I have one that lites up but does not run. I checked it against another super shark & all the wires are soldered correctly & the wheels are also positioned correctly. Anybody have any suggestions how to get it running again. [:)]
Check the lugs that connect to the motor, and try applying current to the motor itself. Do you get any response if you turn the shaft manually with current applied?
That should be one of those huge Roco can motors, which can be opened by removing roll pins that hold the plastic motor ends into the can. It may just be worn brushes or a dirty commutator.
This is going strictly on old memories of the ones I had years ago …
If I recall correctly, the motor was grounded to the frame by a simple naked wire being wrapped under the motor casing pressing against the frame (dumb idea). Make sure oxidation isn’t preventing this wire from grounding properly. On mine, I drilled and tapped a hole in the top of the frame to take a small metal screw to which I attached the ground wire for a more poitive connection.
Failing that, take the obvious steps. Using jumper wires from your power pack, touch them directly to the motor - does it work ? Keep working your way out to the truck wipers and wheel-sets to the point the motor doesn’t run or you find a short. Also, does the motor turn freely by hand with no physical binding ?
Can’t think of much else right off the top of my head - good luck !!!
Mark.
Edit - As for taking the motor apart - those large motors don’t have brushes, they use a pair of bronze wipers on a very small commutator. You CAN take it apart, but getting it back together is a real bit#* !!! That’s why I ended up remotoring mine !!!
That’s right, the earlier versions with the high gear ratio have a grounding wire that gets trapped between the motor and the frame. The later versions with the low ratio gearing have a plastic board above the motor with bronze spring contacts that touch the motor lugs.
Bronze wipers? All of the Roco can motors I’ve opened have large disk-shaped carbon brushes with torsion springs on them. Not hard to get back together at all, though I have had intermittent problems with the Atlas flat can versions.
Told you the gray matter may not have been functioning correctly. You’re correct regarding the original Roco motors - the motor I was referring to was one that I had attempted to use as a repower, not the original … it’s all coming back to me now !!! [:I]
Mark.
Yes there is a ground wire connected to the frame. I did check it out & insured it was making contact. Thanks for the suggestion. I will try the jumper wire suggestion tomorrow when I am back home. Thank U for that suggestion also
OK when I put the power directly to the copper contacts coming out of the motor its runs. Then when I put if back together & put the power onto the contacts that touch the contacts it does not run but the lite goes on. Any new suggestions?
It’s either the grounding wire under the motor, or the clips that slip over the motor lugs/pins. You said that the grounding wire is making good contact - does this mean you can measure a voltage at the clips where you’ve attached them to the motor? If so, lift out the motor, and clean the clips and the pins on the motor with a 600 grit sandpaper, and make sure that the clips snap tightly on the pins. I’m still suspicious of the grounding wire since the bulb picks up current from the frame independent of the motor.
One other thought: Is the plastic strap that holds the motor in place still present? It’s the only thing that keeps the wire in contact with the frame. Hope this helps.
Nah the ones I have are bolted in from the bottom & do not have that plastic thing that like holds the FAs & Es motors in place
Thanks I will try the sandpaper route. Thanks for the suggestion. I changed the ground wire I am sure it is making contact with the frame
Okay, I guess you have an intermediate version. I have an FA with the motor on shock mounts, but there is a plastic “circuit board” above the motor that the wires are soldered to, and sprung contacts reach down and touch the motor pins. Does yours have a flywheel?
You’re just going to have to take a methodical approach to this. The light works, so that tells you the wheel-sets are orientated correctly and the trucks are picking up power - so there is no apparent short.
You say the motor runs when attached to your pack by itself but when installed it doesn’t. If you attach your jumpers directly to the motor after installation, it SHOULD still run as a short would cause the light to go out. Assuming the motor will run with the leads attached, remove the jumper from the ground terminal on the motor and work your way out - touch it to the frame, etc. Then do the reverse with the other jumper until you find a point that the motor doesn’t run. This will be your “missing link” … find where the connection break is at that point.
~Mark.
Thanks a an awful lot for your response. I will totally rewire them because maybe there is a break in one of the wires as the next step one wire at a time. [:)]
Yes mine have the plastic overhead piece & I do have a flywheel also