interlock in an ‘X’ fashion. It does a nice job of darkening the interior so they detailing isn’t necessary. Another option would be to put in a simple floor and interior wall.
There’s some really good ides for painting and weathering structures. Around the middle of the page are some store fronts. If you click on those, they show you how to do some nice simple interiors and window dressing.
Interesting . . . I just assumed [without checking, which is dangerous!] all the Merchants Row were multiple storefronts. Anyway, I can’t answer your question because my stuff is packed away since we moved a couple of years ago, and I have not seen the building in a while. However, I’m sure someody on the forum will answer