I asked this before as an addition to a previous post, but without updating the heading, so I got no responses. Sorry if you’ve already read this.
I’ve got a problem with my dz-125, installed in a bachman N Doodlebug. I tried changing the engine’s address, and the values of the cv to keep the rear lamp on all the time, and now all I’ve got is an engine that sits there with it’s rear light on. I tried resetting the decoder according to the manual’s directions, and when I “cvrd” the loco’s #, I get ‘003’ (I’ve read back the loco’s address in both 2 and 4 digits, and each time I’m told the address is 03), so I try to control engine number ‘03’ and nothing happens, short of the rear lamp that I have no control over. Any ideas?
Thanks again.
i had 4 125’s from what i was told was the first batch. 2 seem ok. one would work, if you could call it that? IF you physically squeezed the chip!! ( i’m thinking dry joint somewhere? probably a QC issue ) so no use really. the last one would not read back any CV’s, would not work on address 3 out the packet, and would not accept programming either. also, i’m not too impressed with the pins on the direct plug in version, they are just round bits of wire/rod . i sent to duff ones back to my LHS and asked for the replacments to be lenz mini silvers. they may be a few bucks more, but the pins are proper square profile on the plug in version and the actual PCB is only a few thou bigger. what makes the lenz mini direct plug in bigger is the little black plastic ‘knuckle duster’ over the pins at the edge of the PCB. if you remove this and trim the pins shorter it is for all intents and purposes the same size as a direct plug in DZ 125 ( within a few thou bigger ) back on topic, i’m sure digitrax would swap them direct for you without any problem. their service/warrenty repair/replacement is top class and a credit to their business attitude of customer satisfaction. i have never yet read of,or experienced poor service from them.
i now use an ESU decoder tester on all my decoders that can use it when i get them and deal with issues accordingly. i don’t want any issues with sending a decoder back after 6 months cos thats when i finally got round to using it?
Locoworks: I can’t help but think that you must have done something wrong with those DZ125’s. I’ve installed 5 of them and not a one has a problem. I do know that if you’re not very careful with the wires it’s possible to break 1 or 2 loose from the board. I hadrwired 4 of them into some Athearn BB locos and plugged the 5th one into a P2K GP38-2.
no, i was gentle. the faulty one that wouldn’t take programming was a direct plug in version so no wires to abuse there. the other one that you had to squeeze was a wire version without the 8 pin plug. i stripped the wires with one of those auto adjusting things that grip the wire so at no point was i actually pulling on the wire and hoping to grip it or use the PCB to stop it moving. it was tested on the ESU decoder tester and by chance during my dissapointment i discovered that squeezing the chip would make it all work. i’m thinking they may have had QC issues like with another newish decoder first batch in recent years which i think was the DH123???
Not sure about the DH123 but I know they had some problems with the first run of the DZ123. They corrected those problems by bringing out the DZ125. I didn’t know they had trouble on the first run of them as well. I got mine after the DZ125 was well established, second or third run.
I don’t think it’s a problem with the decoder, as it worked fine for the first attempt. Then I tried reprogramming the cv’s, and that was when it stopped responding. It’s also hardwired, not a plug in if that helps.
Thanks for your input.
Study the wires carefully and make sure they all go where they are supposed to be, then try a rest. If that doesn’t work, disconnect the lights and try the reset again. You might also try putting a resistor across the rails as the DCC unit may not be ‘seeing’ the decoder for a reset.