I model in HO and I want to put metal wheels on all my cars. I have Athern, Roundhouse, Whalthers, Concor freight cars and Rivarossi passenger cars. What brand of Wheel sets would fit these cars? Does one size fit all? I know that there is different sizes of wheels but is there different lengths of axles for the different makes of cars? Is there one wheel set better than another? [?]
santaferay.
First off: [#welcome] to the forum! Good to have you aboard! [:)]
The freight cars will most likely have 33" wheels; passenger cars, 36".
I use Proto 2000 metal wheels on all my rolling stock and like them very much. Intermountain and Kadee also make good metal wheels. I think it was Don Gibson who stated that there is a slight variation in width between metal wheels. He favors the Intermountains.
Tom
I have all of the makes you list above. I have settled into Proto 2000 metal wheel sets. 33" flat back for most applications. They snap right in without any problem usually. On occasion I’ve had to spread the trucks a tad with my fingers to free up the spin. If the cars have been around for awhile, I’ll clean out the inside of the hole for the axle ends and lub them lightly. Don’t know if this helps but always figured it can’t hurt.
For Walthers, they always seem to be to tight for the Proto wheels and I have replaced all of the trucks with Athearn trucks containing Proto wheels.
On Rivarossi passengers, mine are old cars from the 70’s. I replaced the wheels with 31" metals wheels from IHC and they have worked well. Depending on the car I’ve had one or two wheels travel loose. But they don’t fall out so I left them alone.
There are several other mfg of metal wheels, just haven’t tried them since the Proto’s have worked well.
One last note, I bought a bag of Atlas metal wheels and they do not work at all. They must be shorter in length and fall out of the pockets. In the bag they sit.
I’ve had good luck with both Intermountian and proto’s. My only bad luck with the change to metal wheels, is that some of my existing track at industries are not absolutely flat. Cars don’t stay put.
Cletus
I have been changing out wheel sets with Atlas trucks and wheels, Mostly the 70 ton roller bearing trucks. Work just fine for me, I had the same problem when I started changing out the trucks and wheels as above, they would roll away from where I spotted them, had to do alot of track adjusting.
I changed all mine out to the Intermountain on my MDC and Athearn cars, the rest got the Proto metal wheels, they all pull allot easier now.
No, one size does not fit all. We learned this the hard way. We where happily converting our clubs entire fleet when we noticed that when the cars were coming in for normal maintenance (mostly Athearn BB) that the couplers were sitting too low. Then we noticed that they were also sloppy side to side. Some had almost 3/32" of side to side play. When we started measuring things we discovered that even the rib back and flat back Proto 2000 wheels have different axle lengths. After much study and the purchase of a set of the Reboxx measuring axles, we ended up going with the Atlas 33" “caboose” wheel sets for the Athearn BB cars.
We take the manufacture’s wheel set out.
Measure its length.
Put in the appropriate length Reboxx set to see that it really fits.
If so we then purchase an appropriate length replacement.
Here is a list they have assembled of the ‘stock’ lenghts.
http://www.theoldandwearycarshop.com/Reboxxcharts.html
If the manufacturer doesn’t print the axle length on the product, we don’t buy it.
P.S. After spending a over a year converting the fleet, there is now a big movement a foot to convert back because of all the noise the metal wheels make. Our original reason for converting was to “keep the track clean”. They didn’t help that issue at all.
I use Proto2000 wheels on almost everything. A few oddballs have different axel length requirements - for those, the Reboxx wheels work great since they are available in many specific lengths. So far everything Athearn, Accurail, and Stewart has worked with the P2K wheelsets. Branchline and P2K cars already have metal wheels, so I don’t change those. My father in law has run across some Accurail that the P2K wheelsets are too long for - they are definitely Accurail, as the Accurail name is stamped in the truck, but why they are a different length I have no idea.
