I have learned a lot by watching Cody, and other model railroading experts and tips, thanks guys
Very helpful series many thanks for your help
Look forward every month to Cody’s tips…Thanks so much and please keep it up.
Even though resin-core solder has flux in it, I’ve always gotten better results applying flux, as Cody does here.
Cody’s method is indeed electrically sound, but cosmetically clumsy. Furthermore, the hole for the wire should be drilled through the sub-roadbed first to facilitate fishing the wire, which should be brought up from below before soldering the wire to the rail.
For completely invisible feeder wires, solder them to the underside of rail joiners (every 3’ or so) and feed them down through the sub-roadbed via small holes directly beneath the joiners as track gets laid. This method is extremely reliable electrically, and even before the track receives ballast they’ll be undetectable.
Simple when you know! I’ve struggled soldering feeder wires to rails for some time now, but watching your technique makes it easy. Thanks, Cody!!!
One tip on soldering the joiners, which works great by the way, use a piece on N scale track for a jig. Slip the HO joiners over the track, turn it over and solder away.
To help with heat transfer from the soldering iron to the wire and or track. I place a small bead of solder on the tip of the iron first. I also tin the rail before placing the wire.
Good job - nice refresher always pick something up from your tips! Thanks again
I prefer to drill the hole in the bench work first and insert the wire. Make a SMALL bend and flatten. This keeps it closer to the bottom of the track. I do not put solder on the iron as it makes too much solder transfer to the rail. I just use fine solder rather than the big stuff. Just make sure your iron is tinned (light coating of solder on the iron and wipe with a sponge.
) After you are done, clean off the solder joint, then add a bit of black paint to make it disappear.
Thumb’s-Up, Greg Jones!
Also a good idea, to use alligator clips, attached directly to the rail (spaced a few inches apart), on either side of where you are soldering, to help dissapate the heat…