Modeling Water Question

This is NOT a question about how to use Woodland Scenic’s Realistic Water, as I have seen other topics about that and don’t need to repeat it. However, I do have a related question. My waterway goes right to the edge of the layout. I have put up fascia boards made of masonite, and the waterway is completely insulated including the area where it meets up with the fascia. However, were I to pour the water into the river area it would spill out onto the floor. I was then going to just clamp another piece of masonite over the edge of the fascia until the water set then remove it, almost like a dam. But then I thought either the wood would become permanently attached to the layout OR when removing it I would shatter the water.

What should I do? Wrap the dam in something like waxed paper or clear plastic wrap? Coat it in pam cooking spray? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!

Ben

I used Scotch masking tape as a dam. After the “water” cured, I just peeled it off.

The scotch tape sounds like a good idea,
I remember in a book by Rick Selby that he used wax paper, but he used Enviro-Tex
Not sure if it’ll work for WS RW.

Sorry i cant offer more help
Siddharth

I used children’s modeling clay . The rough surface at the layout edge prevented tape. This didn’t work well. If you have a flat surface the tape would work. I have a web article about fun with Realistic Water at:

http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/rushing_water/

Thank you if you visit
Harold

I’ve used 2 layers painters’ masking tape, either the blue kind or the green kind. It sticks to everything around the end of the waterway and forms a good seal. Nothing much sticks to wax paper, but not being adhesive, it could leave a tiny crack along the edge somewhere.

Painter’s tape it is, and I will check out that website Harold. Thanks all! Ben

Or you could clamp the wood there as you originally thought but cover the side where the water would touch with vaseline. I havent tried it personally but it was one of the options offered to me when I posted a similar question.

Let us know how it works whichever way you go.

Karl.

I have always used a dam sealed with petroleum jelly. This seals the seams temporarily and nothing sticks to it.

Ron

man, there sure are tons of small bubbles. I poured it super slow and thin and didn’t shake the bottle. There must be a hundred. I don’t think I can pop them all. I might have to cover the top with clear accrylic to hide them.

Ben

The bubbles can be ‘agitated’ out by blowing a hairdryer gently across the surface I believe, but be careful not to get too close. Although I guess it has dried by now looking at the time of your post. Maybe do another thin pour when that one has set up. If you are using epoxy, which I dont think you are, reading between the lines in the first post a good tip is to microwave the two liquids for 20ish seconds before mixing. This will thin the 2 parts considerably making mixing/pouring easier and delay the cure time alowing more time to TRY and get rid of any bubbles.

Have fun & be safe.
Karl.