–Randy
I also use Proto 2000 wheels; and if I find a tight fit, the problem is usually solved by a few twists of a Truck Tuner. This handy little tool (order #82838) can be purchased from www.micromark.com for $11.95.
Model Railroader had an article about this in the last couple of years.
Just note that the axle length of the original axle is not a totally reliable guide – manufacturers will tend to use a shorter than exact-fit axle because the car runs more easily, and not enough modellers have complained about the side slop.
I found my one caboose hopping oddly for the first time, yesterday. I finally picked it up and looked to see if an axle had bent or become dislodged. Instead, I found a fairly thick layer of dark gray, grimy black maybe, gunk that I have never seen before. (I’m still a newbie despite the stars…and hope that both disappear ere long.) Of course, I knew what I was looking at, but I had become complacent since I have never cleaned my track. I recently checked my locos, and they are all fine! So I wonder why the last car in the train…although I have not checked the others.
I used a thin piece of cedar shim to scrape off the gunk, and must say that it did a creditable job.
-Crandell
The only set of P2K wheels I ever had rotted out on me, they just kind of disintegrated on my track, and I constantly had dirty rails. All of mine are Internountain wheelsets now, and that’s all I get anymore. It’s just easier this way, I’m standardizing all of my wheels (Intermountain), couplers (kadee), and all of the lights I’ve replaced are either the same Golden White LED’s or 1.2mm Miniatronics bulbs. It’s great having them all the same. Keeps parts down.
Good luck,
Greg
Note that Kadee wheels, while metal, have plastic axels which makes them more roll resistant. That’s why when I install Kadee truck (all of my rolling stock have Kadee trucks) I replace the KD wheels with Intermountain. BTW good plase to get Intermountain metal wheels is at www.tomstrains.com where if you buy a 100 pack you pay very cheap.
All of my replacement wheels have been Proto.
On my Rivarossi Passenger cars, I used 33" Proto & on my freight, Athearn, MDC, Accurail & Walthers, I’ve used 33 or 36.
My Athearn passenger cars, Athearn makes metal axles for them! I plan on switching them over in the future.
Gordon
I like intermountain, atlas and kato trucks, (I’ll use them all if i can get them discount or on sale) some people like kadee trucks but i found that they are just too springy, flexible, and you can loose the springs in them also…chuck
i like the proto 2000 wheels. work well for me.
Don’t fix it if ain’t broke!
I only change out wheels if the car is having problems staying on the track, (with the exception of the older Rivarossi pass cars - they had the large european flanges).
I really don’t worry aboout rolling resistance (unless they don’t turn at all), I just add more power to the consist. I generally run 30 -35 car trains with 2 or 3 4-axle engines or 2 6-axle engines, 30-50 car trains with 3 engines 4 or 6 axle, without any problems.
I’ve been using Wahls Clipper Oil on the track 2 to 4 times a year, (depending on much we run), for over 10 years and dirty track or wheels has never been an issue.
Real rail car trucks are also springy and for a good reason [:)] Sprung trucks reduce the chance of derailments, when car hits imperfection on a track the springs act as shock absorbers. Rigid trucks just make car jump ( and it looks funy too, as car jumps like a toy)
GENERAL RULE: 95%
freight 33"
passenger 36"
SOME offshore wheel OEM truck manufacturers are supplying wheelsets built to European/Metric/NEM standards which are fine - as long as the sideframes match.
PROBLEM is when you buy NMRA wheelsets for NEM sideframes - or Vice versa.
Some of our Importer - manufacturers are buying whatever is cheaper and feel their responsibity doesn’t include retrofits.
SOLUTION #1: I keep a package of JayBee wheels with NEM axles on hand. Walthers carries.
SOLUTION #2: I keep a pkg of Kato 33" trucks (NMRA) on hand.
Complain to the Importer that you don’t wi***o buy anymore product with plastic non- NMRA wheels.
SOLUTION #4: Buy Intermountain cars. Too expensive? Now you know why you got NEM wheels on your cars in the first place.