Could someone please give me a semi-detailed explanation why metal wheelsets are better than plastic. I’ve been out of Model Railroading for about 20 yrs. My old stuff mostly has plastic wheelsets and I would like to change them if I understood why. Thanks to all who respond.
Richard
Plastic wheels abrade quite a bit on metal track, that leaves a nice dust which then mixes with whatever moisture and house dust is in the environment and voilà you have more goonk on the track.
Hi
I try and get as many metal wheels on the track as possable.
I even whent to the point of destroying collectors value on old stock I have to get metal wheels fitted.
While it will not get rid of the need to clean track it will cut it down in direct proportion to the number of metal wheels in operation.
the plastic wheels leave a load of insulating gunk on the rails which must be cleaned off
regularly to retain running reliabilaty.
regards John
Metal wheels sound better, too.
Metal wheels also add some weight and it is very low. I like the wheelsets from NWSL.
Enjoy
Paul
Metal wheels tend to keep the track cleaner - in much the same way as the real thing works (regularly used track is always shiny on top). They are also usually more concentric, resulting in less wobbling and uneven running (Athearn cars seem particularly vulnerable to this - I have a 3-unit drawbar double stack that became a far better runner after fitting metal wheelsets). Metal wheels also seem to reduce the rolling resistance of cars - a loco that previously struggled to haul a train is far happier after I fitted these wheelsets. Finally, they sound nice - you get the clicking over rail joints, the grinding on tighter curves (I was inspired to try to achieve this after riding a preserved industrial line in Bristol City Docks - long 4-wheel brake vans on tight tracks make some interesting noises!), etc. Personally, I use Proto metal wheels, mainly because they’re easily available and fit Athearn cars easily.
From SW Michigan.
Be extremly cautious because of the variables and varieties involed.
There are 28",33"36" & 38"
http://www.trains.com/Content/Dynamic/Articles/000/000/002/197xvpbs.asp
http://www.nmra.org/beginner/wheelsets.html
CAUTION: Not all aftermarket replacement sets have the same axle LENGTH.
www.reboxx.com is a big player in this market and sells wheel sets in multiple lengths
since manufacturer stock wheels vary from model car manufacturer to car manufacturer.
Reboxx sets are all 0.088 wide versus more common 0.110.
Other suppliers are below plus a few more in the Walthers’ reference book.
The following axle measurements have been furnished by Master Modeler Nigel.
P2K-1.008, Intermountain - 1.013, Kadee 1.018 and there’s more.
Another consideration when upgrading is to use the truck tuner.
www.micromark.com item# 82838, just type it in the item box, then click on the description.
Bottom Line: Greater free rolling ability=longer trains and cleaner track and when cleaning
track try out MAAS, a 2 ounce metal paste cleaner/polisher. Also , automotive polishing compound as a substitute.
Happy railroading.
I know that metal wheel set are better, but I have a large number of cars with plastic wheels as I am on a limited train budget. Yes the metal wheels stay somewhat cleaner, but overall I get good performance out of the plastic wheels. They don’t really get that dirty and I have little derailment problem.
Ron
There’s a VERY noticeable difference in track cleanliness when you discard all plastic wheelsets. On my last layout, I used whichever wheels came with the car, usually plastic. I had to clean the track almost every time I used the layout. I’ve since switched to nothing but metal wheelsets (virtually all P2K) and I haven’t cleaned my track in the year my basic mainline has been up (225 feet long)
A couple of years ago, I read a pseudo-scientific study of plastic vs. metal wheelsets. One thing mentioned in that item was that plastic wheels tend to generate static electricity, which attracts dirt. This dirt, in turn, winds up on your track and requires more frequent cleaning than with metal wheelsets.
[:D]YUP!!![:D]
Another thing to consider is the use of metal trucks as well as the wheels.
I was running plactic wheels and truck for a while before I recently upgraded to metal wheels on all my rolling stock and metal trucks with springs non most of them.
The difference is like night and day in ride quality and also in the cleanliness of the track.
And when you run DCC a clean track makes you a happy engineer. A diry track is not good. I was having to clean my track once a month ( three smokers in this house plus losts of pust and pollen) and now I only clean it abotu once every 6 months, I am about to try the radio shack tuner cleaner method that supposedly allows you to only clean things once a year or so once I redo my layout.
I’ve never had the inclination to jump on the metal wheelset band wagon. I and other model railroaders in the area use the wheels that come with the models or upgrade to Kadee’s. Layouts run fine and track cleaning is just considered to be a part of regular layout maintenance as it’s always been.
Personally, I don’t want my cars all that freerolling as I have no desire to built my layout to such a tight standard using a laser level and GPS to ensure level so my uncoupled cars won’t roll away!
IMO, generally speaking, quality rolling stock should not have to be up graded.
Now I will share with you my Walthers HO Budd Passenger stock sets first run cars.
My Atlas Dash 8-32BW would only pull three cars on level track because of the axle drag so I had to upgrage to IMs if I wanted to get the full consist out of the station.
What a learning experience for a discounted $24.00 car.
I would like to thank ALL responders to my inquiry…the information has helped me greatly. I think I will probably go to all metal trucks and wheelsets…eventually!!!
What a great forum!!!
Richard
It gets better.
First of all, metal wheel sets look “real” vs. plastic which looks like plastic.
Secondly, metal wheel sets allow you to add more weight to the car without adding more weight at the axle/truck needle bearing (metal wheels weigh more than the plastic). Additionally, the less weight on the bearing means less frictional force at the bearing thus generating less rolling resistance (the car will roll more freely). The case for added rolling inertia could be made as the metal wheels are heavier than the plastic, but realistically, this would probably not be noticeable.
Sean
Some modelers prefer the 100% all metal IMs on their empty(under weighted hoppers).
Am converting my entire freight and passenger car fleet to metal wheels. [:)][:D]
It’s funny that I just have a shelf that’s a multi-tracked “tester” and yet grime builds up just from running plastic wheel equipped cars back and forth on the test tracks. Metal wheels stay much cleaner and yes, I like hearing the sharp “clickey-clacks” that they produce. I’ve weighed my Athearn Centerflow hopper cars down with “birdshot” and the clicks are quite noticeable! Nice! [;)]
Smooth trackwork is essential though, as the cars will still “jolt” noticeably if track sections connected with rail joiners are not snug. [:p]
Cheers!
Much of my layout is in-street track, so reducing track grime is a high priority (since cleaning track surrounded by street is harder than regular ties-on-ballast) as is accurate gauge (out-gauge wheelsets get stuck in flangeways and scrape against the street.) The heavier weight of metal wheels helps avoid derailments.
Every little bit helps–but all in all, the advantages of metal wheelsets add up to quite a bit!