Yup. You read that right. First of all let me say that metal wheels are not necessary for my layout. My train length does not necessitate the lower friction metal wheels provide. But, some of my rolling stock came with metal wheels. The problem children are several Atlas Master tanker cars, an Athearn Caboose, and some other astorted cars with metal wheels. The problem seems to stem from the way I lay flex track. I like the look of very slight variations in elevation (were talking 1/16 of an inch) on my yard tracks. I think it gives a very prototypical apearence as the train bobs just slightly. I don’t want to debate that however. Because of these slight irregularities, these cars don’t stay where I spot them! I set out a tanker at the end of a track, turn around, and by the time I look back, the darn thing has rolled 12 inches down the tracks and coupled with 4 other cars! In addition, when these cars are being pulled at low speeds, they are jerky because the locomotive doesn’t have enough speed to fight the cars lack of friction. The cars jerk and yank against the engine when going down a slight depression. I’ve done testing and the problem is definitely the metal wheels. I’ve triple checked the weight of the cars as well, and they are all spot on. None of my cars with plastic wheelsets have this problem. Should I switch to all plastic?
Try gluing a spring wiper to one of the trucks on each car, as if you were trying to add eletrical pickup. The spring tension against the axles will make them a bit less free rolling, and you get to keep the nicer look of the metal wheels.[:)]
Wow! Hearing your metal wheels roll too freely to me is like saying “I’m getting too much air” or “I have too much money” I can understand your dilemma of not being able to have your car stay put though.
Your track will stay cleaner with metal wheels than plastic.
Maybe the other guys here have some kind of techniques for getting cars to stay put that I am unaware of.
TF
An infestation of riches. [8-|]
I wonder if the truck sideframe cones that take the tips of the axles could have bits of polyester fiber packed into them to provide a bit of resistance.
Plastic wheelsets can also be very free rolling and are unlikely to resolve the “problem.” Indeed I remember when the Lindberg plastic trucks were causing many modelers to realize the changes in elevations in their layouts that the older - metal - trucks never let them knew they had.
One old piece of advice is to place a very soft coil-type spring at the axle end as it is being put into the truck, for that bit of resistance that Selector writes about. Initially I think that advice was for cabooses so that there would be a bit of tension at the end of the train to avoid the “slinky” look of cars bunching up and then pulling slightly apart as a train made its way around the layout.
Dave Nelson
This is so true.
I used Tichy caboose trucks on all of my cabooses, because I was getting intermittent shorts with the brass cabooses and metal trucks.
The all plastic Tichy trucks are the most free-rolling trucks I have.
-Kevin
It’s easy enough to add a wire wiper to ride on the axle(s).
If you want to see a fairly long run-away roll, check out the photos which start HERE. It’s the latter part of a multi-page thread on building/rebuilding freight cars. The un-pushed roll covered roughly 60’.
Wayne
How about adding working hand brakes? Just kidding!
I have a few spots on my layout with slight grades on stub sidings. But, I do have metal wheels on almost all my rolling stock to reduce friction. So, I cut short tufts of field grass and glue it down between the rails, just a few tufts. It looks like a slightly unkempt siding, but with no engine pulling or pushing the cars, the grass holds them in place.
Eeeewww.
There is no reason for me to ever use plastic wheelsets because they create much more track dirt and some of today’s dcc engines do not like track dirt.
John
I have noticed that sometimes it is difficult to couple up to a free rolling car because the car runs away before the couplers open. Just like in the real world when the pin refuses to drop. In that event I just back off and hit it harder. Again, just like in real life. Still, it is a compromise we have to live with.
Charlie (grouchy German)
Brilliant! I will suggest that to our club.
Simon
This is actually a problem with Kadee semi scale couplers, they can require more force to couple than the original coupler.
And they require even more force when you mix the semi scale head with a regular head coupler.
That’s why I do not use semi scale couplers.
But I would never give up my metal wheels in my sprung/equlaized trucks.
Sheldon
If the metal wheels roll too much, try applying grease to the bearings. The starting resistance has increased and the rolling stock will have stopped on a slight slope. On the other hand, when it starts running, the original lubricating action of grease is exhibited. There are two challenges. One is to choose grease of appropriate hardness (cone penetration, kinematic viscosity). The other is that there is no adverse effect on the paint coating or plastic (ABS and styrene). Let’s try it for a model greace for the time being. What about petrolatum, lip balm, pomade, or Mentholatum? Those who believe shall be saved.
One idea I have seen is similar to Mr B’s, that is use a short piece of piano wire standing up between the rails to catch the axle of the car.
Some I have seen mentioned even have the wire so that it may be raised and lowered by using something similar to a choke cable. I think these are more on the mainline, so that they won’t interfear with traffic.
Good luck,
Richard
Hmmm, interesting concept [^o)]. Careful what you wish for!
PMR
I reads years ago where somebody took old atlas snap switch motors and mounted them under the layout sideways. Attached a wire with just enough length so when in the up position, it catch the axles.
Saw another little gadget that was a small block the fits over the rail with a short wire tail to act as a wheel stop. It had either a short piano wire or tab to sit against a tie.
Shane
Many thanks to all those that offered suggestions. I’m going to try a few and see. I love this forum for asking questions about things that dont have a lot of published info. But I absolutely hate the answers that tell me what I already know. Like free rolling wheel sets are a good thing. I know they are, but I also need to be able to spot cars where and when I choose. Anyway, thanks again!
You had it coming with the title of your thread. The title of the thread is critical in getting a helpful reply. “How do I prevent cars from rolling away while coupling?” would have reframed thee discussion.
It’s the Internet, people will answer questions you didn’t ask, change scales, throttle manufacturers, and if you are lucky, your thread will not descend into the price of hockey pucks. Which I know now, but didn’t know a couple weeks ago.
BTW grease attracts dirt. I would not be eager to try that suggestion.
Many of the brass models I own are pivot wheels with brass bearings. I’m greased there and certainly some of them get dusty. But that’s not a problem. Please tell us about the troubles you have experienced with grease and dust.