I’m planning a layout using Atlas code 55 (flex) and I’d like to know if anyone’s successfully mixed Peco (or others’) turnouts with Atlas track. I like the Atlas for its price, appearance, quality, etc., but the assortment of turnout types in code 55 seems to be really limited. Short of rolling my own (which I am seriously not inclined to do - no offense to you hand-layers out there, you’ve got my respect!) I’d like to be able to work in some more interesting turnouts available from other brands.
Thanks and sorry if this topic has been done before
Chris
The problem with mixing Peco code 55 with any other manufacturer is that the Peco track is actually code 80 track that is sunk into the rails. To connect it to other brands of track, you need to do a bit of grinding on the end of the Peco rail to make the joiner fit.
The other problem with Peco track is that, if you’re modeling a U.S. railroad, it doesn’t look very prototypical. The tie spacing, etc are to European standards. Peco is finally making an “American prototype” track in HO scale, but N will have to wait.
Micro Engineering N scale code 55 is the best stuff going, but alas, they make only a #6 turnout. I spoke with a dealer who told me that Micro Engineering is reworking some of their tooling, and they will have a new, even better turnout available in November, but still only a #6.
Do you know if the rails actually align in elevation?. That was the main thing I was thinking about, plus I suppose the profile of the rail will need to match fairly closely on the inside…
yeah, I believe they line up pretty close, but the Peco actually has two flanges on the bottom. One visible, and one sunk in the rails. the bottom flange is what needs to be ground off to mate up with Atlas code 55.
Handlaying turnouts isn’t really as hard as it sounds, I’ve been told. I’m about to find out, because I’m going to give it a try. Pick up a copy of the book “Trackwork and LIneside Detail” and it has a whole chapter devoted specifically to handlaying N scale turnouts. Also, check out the kits at this site:
Ray, I just looked at the handlaidtrack site. It was on my list of things to do, and your comment reminded me to go check it out. Wow, that’s really cool. So I assume that you’re going to use their FastTrack fixture system? This looks really great. I’m going to order one of the kits soon and try it. I hope they will supply a fixture for the Atlas 55 rail, which is not listed in their standard product line. They say they will make fixtures for just about anything.
Now we’ll see who makes the first hand laid turnout!
This is really starting to wander off topic, but this final comment may be useful to others who have been following this thread and wondering how it’s gonna end. I just did some reading on the handlaidtrack user forum and found some discussion of using their ME N-scale code 55 fixture with Atlas code 55. One person posted measurements made with a digital caliper (my favorite tool of all time) comparing Atlas and ME and found them to be very close dimensionally. Another indicated good results from using the ME fixtures with Atlas track (stripped off of flextrack). This is good news for those using Atlas because they can get a ME kit less money and faster delivery than getting a customized fixure and associated other parts.
Chris: one way to mix the Atlas and Peco track is to put a railjoiner on the Peco track and flatten it with pliers, the solder the Atlas or ME track on top of it. With a bit of practice you should be able to get a smooth joint. If you’re careful/lucky you may be able to remove the joiner from the Peco rail. I would try to do the soldering on a piece of plain track, not the turnout.
Chris I just mixed a peco switch and atlas code 55 track last night. All I did was use my dremel to grind off the bottom part of the peco till it was sorta the same hight as the atlas track then slid on an atlas code 55 rail joiner and then soldered them as usual. Hit it with a bit of filing and it worked out just fine. The tops of the rails were just about perfect. The two don’t match very well but I like the all metal look of the frog plus its powered and it also has the snap spring action on the points. You will also have to do some shimming on a short piece of track on all three ends to get rid of the hump as the peco ties are a lot thicker and they sit higher on the roadbed.
But its all quite doable with a dremel and the usual filing. Best part is it works flawlessly. I whipped through that turnout about 20 times last night at all speeds both pushing and pulling 8 cars (only got 8 with lowprofile wheel just now) with an SD90mac (one of the longest units you can get) and an SD40.
It will work just fine, just be carefull when using your dremel. If I can do it anybody can!!
