If a manufacturer were to provide numbers with their unnumbered locomotive models, would you prefer dry transfer numbers or decals? Please vote then share your comments below.
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I know there must be a trick to applying dry transfers that I haven’t learned, because I have never been able to get them to stick, or they break apart, when applied according to the instructions that come with them. Decals require a little more work to get them to adhere properly, but they don’t tend to break apart as easily as the dry transfers. Maybe the dry transfers I have tried to use were too old and dry? The dry Arizona climate is probably not good for them, either, as far as long-term storage is concerned.
Decals, Decals, Decals… Dry transfers can be a hugely royal pain in the …well, you know…to install, especially in tight places like number boards on the sides of a PA-1 for example. Wet decals work FAR better in those circumstances plus wet decals can be moved around prior to final placement, drys, it one time only.
Decals as they apply faster than dry transfers. But only so long as the numbers are printed on a decal sheet that includes a coat of the body color. (The same princible as accurail) I have done my fair shair of decaling in the past and I find that if that color coat is not applied, hiding the decal film is a royal pain in the but.
I have also used my fair share of dry transfers. So here is a tip for all those wondering why they cant seem to get them work. To get them to stick propler, after removing them from the carrier sheet, one needs to go over them with the fixer sheet, (That funny piece of tissiue paper provided in the package). This works the tranfer into the surface of the model and provides a protective layer for the dry transfer until a clear coat can be applied.
I hope I have been helpful today. [8D][8D][8D][8D]
I use dry transfers all the time for both electronic projects and modeling and find them to be easier to apply. For those having problems with them sticking use the fixer sheet and press - not rub - with a pencil eraser. Dry transfers will fill into rough surfaces and look like they were painted on, where decals will not.
I’d prefer decals for this.They would be easier to work with in the tricky areas such as number boards, steam domes and so on. I think it’s a really good idea and I’d like to see it done.
I have used both and would chose dry tranfers without hesitation. On a flat surface like a steam locomotive cab or tender, it can be hard to hide the edges of a decal. Dry tranfers leave only the number. They might not be so intimidating if the manufacturer supplied extra numbers in case of error.
I have never had a lot of success with the dry transfers. I always end up with only a portion of the transfer adhearing to the model. In addition, I think that applying very small dry transfer numbers to things like number boards would be very difficult.
For cab or hood numbers, I’d prefer dry transfer because you want something that will match the pad-printed look without having to over-coat wet-slide decals to hide the film.
Take for example, the HO Scale Kato C44-9 or Athearn SD70. For cab numbering, dry transfer are superior finish.
In the old days of dry transfer, you would end up get a series of numbers, 0,1,2,3,4…9 and you would have to paste each one. Modern decal designers draw the cab numbers in whole and with the correct spacing.
Smart designers provide ruling on the printing so in the case of the SD70, you align the rule line with the cab hortizontal and eye ball the center - then you have the correct position vertical each time and it’s straight.
I have some Kato C44-9 CNW units that I used Microscale decals some. Microscale decals are very nice because of the limited flim, but what about digits like 6 and 9 - you have the flim in the oval parts and without doing the overcoat they are noticable.
However, for the number boards, I generally perfer the wet-slide because of difficulty in placement, smaller area.
Each have their points.
Tony
PS. if anyone some of a good dry transfer printer for custom decals please let me know.
Decals definitely. I have had trouble lining up dry transfers to get a straight line. Seven out of eight letters or numbers will be straight but that eigth one will be just a little off.
I’ve heard this for at LEAST five years now…This is a great idea, even if you think you are not capable we all MUST know someone who would apply numbers for you in EITHER format.
The secret to dry transfers is to burni***hem down FULLY. Watch the letter as you burnish it down. You will see that it turns from readily readable to almost invisible when it has been properly applied. And don’t lift up on the carrier until you have completely applied the transfer.
I have used both dry letter transfers and decals. With a little care I find that applying a dry letter transfer and then setting it with a dullcoat spray is far superior to having to fiddle with decals. I believe that many people have problems with dry letter transfers because the transfers are old and do not affix properly. If the new locomotives come out and the transfers are applied in a timely fashion I am sure that most people would opt for the dry letter transfers.
I did not vote on this one. I am new to model railroading, but have had success with decals while building airplane models, etc.
However, I have no knowledge about dry transfers. I would be very greatful if someone would explain what dry transfers are, and how they work? Thanks (Perhaps a future article for MR)!
Also, how does the factory, say Athearn for instance, do the lettering (and flags on some models)?
Thanks to all who replied or will reply regarding this topic.
I just wanted to say that I would prefer the idea of being able to apply my own numbers, from a range of numbers provided on decal or transfer, so that I can easily match the numbers on prototype photos that I have.
I prefer number decals for ease of application, especially positioning as a wet decal can be maneouvered into position before it dries. Dry transfers have stretched and letteres split during the rubbing process. I even applied dry transfer letters for a free-lanced railroad to decal film.
Thanks (Perhaps a future article for MR)!