Hi there. I’m new to the forum and was hoping that I could get some help on a track issue I’m having. I’m not sure how old the tracks are (they were my fathers), but my O gauge has a middle track. I have discovered that several of the insulators from the middle track have deteriorated and have been causing the track to continually spark, then short out. I would like to replace the material, but I’m not sure what would be safe to use. I wasn’t sure if this was a silly question as it looks like the previous material was just a form of card stock, but I’m new to the hobby, and I’d like to do this right. Thanks for your help.
One material that would be easy to work with would be a piece of leather, possibly salvaged from an old billfold…and[#welcome] to the forum
[#welcome] welcome to the forum! It’s one of the best places to get your questions answered.
The insulators for the middle rail were paper based. I’ve used 3x5 file cards to make new ones, as well as old file folders. any card stock of proper thickness will do. And as to silly questions-- the only silly one is the one you do not ask. The community by and large is ready, williing and able to help.
Hey Jenny! One other suggestion: Lionel track is relatively cheap (aside from switches or turnouts). Whether your dad had “O” or “O-27” both kinds are available new, and pretty much identicle to the original stuff.
Your life will be easier with new track.
Jon [8D]
Jenny Lyn,
I agree with WillPick, any card stock should do. Plastic or leather will work also. New track is ok but fixing it is half the fun!
Jenny, you don’t give us much info as to the trains you have and the condition they’re in. But I’ll offer some basic trouble shooting here. If the center rail insulators have deteriorated that much, probably the track is dirty too. It could also be that actually is the main issue. Old dirty track (along with gunk coated locomotive and rolling stock wheels) can also cause sparking.
Old dirty track can also cause the loco to stall and not necessarily short. If you hear a “click” from the transformer, or notice the light inside the caboose (provided your caboose is illuminated) dims down without going dark, then you do have a short.
I would suggest first cleaning the rails of the track and the locomotive wheels before doing anything else. You can use a rag or a sponge and spray that with WD-40 and wipe down the rails with that. Let it set overnight and then using a Scotchbrite scrubber or something similar, scrub the rails and then wipe them down with a clean rag. The WD-40 will help clean the track as well as coating it to help inhibit any further rusting.
You can clean your locomotive wheels with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. You can make easy work of this by cradling the loco upside down in your lap. If you have alligator clips on your wires running from the transformer, that makes it even easier. If you don’t, strip enough plastic off one wire, so you can wrap it or hook it around the roller pick up. Then you can touch the other wire to the frame of the loco or one of the wheels. Using a clean cloth wet with the 91% alcohol, and with the loco wheels turning, you can clean the wheels pretty quickly. You’ll probably be surprised how much gunk you get off them. If the wheels haven’t been cleaned in a long while, it may take serveral trys to get them all clean.
Your engine probably also is going to need some lubrication. Also check you transformer cord and make sure there is no deterioration there… fire hazzard.
If you are still going to replace center rail insulators, here’s a
I use what I think is properly called “pressboard”. It is a thin rigid cardboard that is used for presentation folders. I’m still on my first folder.
I second the advice to have something under and thicker than the tie. I like something harder than wood, however, and just use a 1/4-20 nut (for O27).
Jenny Lyn,
Welcome to the forum. You have received several good answers to your question so far. Just select the one that suits you best.
The insulator on my Lionel track is 0.020 inch thick Fish Paper.
Fish Paper is made in many thin gauges, typically from .0078" to .062" thick. It has very good electrical insulating properties, and is flexible with good forming capabilities for applications such as three rail track insulation. Fishpaper has been the first choice insulator of the electrical industry for over 100 years.
Here is how it is made: http://www.oliner.com/Vulcanex/vulcmake.htm
Reference: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=electrical+fish+paper&btnG=Google+Search&aq=f&oq=
Hello Jenny,
As has been mentioned, new track is great. I abandoned all my fathers old tubular and went with new as well. The majority of your problems melt away. But be aware, I have had new tubular track short out as well right off the shelf. So I’ve learned to test each section before and after installation with the volt/ohm. Weather the track is old or new, all of the above repair tips apply.
Have fun and welcome.
Rod L
I’ll have to echo everything Jon said. New track is cheap, plentiful, and widely available – plus it’ll save a lot of labor. [2c]
- Clint
Wow, thank you so much everyone! I didn’t expect such a response in less than a day. I’m not sure which idea will be more feasible with my future plans for the set. It depends on how much time and/or money I can devote to the tracks. I really appreciate your help. Hopefully in the next few days I’ll be able to see what I can do and see the steam engine go again. The next project will be to convert the pellet to liquid smoke to see the “steam”. 
Thanks again! Jenny
Have you tried it with pellets?
It struck me in reading this topic that there are several apparently nonsensical uses of the word “fish” in the English language. We have “fish paper” here. Rails are connected with “fish plates”. And double-reed players use “fish skin” to seal holes in their reeds. Can anyone find an actual connection to fish in these expressions? Are there any more “fish phrases” that I don’t know about?