Modeling railroading on a limited budget

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

Can it be done?

When I was younger my father paid for everything so cost wasn’t an issue back then. Now it’s been almost 20 years since the HO layout I had. I still have a bunch of the stuff, but I don’t have the room to set it up.

Well a friend of mine had given me some N Scale stuff and my kids have been asking about setting it up. So finally I picked up some track so we could get this running. I have to admit I’m slowly getting back into it. The only difference besides the change in scale is that it’s my own money this time. Walking into the hobby store and looking at the cost of some of this stuff – wow!! It sure would be easy to spend a ton of money on this hobby.

So here’s my question. For those of us who weren’t born into a wealthy family, didn’t win the lottery or aren’t athletes with a multi-million dollar contract, how do you manage to enjoy and expand your model railroad without having to take out a second mortgage? [;)]

Seriously, I was looking at some of the N Scale engines which were between $75-$100. While it’s not that I can’t afford it, I would have to save up for an expenditure like that. Then I’m reading about stuff that costs $500 on up, unbelievable! So how does everyone else manage?

2

I sure HOPE it can be done on a budget - cuz that’s what I’m doing.

I have some space in the basement, and I’m going to start a railroad with my kids. It’s going to be interesting to reconcile my standards with the capabilities of a 10 and 7 year old :wink:

I’m going to take it slow… Lumber’s not too expensive. Scenery materials can be done in multiple ways. The biggest expenses, IMO, are locos and and control - power packs or DCC or whatever.

The only thing that might need to be purchased in one lump would be track. I would want to be able to lay enough track to actually run trains.

After that… a (relatively) cheap power pack can be used for testing and basic running of trains, while saving up for something nicer.

Locos can be acquired one at a time.

As long as your tastes don’t run to brass imports, and you don’t plan on using Fine Scale Miniatures craft kits for every building on the pike, you should be OK.

Just remember to take it slow. Don’t try to save to buy everything you want all at once - that could take forever.

Also, you can get some cheaper stuff, and then upgrade later.

Hope this helps.

Rob

3

I’m cheap! In the low income bracket too and try and save 25 to 33% on locos/rolling stock and I have been doing that for six years thru trainworld or standard.

Disadvanatages, can’t pre-test, out of the box could have a problem & then return shipping charges . Know the back order procedure, replacement return, expenses & manufacturer
warranty.

Generally I limit my mail order to quality/creditable manufacturers but we are not exempt to lemons.

4

There are still some good deals to be had at trainshows, but some items at some vendors may be non-working. (So it’s a risk at some vendor tables.)
Some hobby shops have a ‘used’ or consignment section with lower cost items. A good hobbyshop will put even a used or consignment locomotive on their test track for you to observe.
One can still get ‘poorly assembled’ building & bridge kits at half retail ( at shows or hobbyshop used tables also)…then you gently take them apart and do them right.
regards / Mike

5

I’ve been in the same boat budget-wise. I too model N-scale, and if it were not for the fact that I had most of my track left over from an attempt at building a layout 15 years ago (when I had more money, and things costed less), I would not have had much of a hope to get back in so fast.

Yes, the cost can be staggering. That is my biggest complaint about this hobby! $90-110 for a loco??? [:0] [xx(] Please!! Spin Again! [:(!]

Thankfully, I found something that has helped me stay in the game: ebay! [^]

You have to be patient and highly disciplined, but some really good deals can be found. I once picked up a pair of brand new Atlas locos for less than the MSRP on one (and that included freight!).

I also frequent the clearance bins at the local hobby shops. I’m not too proud to admit that I’m a real penny-pincher and refuse to pay MSRP for most anything. This usually draws a snicker or two, but that’s their problem!

Looking at the prices of the newer releases, I think that MRR’ing is fast becoming (or has already become) a rich man’s hobby. My plea with the manufacturers is to get a grip and reign in your swelling prices. I suspect there are a great many of us who will quickly fall out of the hobby if this price escalation continues on for much longer.

6

Sure it can.

And it can be done without buying junk and without resorting to using crappy substitutes. JUST do more with less. Modeling a particular day and place eliminates a whole bunch of “gotta haves.” (Well, don’t choose Cheyenne in 1952!)

Choosing a method of operation that uses single locomotives over long strings will save a lot. (Fewer locomotives needed, less temptation to do DCC)

Resorting to “traditional” means of making scenery will save a good deal over the costs of labor saving foam products. Plenty of Kalmbach books on scenery and layout construction. (Available at your local library!)

Don’t cheap out on lumber and track. You’ll have too many derailments to get any love from the hobby.

Do learn how to make things. You might not save money, but you’ll get more hours of pleasure.

7

Well,here is what you can do.
Use Athearn loco and cars.You can use the P1K locos as well.MDC/Roundhouse ,Accurail and the Branch line “Yardmaster” series can save yo money as well.
You can use the cheaper brand of flex track and in some cases switches.
Shop on the internet for the better prices.
Check around for good used locomotives-Did not pay more the 33% of the cost of a new locomotive for a used one.REMEMBER! IT IS A USED ENGINE! Buy use cars as well.These can be picked up at most train shows.Stay away from the train set cars as they will cause you grief.A train set car has truck mounted couplers.

