That’s a good side layout and -if my math isn’t off-you should have 18" curves which is a very wide curve and 80’ cars should look rather nice…
I’m not sure if I would want to body mount the couplers on those 80’ cars though…Many would but,I’m gun shy when it comes to body mounting couplers on 80’ and longer cars regardless of scale but,that’s my old school thinking for HO curves less then 30-36" and 24"-26" curves in N…
I have modeled in both scales and still like N even though I gave N up last fall for several reasons.
Fairly new to this forum and have used the search function with mixed results. The problem with most forums, regardless of the subject, is thread “creep”. That is, invariably the original intent of the OP tends to get lost after numerous replies. This sometimes makes searches rather difficult. With the use of on-line “how to” videos most of my question can be easily answered not just by text, but by actual visual demonstrations. This was basically not available back in the 1970s and 1980s unless one purchased the fleetingly available VHS or DVDs.
I seen outstanding 4x8 layouts. This is what sustains the hobby as it entices new blood infused into the community. Eventually some will either expand or rebuild larger layouts depending on available space and most importantly the probability of completing a larger layout.
That would totally depend on the topic of the thread. If it is another what’s your roster, or what’s your railroad’s made up history, I actually prefer someone bring up the old ones as they don’t really get old. Which is the “best” type threads do get old as the products come and go.
Depends what the question is, Brakie. Some questions might not have a “wrong” answer, or at least not a single “right” answer.
However some questions most definitely do have a single right answer (example: show a picture of an engine, wondering “what kind of engine is this?”). I’ve seen many cases of this sort of thing (all over the place, not just here) where the question will be answered correctly, and in detail, and yet 10 posts futher down the line some moron is still throwing out what is obviously no more than a random guess because it’s so completely wrong. (Although the guessing poster makes no indication that he doesn’t really know what he’s talking about, so God help the poor newbie who’s trying to figure out what this thing is and gets 5 completely different answers all from people who appear to be quite sure what it is.)
The original HO 4x8 plan is a folded dogbone with a mix of 15" and 18" radius. The tightest mainline radius on my N scale version would be a 13" although most of the curves are larger. The 13" radius is pushing it as far as operating N scale 80’ foot cars but I hope I can make it work. If it does’t work, I will be still be satisfied with 40’-50’ cars.
My simple reply will be ( say) That’s a GP38-2-I also mention railroaders must not know either since they put the locomotive type under the number on the cab…They usually get a chuckle out of that…I leave off the advanced-phase 3 with blah,blah,blah…The phase type and detail can come later-its a milk now and meat later thing.
I have notice a lot of newbies already have the basic understanding about building a simple 4x8 layout with 2 or 3 sidings since most train sets includes some form of track plan as a sales pitch for the purchase of more track and switches…
My brother in law wanted DCC from the start since he read about in MR and I showed him Bachmann’s DCC videos on you tube since it covered the basics.I explain the basic CV settings.I did steer him toward a Digitrax Zephyr though.
Today’s newbie can get volumes of information from you tube from track laying to decoder install and may never find the need to join a forum,buy MR,RMC or a how to modeling book…
A legitimate “how do I…” post can often get a comprehensive set of advice in a few answers. The number of answers is no gaurantee of quality. The number of views is often indicitive of the general interest of the subject or how dramatic the title is.
Another factor is how the OP interacts with the people who post. Most “how do I…” threads, the OP is looking for feedback and it happy to get answers. The OP may post follow up questions but in most cases will not get into a disagreement with the responders. The people answering the question are more likely to get into an arguement with each other as they offer competeing or contradictory answers. Most of that is caused when the original question is very general or vague, allowing a wide range of answers. A very direct question gets a very direct answer. One caution is that i quite often see a question answered with one most common answer (that covers 99% of the circumstances) followed by 20 edge case answers that while technically “correct”, are atypical of what normally happens (falling into the remaining 1%).
The “What I did…” posts are a different animal. The poster isn’t asking directly for feedback. The phenomenon regarding the number of replies is directly related to how the OP deals with feedback, especially suggestions to modify or improve the proc
Hopefully newbies have enough common sense to evaluate the responses they get to their questions. As a newbie a couple of years ago I asked a question about using brass track that started a flame and I got many and numerous responses. I did more research and finally made my decision taking into account all the pros and cons.
