Hi, I have a 8x5 and I know wood table tops (which is what I have some track on now) and I know that it will not be easy to work with…Any ideas of what to use? I have a small dollar store foam poster board under the track now…But it looks like it is starting to warp…I am looking for something that is under $15.00 a sheet or so. I don’t mind paying a dollar or too more if it will work better…Any advice would be great!
Thanks.
I’m not sure I understand. Is your layout on wood or not? There is nothing at all wrong with wood tabletops, unless they are not sealed and are in a very humid environment. Basically, you will need some form of supporting structure underneath. A lot of us use benchwork consisting of 2x2 legs and 1x2 L-girders every 16" or so. You can attach subroadbed directly to that (leaving the rest of the grid open under your scenery), mount a sheet of 1/2 or 3/8" plywood, or use extruded foam insulation panels (2" thickness is ample). The first option is the most difficult, but would be the cheapest since less material is required. No matter what you do, though, you’re probably closer to $50 than $20, since your layout is slightly larger than a standard piece of plywood or 2 foam panels (these typically come in 2’x8’ panels and run about $20 each). Availability of insulating panels is spotty in the south.
Neither material is hard to work with the right tools. If you’re not going to build benchwork, you can use cabinets or a table (maybe this is what you have done), but tables are usually too low to make a good base. They generally sit 30" high, my layout is at 50". In any case, that piece of cheap foam board is a disaster waiting to happen. Don’t waste any time replacing it with something sturdier.
Really?!?! Wood is better to work with? Your right about me having tables[:$]. Anyway, foam just looks easier than wood as far as scenery goes. I was thinking of putting foam on top of the table. Leme know what you think. Advice would be GREATLY appreciated!
Tony
Wood is good. I’m laying my track on 1/2" plywood. Foam can be good, IF you use the right stuff. Extruded foam is what you want (typically the blue or pink type, though it sometimes comes in other colors). The white expanded “beaded” foam should be avoided. You’ll want minimum 1" thickness, supported (I think) at least every 16". Anything less and you’ll be asking for trouble.
Brad
Foam on top of wood is common, though you do not need much wood if you use 2" foam. Some folks just use a 1"x3" (or 4") every 12" - 24" successfully. Some add a layer of luan (1/4") plywood underneath to protect and attach switch machines to. (You can just glue a piece of 1/4" where the machine is going to go.) You can put it on heavier plywood or other wood surface, but it is sort of overkill. If you just have two older tables that you are going to put the foam on they should be plenty rugged. Might not want to attach the foam to the top with more than a little latex caulk in case you decide to make a more traditional frame under it later. The one thing you should do if you are using foam is to put a protective fascia around the edge to keep the foam from getting damaged.
It is a good idea to seal any wood surfaces to help prevent warping from natural weather changes and moisture that comes with adding scenery.
Good luck,
Richard
You won’t get by for $15, but I’d strongly recommend 2-inch pink or blue foam, too. (Pink and blue foam are the same stuff, different manufacturers.) It’s a big-box hardware store item. It may be hard to find in southern climates, since it’s mostly used for insulation.
You may be able to pick up big scraps at construction sites. Also, if you go to Home Depot and find damaged pieces, ask someone if they’ll give you a few dollars off on them. Works for me.
A couple of thoughts – It’s more than just some plywood – Do whatever it takes to make the layout’s foundation a secure foundation.
Store your wood, plywood, etc. in the layout’s room for a couple of months where the benchwork will be assembled to first dry out, and better adjust to the room’s natural humidity. To minimize potential plywood warping – Consider 5/8" plywood instead of 1/2" plywood – Still cheaper than 3/4" plywood. An exterior plywood grade can also minimize warping.
Screw (never glue) down the plywood to the outer benchwork, and underlying boxgrid benchwork, with more screws than you first feel is necessary to help alleviate potential room humidity.
When it comes to benchwork – I “take no prisoner’s” with 1"x4" outer benchwork; 1"x3" inner benchwork boxgrid, and; spacing of boxgrids are apx. 2’x4’ (or smaller as needed). 1"x4" legs are constructed in an L-shape and placed in each inner/outer layout corner – Each leg when screwed into the benchwork corners uses no less than 6 screws (3/leg-side).
Benchwork foundation strength is now – More than sufficient – Whether one uses plywood, foam, or homasote (my past preference). Foam, homasote, etc. can easily be employed on top of a plywood base specific to its further support, or scenery requirements.
N Scale CR&T must use plywood as a base due to the primary need to secure traction poles “without wiggles” from the stress of soldering overhead wiring. In other words, there’s no choice but to use plywood for its’ inherent strength. However, this also lends itself to a cookie-cutter table-top (