The name’s been changed but the purpose remains the same. Why call it a Forum & Symposium? Well, according to Merriam-Webster online dictionary, a forum is " a medium (as a newspaper or online service) of open discussion or expression of ideas" or alternatively “a program involving discussion of a problem usually by several authorities.” It defines symposium as a “a social gathering at which there is free interchange of ideas.” That’s what this will set out to be - a place for modelers to post pictures of their work where an open discussion and exchange can take place.
Modelers are encouraged to post pictures of their work so they can receive objective feedback about it. To be perfectly clear, when you post something here you understand that it may be critiqued and commented on. Some of those comments will be postive, some will be negative. It is acceptable to say that you do not like something, but explain what you don’t like, and try to provide suggestions on how to improve it. This is not an open invitation to lob grenades at people.
There is no artificial limit on how pictures a participant can post - common sense and good judgement should rule the day. Simply post the minimum number of pictures you believe are necessary to provide the viewer with a feel for what you want discussed and reviewed. Subjects can be either about modeling or about photographic technique. For those on the fringe, wondering about participating, stick your toe in the water and post something. When you post include a brief descrption of the work - scale, model, technique, or item you want comments on, for example.
Based on comments from last weekend, there are enough forum members who want to have such a place. Unlike the previous thread, there is no reason to limit this to occurring just on a weekend, the forum will be ongoing and con
Heres a pic of my almost complete “Trailer Park” & Camp grounds. I just added a Pepsi machine for those who need a little “pick me up” in the caffeine department. I don’t yet have a complete backdrop so a wide shot is out of the question for now. One thing I don’t like is the “shiny” base my little people are standing on. For now I want to move them around so I’m not ready to glue them Permanently.
Very nice work on the SW1000 so far…I’ll be watching for pictures of the completed project. It’s nice to find an intellectually stimulating thread in this forum…
I’m a steam kitbasher in N scale. Here are my three kitbashed steam engines simmering quietly together at LEW Interlocking (click to enlarge):
From left to right:
H10sb 2-8-0 #8756. It’s a Bachmann Spectrum chassis with a chopped-down Minitrix K4 boiler and a B6sb cab. The tender is also modified. I did an article for the NTrak Steam Information Book (addendum) on it. TCS M1 DCC.
L1s 2-8-2 #762. Kato Mike with the GHQ pewter and brass conversion kit for the boiler, cab, and tender. Still DC.
M1 4-8-2 #6811. You guys saw me build this step by step. Extended Spectrum 4-8-2 frame, spliced K4 boilers/fireboxes with new running boards and scratchbuilt pilot, “facelift,” and K4 KW trailing truck. 210F75 tender on extended CC J3a tender frame, spliced K4 tender shells, GMM Trainphone antenna, scratchbuilt doghouse and induction coils. Digitrax DCC.
All 3 locos have Alkem Scale Models number plates.
Each represents a compromise in things such as valve gear or driver diameter. But the overall length, height, wheelbase, etc. is pretty close (within 1 N scale foot) for these engines.
For anyone interested in modeling the Pennsylvania, an invaluable resource is the free online e-magazine of the PRR Technical & Historical Society, The Keystone Modeler:
I’ve been fortunate enough to have some of my locomotives and a hopper car appear in various TKM issues.
Scanning these e-mags quickly dispells any notion that “modeling the Pennsy” is little more than simply slapping a keystone on a random car. These guys have serious talent and take modeling to a level that leaves me in awe!
Another source of PRR prototype modeling is the PRRPro Yahoo modeling group:
We all work on a single project voted by the group. Coming up next is the H-class consolidation (I’ve already finished mine!). The last complete project was the PRR X31/X31a class boxcar.
Nice pics all!
Driline- If I may make a suggestion? Your scenes look excellent, but you may want to consider trimming those field grass tufts down a little bit. Yours appear to be about 7-8’ tall. I’ve always observed grass like that is generally only knee or waist high.
Just an observation…[:)]
'…when you post something here you understand that it may be critiqued and commented on…Subjects can be either about modeling or about photographic technique.’
Regarding the two SW model photos – since a Digital Rebel was used, can one assume that you have access to and experience with photo editing software? If so, the shots could be greatly improved, for the purpose of displaying the model’s details, by the following:
Place the model on light gray poster board. The histograms for the two shots are bimodal, the first one to the extent that there is little midrange. Your matrix metering is overwhelmed by the white background, which reduces or eliminates visibility of any details below and including the black walkway.
To overcome the above problem displayed in these shots, reduce the contrast and increase the brightness in your editing software. In PS (Elements or CS), -5 or so and +10 or so, respectively, make details in black and shadowed areas visible. Yes, this decreases the ‘drama’ often associated with a contrasty pic, but is your primary purpose to evoke an emotional response or to convey modelling information? The contrast and brightness adjustments also reduce some of the tint on the white background.
Crop out useless or distracting information. The overhead shot should be trimmed on the top and sides, if for no other reason than to reduce wasted bandwidth. The side shot suffers greatly from brightly colored clutter at the top.
Under Levels, use the white point dropper on the background to eliminate the remaining pink/tan tint. This will also remove most of the offending tint from the model.
Apply an Unsharp Mask filter. Your pics are in focus but still soft; applying the filter on the overhead shot (try something around 350-0.7-10) brings out edge details along, for example, the roof panels and walkway pattern without imparting sharpening artifacts. A similar adjustment also brings out highlights to better define the
Here’s the things I can find wrong with it. (I know that isn’t the purpase of this thread[;)])
Train acceleration/decelleration are too fast. That BSRX rock train stopped at an emergancy brake application speed. (It doesn’t run too smoothly, and it would look even worse if it hit a dead spot) and the trains are WAY too short!
I’ve been putting off this project for over a year.
The concrete retaining wall and bridge have been showing up more frequently in my pictures, and I decided it was finally time to do something about it. All that white plastic was starting to really bug me.
I’m using graphic line tape to mask off the street lines, so the first thing I did was hit it with a coat of primer, followed by some yellow on the road surface.
Once the yellow dried, I placed the mask for yellow line in the middle of the road. I used some scale cars to estimate the lane width. The wider lane allows for curbside parking.
Next I shot the road surface with alternating mists of grey, and flat black to get an aged asphalt look. The paint was still pretty wet when I shot this, hence the thick appearance and sheen. After the paint dried, I used some blue painters tape to mask off the road surface so I could paint the sidewalks and railings a concrete color.
I’ve got more work to do to finish the scene, including adding some weathering washes, some foliage, and maybe some climbing ivy, and a middle pier for the highway bridge. The road surface will also be weathered in, and the patch I made for re-using the bridge will have to be painted.
I plan to finish off the scene with working street lights, and a row of building facades against the backdrop. Then the fun stuff like parking meters, strolling pedestrians etc. This scene will represent the city of Hagerstown, so I want it be a busy scene, even though it’s re
The concrete railings are from Rix. Fortunately he sells them separately. His price for the bridge kits is a little rich for my blood. I can accomplish the same thing with a couple bucks worth of styrene and a spray can…
