Most model railroad mainlines have track on a raised roadbed. However in some areas, especially urban areas, tracks are not only not raised above the ground but the ties are practically invisible - they are flush with the ground, all that can be seen is the rail protrucing from the ground…Such as this pic below (UP Coast Line main in San Luis Obispo, CA):
How does one model this kind of track and especially how does one sucessfully transition from raised roadbed track to this kind of track?
You model it by keeping the area around the tracks on the same level as the tracks. Sheet cork works well for this because the area adjacet to the tracks is the same level (almost) and yet you get the sound deadening of the cork. Then you just build up the dirt to where the ties just show. Lastly, you follow the prototype in how they do the transition.
I visited a rug retailer and acquired a length of vinyl underlay that is 1/4" thick and 3’ in width. It is yellow. I glued it to the plywood used to support my yard, placed the tracks and turnouts, and then I sprinkled real dirt and sand in a thin layer up to the tops of the ties in and around the tracks. Then, I weathered it all with a mixture of plaster and tempura powder a la Joe Fugate. To replicate the clinkered look, I used mostly black. Sometime in the next few weeks, I hope to have some photos of my new layout, and you can judge for yourselves if the look meets your needs. Sorry I can’t post them sooner.
I am building a switching layout where the track goes from main line (interchange track) to pickup track to switches and spurs. What I am doing is using stacked cork (1/16" thick gasket cork you can get in auto parts stores). Since this is just a secondary main, regular commercial cork roadbed was too high, so I stacked two levels of cork; the top layer being slightly more narrow than the “base” layer. The pickup track is lower, with only one layer of this cork. Then the switches and spurs are right on the plywood; I know most modelers don’t lay track right on the plywood but this will not be a high speed, high traffic area and noise will not be a factor here.
I intend to transition from ballast on the corked areas then to cinders in the tracked areas that are attached to the plywood. I will keep applying cinders on the track and around the general area until I get the desired depth to either to partially cover or completely cover the ties in this area.
The transition from “high iron” to sidings, spurs and switches is done in a “stair-step” fashion; the “step” should be at least 1" if you’re modeling in HO. I suggest you go out to some tracks in your area where there is a main that has some switches off of it and look at these transitions in track bed as well as from ballast to cinders or dirt.
Look for threads on using tile grout and sand as ballast. I just started one yesterday and I think there’s an old one on trainboard.com
I’m using WS foam glued to a pink foam base. For yard tracks, it looks like applying sanded grout with a foam brush buries the tracks nicely. Since I’m modeling in N-scale, my problems are how to easily get it off the ties for high profile mainlines and how to keep it out of the rail webs so I don’t have to dig it out with a dental pick while it’s still wet.
I think it would be easier for HO and grout is a lot cheaper than any commercial ballast. Follow the safety instructions because grout does contain Portland cement.
From the modelling point of view the appearance of the ballast and the level (vertical position) of the track do not need to vary in the same way as the real thing.
Okay… that divides into two parts.
1.
Model RR ballast is purely cosmetic and, most of the time, we only look at the top layer. Therefore however you make up your normal ballasting to whatever height is good. This applies whatever the depth (or lack of depth) of the ballast is compared to the ties. What is more likely to change is what you choose to use as the ballast material and how you “weather” it.
If you can find my earlier posts on ballast in this and the old forum (try under “David Foster” in the old forum… and if you find it PLEASE let me know how) you will find tons of stuff on ballast colour, shape and more.
From what you describe you are looking to give the impression of:-
Unless you want to change the levels of your track these can be represented with the rail head maintaining a constant height and level… you just move the “cosmetics” up or down in relation to the ra