The post that get me is someone who is working on their layout on a particular problem and want the answer right now so they can continue. Now if they take the first answer they get they will have a 50/50 chance of it being right or at least solving the problem without doing major damage. If they wait a day or two and evaluate all the responses they may have a much better chance of choosing the best solution.
Sometimes, when you step back and look at things in total, you can see that their replies and tone can suggest they are even cleverly disguising a cordial trolling for conflict.
Those threads tend to linger because the trolling goes undetected compared to those that are more direct and less cordial.
Or they can go to you tube and watch a video on how its done in less time it takes to do a topic and wait on the replies and the difference of opinions it brings.
The newbie has options that has never been available before and I think they may be a tad smarter then ever before.
I’ve had non modeling teenagers during the week of the fair ask about DCC and how sound works…
How did they find out?
When I ask that question I was told “I saw it on you tube”.
I always like to show the other side of the coin for consideration since there’s always other possible ways of doing things…Nothing in this hobby is cut and dry since there’s several correct answers to the same question…
I know of two right now…Your way and my way and both ways are correct.Now add 2 or more pages of opinions then you have the trigger for a discussion.
Things can be discussed without being called “trolling”.
Larry, I understand that conflict and differences of opinion is not considered trolling.
But if a person posts a response with the intent of picking a fight, I consider that trolling. Sometimes in a discussion with differing opinions, you can tell the difference between a response that is sincere, and one that has a hidden purpose.
Agreed…I’ve seen both types and have in times pass been accused of trolling only because my opinion was the other side of the coin that is seldom mention…Of course some of my thoughts goes against the grain but,I just happen to know they work and if it didn’t I would never mention it.
I won’t answer DCC or electrical questions because I know just enough about DCC to get what I need done…Electrial…Want advice on wiring a Atlas selector or Atlas switch controller? [:-,] That’s where my electrical knowledge bus stops and that’s all I need to know.I can run a bus and drop feeders but,I prefer controllers for block wiring-1 wire to each block…Simple no?
My DCC wiring been 2 wires to the track .That works quite well for small ISLs and probably 4x8’ layouts.
Just for your records, I like ISL’s, sectional track, and prefer DC control with few electrical complications. My ISL is about 35 feet long, with two loops at each end for continuous running for simple display. It may not look like the typical switching layout, but it operates the same. The size presents some issues that aren’t typically found in layouts with such a simplistic operating scheme, so I have gotten use to needing to forge my own path to accomplish some things. Conventional solutions that are typically offered for a layout of my size end up being way overkill for my situation, because the operation is different than normal.
I have about 100 feet of track. Probably 25 percent is sectional for various reasons that suit me.
Let me use your angle if I may, Just because someone is doing something different than everyone else doesn’t make it a good idea. There must be some knowledge and experience to >improve< on what there already is. Key word here…>improve<
So I want go ahead and make square wheels because the round ones are just too darn expensive. Would you hop on board that build thread too?
(maybe I should put in disclaimer so no one can sue me first?)
And…DC is much less expensive to implement. I may have added way too many blocks in my 1x4 N-scale layout, but I wanted future flexibility. I have a companion 1x4 staging yard for later use.
Keeping with the spirit of this thread, is the trend to move everything towards DCC?
The laws of mathematics and physics. There are many answers to the questions people ask that involves the simple application of Ohm’s law, Watt’s law, application of geometry, or trigonometry. The answer is the answer regardless of what anyone else “judges”. The answer to, “Can I put an 18” radius loop of track on a 2 foot table" is no.
TZ, By golly I guess I missed the train because in my 55 plus years in the hobby I never had to use those laws…In fact I been out of school for so long I have long forgotten those laws since I never used them in life.
A MRC power pack and two wires is basically what I been using even with by old DCC on my past ISLs and few loop layouts…I’m now using a MRC Tech 6 and yup-two wires to the track…
When I do use blocks Atlas selectors gets the job done.Even wiring a Tortoise switch machine doesn’t require a degree in electronics.