Hers is what you don’t really need.

  1. DCC and the added cost of the decoders.Don’t let the DCC flag wavers tell you its cheap as DC. IT IS NOT!!! I know I use DCC.Remember with each new /used locomotive you buy you will need a $20.00 or more decoder.
    2.State of the art $25.00-35.00 cars…
    3.high dollar track and switches like Peco and Walthers…
  2. Unless you know the current prices stay far away from e bay…You see you may pay more then you can buy them for on the internet.BE WISE AND NOT FOOLISH.Know your prices and should you use E bay watch your bidding and never get caught up in the bidding and over bid.Watch for shell bidding it does happen.

You can model on a budget…Remember to think like a short line.Buy your locos and cars as cheaply as possible…One more time stay far away from train set quality cars and engines.

8

Here are a couple of thoughts.

On my HO railroad-in-progress I’m using the stuff from when I was young. I’ll do what I can to keep it running.

COnstruction styrofoam sheet insulation can be found at your local recycling center. Natural (i.e. backyard) materials can be used to cover it.

If you focus on a layout with many industries (which doesn’t necessarily mean many switches) you can run a small selection of a few cars, with minimal motive power, keeping costs down. Yes, I agree, the cost of a locomotive is out of hand, but $15.00 to $100 for mass-produced rolling stock!

Forget dcc and go block control. A couple toggle switches and extra wire and you are in business.

Buildings can be scratch built more cheaply than kits. I have even made mine from pressboard (cereal boxes) until I can place the building I want there. Don’t forget to buy extra sheet styrene so you can make one building out of two kits when you get to that point. I haven’t done it yet, but can definitely see the possibilites. If you place your structures on an angle, why model the back two side against the backdrop? You can obscure the view from the side with scenery.

Also, look for alternative materials for roadbed to save on cork. MR had an article about pickup cap tape in the recent issue.

Our budget is an opportunity for creativity, though it sure would be nice if some manufacturers were reading this thread.

9

Wow, I cant disagree more, I run G gauge (not cheap) and most of my stuff came from e-bay. My Scottish ancestors would howl from thier graves if I bought new.

The secret is to know your price point. Heres what ya do.

  1. If your looking for new stuff, get a current model RR mag. scan the adds for prices of what your interested in, then add the shipping cost to that. that will tell you how much it would cost new + shipping.
  2. go to e-bay and search, scroll, lolygag, whatever until you fing what your interested in. Check to see it seller has included shipping cost in their post, most do.
  3. How much are you willing to pay? add sellers shipping to that then place your bid based on what you are willing to pay+shipping based on what you know the price for new+shipping is, say bid 20% less than new. Make that figure your max bid then wait.
  4. if someone out bids you, keep looking, you’ll always find more. if you win you’ve saved 20% over new.

If got LGB locos new for $50!

10

A Budget? What’s that. We are in model trains aren’t we?

11

You are right, good stuff costs, but in defense all hobbies cost. I have friends who race stockcars at a local dirt track, they think nothing of spending 10 grand on an engine. Golf guys spend money out on the course and for clubs. RC guys spend more on a car or plane than I spend on a whole train. I limit myself to $20 a week. I save up to get my stuff. The Museum of Science and Industry spent like 5 million on their layout. I know I can’t compete with that. So spend what you can and don’t worry about "the Jones’ ". Also, got to Walther’s website and get their sale cataloge sent to you. I have seen items 50% off. Also, good local hobby shops will ususually honor the Walther’s Terminal Hobby Shop Sale price if you show them nicely to the owner. ONE LAST FREE ADVISE THING… RESIST BUYING ‘toy’ CHEAP EQUIPMENT. I WOULD RATHER HAVE 1 GOOD RUNNING AND LOOKING ITEM THAN 5 OR 10 HUNKS OF CHEAP, STALLING OUT, DERAILING, OUT OF SCALE CRAP.

12

You can do lots on a minimum budge, but unfortunately it requires some degree of skill, BUT… if you can post at a local hobby shop that you are looking to join a modal RR club or group and are accepted, snap it up. If you can join a group, its kind of like an apprenticeship. Here is why I recommend a group to get skills:

  1. Save money by scratch building
  2. Save money by building your own track and turnouts
  3. Save money building your own throttles
  4. Save money using free stuff or almost free stuff out there, for example, river silt, sand (especially train sand), rocks, colourful dirt from all over
  5. Make your own trees

There are more, but in all of these you need some skill. Now trees are easy to learn, and so what if you blow it, they are so cheap.

A friend of mine did all of the above I have listed. His layout is one of the “cheapest” around, but by the way, it is also the best layout around as well.

The river silt he used in his yards.

He built his own throttles.

Train engine sand was used for ballast.

He used spruce plywood but no road bed, the spruce takes spikes beautifully.

All his track is hand laid, including the double slip with “operating frogs.”

