Miter Saw or Table Saw

I’m looking at buying a saw this spring and can’t decide between a miter saw or a table saw. As far as modeling at most I’d be working on possibly some Free-Mo modules.

What would you folks recommend and why?

Thanks

Chris

What sort of framework will you be building? I built my benchwork in 2x4 foot sections, so I was able to buy the plywood precut. I got tired of hand sawign the 1x4’s so I bought a small miter saw. A table saw takes up much more room when it comes time to store it, but if you need to cut down large sheet materials that’s what you need. For frame and legs, either works but if you won’t be doing the sheet goods, the miter saw is smaller and cheaper.

–Randy

I’m lucky in that I have both a table saw and a miter saw. Crosscutting is best accomplished with a sliding compound miter saw, however if you plan on doing a lot of ripping, the table saw is the best saw. On the other hand, you can always use a skill saw with a metal guide to do your ripping, especially on plywood.

Like I said, I’m lucky in that I spent a lot of years working as a carpenter, furniture/cabinet builder and have at least one of everything and a full blown woodworking shop to use them in.

Cheers

Cho Cho Willie

Chris,

I am a woodworker, you can do so much more on a table saw than you can do on a miter saw. I just got back into the hobby after 20 years and used my miter saw and table saw when building the frame work. The only things I used the miter saw on were cross cutting the 1X4’s to length. Everything else was done on the table saw. The cross cutting of the 1X4’s is easily done on the table saw. I even cut the 2" foam board in the table saw.

I am a cabinet maker and have the top of the line equipment, shop around carefully and buy the best you can afford. Good Luck.

Jack

Chris,

I highly recommend you purchase a miter saw if your planning on building modules. Be sure to get a model that has the laser, which saves a lot of time lining up were you marked the wood for cutting

When you need to have plywood cut ,lumber yards and the big box stores have done this for me in the past.

Frank

A radial Arm Saw.[C):-)] I ripped all my spline on mine and they’re great for other applications as well. Also they tend to be dirt cheap in the used department. I also have a mitre saw and a Table saw but if I were to buy just one, a Radial Arm Saw would be it.

Brent

I also am a woodworker and use both on my layout. The miter saw will cut stuff to length really well. You can rip a few boards with a long straight edge and a circular saw. Tat is teh combination I would recomend.

I’m afraid I disagree. I have a radial arm saw and a table saw. The radial arm saw was the first big tool I purchased after we moved into our home. The radial arm saw has what appear to be a bunch of advantages in the the motor can be swiveled and pivoted, allowing the saw to crosscut, rip cut, and miter cut. Some also allow mounting other attachments, such as a router. However, all the movement means that there are a lot of spots that can go out of adjustment. Plus if you want to cut sheet goods, the table is just not wide enough in most cases to provide proper support for the piece being cut. Now adays, I primarily use it for crosscutting.

If one wants to cut sheet goods, or rip lengths of wood to make spline, the table saw is the tool to get.

If all you want to do is make crosscutting easy, then I think that I would look into a good miter saw (or chop saw I believe it is sometimes called). The thing you have to watch out for here is that there is a limitation as to how wide and thick the piece being cut is. And if you want to cut an angle, the allowable wood dimensions get less.

For module building a miter saw would be the way to go. I would be more concerned about getting the end cuts “square” then doing any ripping of the plywood for the tops. If I were looking to buy a saw just to use for module building then sell it or store it, the miter saw is smaller. A table saw or a radial arm saw take up a lot of room. So if I were not going to use them later for woodworking, I could not justify the cost and room them will need.

Note; Take your time, measure twice, cut once. You can always cut more wood off but its a pain to glue more back on.

And check the local pawnshops for cheap saws.

I cut it 3 times and it’s still too short!!!

It’s rather difficult to tell you either or on the miter or table saw. They are both needed. You could of coarse rip plywood or pine if needed w/ a skillsaw, but the key word here is “Skill”. and all crosscuts done w/ the miter or sliding compound if you want. There are many inexpensive models of miter and table saws available to suit the needs of building benchwork. If you plan an investment in the tool and plan for future use (remodeling, moldings minor cabinet work, exterior trim etc, then spend a few more $$$ and do buy the better brands. I am a professional finish carpenter stairbuilder and I usually need to be careful recommending tools. I am always asked what’s the best brand and how much to spend? It all depends on what you need and are you using it for a one time project and then sit and collect dust? Just because one manufacturer produces excellent drill motors or sawzall’s doesn’t mean that thier routers, skillsaws cordless products, etc are great also.