One of his structures he scratch built made it into the feature modeller section of the Feb issue of MR 1980. I would say his entire layout cost about $500 (spread out over time) but it occupies about 2/3’s of a basement. So great layouts can be built cheaply, but you have to know what you are doing.

First there is so much wood out there available for free, or next to nothing, you should be able to get benchwork up fairly cheaply. Buy track and turnouts at shows and buy second hand track and turnouts.

At one point I was broke but I wanted to make a structure. So I found a pill container, added car body putty on top of it and shaped in smooth but domed, and turned it into a water

13

I had a roommate who was big into RC aircraft , talk about BIG BUCKS! Imaging taking your $1000 custom handbuilt locomotive to an altitude of two hundred feet then dropping the thing nose first into concrete[xx(]. Happens all the time in RC, I dont know how they put up with it.[?]

14

Most of my hobby revolves around collecting locomotives, of which they need to be the rare and scarce kind that only one or two railroads had. This puts a me in a bind as they are only made in brass. I usually end up putting a model on layaway for a few months aand breaking up the cost that way say a $100 or so every month. Not bad when you look at the big picture of hobbyists and what they spend a month. The real problem is that prices continue to sky rocket so I usually buy models that are older, late 80’s to early 90"s. I also have purchased "O’ scale loco(MTH) that are quite expensive. I do the same budgeting a purchase, sort of like leasing a car, prices tend to be the same. LOL If a models announced I setup a layaway with someone before the model arrives and pay on it monthly like I did with my last Challenger $125 a month for six months before it arrives then after I have 90 days to pay it off. Works out quite well. The only problem is there is TOO much to choose from. This works if you only have one model you want, but it seems manufactures are coming out with so much I really can’t make this work anymore. Layaways work but unfortunately not many hobby stores deal with these because they’re headaches. With the prices reaching wht they are on some locomotives. Lionels Ho Challenger for example. I don’t see any other way to make purchases… By all means don’t use credit cards in this hobby. They are VERY dangerous.

15

Vsmith,I have seen locomotives and cars go higher on e bay then what you could buy them for on the internet…Yes there is some deals on e bay but there is alot that isn’t. again KNOW YOUR PRICES!!! You just may find that hot deal just turn ice cold.

16

garage sales. train shows. auctions. I have picked up a bunch of good deals. Dont
knock train sets. Just make sure you weight the cars properly. And dont forget the
advertisers in our magazines. There are a lot of special deals. Dont be in ahurry to
get that expensive loco or car, wait a bit the price usually comes down. And if you
miss it, another got to have will pop up. Just enjoy the hobby.Quality time with kids
cant be beat. Best wishes- Trainman36.

17

[;)]I’ve seen it too I, I’ve seen stuff go for much, much higher than retail.

Thats why I said you have to have a price point and research $$ of what your looking for. Figure out that maximum price including shipping that your willing to spend. I set a fixed maximum that I’m willing to pay (often way less than retail) set that as my max bid and see what happens. If I’m outbid by some body I dont sweat it. If they’re stupid enough to get in a bidding war and pay more than its worth thats their fault.[:D]

Bidding on ebay takes alot of patience. You are not going to win every auction, some times it can takes months between those great deals, but if your not in a hurry, you’d be surprised what deals there are. I’m in G guage, and there is a derth of suppliers(100+/-) compared to N, HO, or O (1000’s) yet I’ve still gotten a lot of good stuff there. just dont rush it.[:)]

The only stuff I’ll bid high on is discontinued or collector items, and only after trying to find out what its real value is. It is Caveat Emptor on ebay but its not as scary as it sounds. [8D]

18

Vsmith I think we are agreeing but using different words? Anyway,I keep a eye on E bay and have place some bids and back off when the item goes above my bid limit or the price I know I can buy it for on the net…

Cheers!

19

For those that are on a budget, going to the train shows is a very good way to purchase quality engines and cars a resonable prices. Many times I have found people selling of their own collections as they are changing scales or are selling off estates. This is the time to make deals. A number of times I have ask what they would take for a whole box of cars instead of buying just 1 or 2. The price per cars usually about half thair asking price as they want to get rid of the stuff. If they won’t deal move on as the next person will!

Also do not overlook the toy train cars as they can be made to operate very well by replacing the trucks and adding Kadee couplers. True they are not high in detail but they can be a stand in until the budget allows better cars. Then pass them down to a younger person and get the kids into trains!

BOB H Clarion, PA

20

You have to watch shipping charges on ebay. Some charge $10 or more to ship an item that costs $8 new at your local hobby shop. I have also seen people selling brass track and thinking that because it was brass that was worth more than nickel silver. And lots of old christmas train stuff being sold and bought by people without a clue. Our local hobby shop sell old AHM, tyco, bachmann, and model power locos for $5 to $10 dollars… not $30 or more because it’s “vintage model railroad equipment from the estate of a collector”. I have a rare vintage Bachmann F-7 in SantaFe Cheif decor with genuine chrome plated cab I would part for for $30 if anyone is interested.