I would asses your needs, expense and the overall use factor for the equipment then shop around. I have some excellent shop equipment, however 90% of my work is on site, thus portibility yet quaity and precision is a must for that set of tools. I don’t know what I would do w/o that Bosch sliding compound. Could never go back to the days when Makita chop saw was the hot ticket and only tool out…Nothing wrong w/ the Makita the still work some 25years later like a champ.

Smaller less expensive Craftsman, Ryobi, I believe Rigid has a decent cheaper model also. are all satisfactory for chopping those 1x crosscuts.

As for table saws, I wouldn’t have believed it, on day a fellow carpenter showed up w/ this actually “cheap” tool. HE REMARKED, DON’T LAUGH "TIL YOU TRY IT!! I was impressed and bought 1 for myself and 1 for the crew. Like it so much, rarely put the beasty Rigid or Bocsh portables in the truck anymore. The Crafts

a radial arm saw will do everything a tabe saw will do and is a mitre saw on steroids.

Hi Cris

I Bought my first table saw and a radial arm saw back in 1962. To be easy to work with when ripping 4’ X 8’ sheets of plywood it helps to have an 8’ table and fence on each side of the saw, That’s an 18’ table which I had. When I started to wind down my business I choose to keep the table saw. That and a crutch (stand with roller on top) I’m able to rip precise strips for joists beams ETC. The only thing I use the miter saw for is cross cuts. My choose, so others may differ.

Good luck. [tup] [:D]

Lee

By the way. That cast iron Sears table saw is still with me.

It is all in your skill level! You have guys saying “buy the best”, bull! I have done fine finish carpentry on a Hursh, about the cheapest table saw you will ever see!!! I have all the tools but for model railroading use I usually use a cheap Ryobi 18 volt set with a circular saw and a guide, You don’t need anything more. That being said, in the trades I find a table saw to be the most useful of saws to do finer work.

Bloody luxury!!! I used a table knife and fork to cut my 3000 sq. ft. full basement layout that also tunnels out to my four car 1200 sq. ft. garage. That’s benchwork for 1000 linear feet of main and branch line.

Ojkay, I use a cheap table saw with fences and a circular. Otherwise, hand angle and hand cut. I could have gone to get my dad’s chop saw, but…

I have both a table saw and a miter saw and totally agree that if you were limited to only one then I would opt for the miter saw. The price of the saw, at least to me, is less important that the blade, always get a quality cut off blade. I work part time at a hardware store and if you purchase a 4x8 sheet of plywood we will allow you three cuts for free; any cuts other than those are at $.25 per…so for a couple of bucks you can cut all the plywood you want. Additionally, with the miter saw bear in mind that the width of the lumber being cut will decrease with the angle of the cut.

Any way, miters are good for cutting short pieces of wood only. But great for cutting complex angles on those short pieces of wood.

A table saw is good for long straight rips. But you can buy a hand circular saw with a guide that will give you clean rips up to 12" or more. You need to read the specs on the cicular saw.

I will add that a table saw does have one important advantage over a hand held circular saw with guide.

Plywood tends to splinter badly where the cut is on the feed downside. (Especially Perp. to the grain) A high tooth count helps, but a table saw with a solid surface beneath the wood helps minimize the splintered edges. A handheld circular saw with guide typically has no solid surface beneath it, leading to more splinters.

Hi!

“Been there, done that” as they say… Either one is the “better” choice depending on what you figure to be cutting the most. For long cuts on big stock (plywood), a table saw is best. For cuts on 2x?, a chop saw (Mitre) is often the best. Of course which ever you choose, you can easily accomplish the other functions with a circular hand saw.

The thing that was a biggee for me was the space requirement. A table saw is often a permanent fixture taking up a lot of room. A chop saw can be stored and bolted in place when needed on the work bench - fairly easily. Of course that’s pretty subjective to those that have one or the other.

I have to add this… the table saw can easily be more dangerous than the chop saw. My father in law - a finish carpenter - cut the ends of his fingers when it bucked on him (HIS fault). And of course, the table saw is constantly running, whereas a chop saw only runs when you are cutting. EITHER one can be dangerous, so please keep this in mind.

Good point, all tools can be dangerous, I have had a few close calls, all from my stupidity. Every time that that has happened, even ones where I was in no danger, I step back, rethink things for a few minutes and then precede!