I’m not sure how prototypical you want to be, but if you’re wanting 100% realistic train I’d research about and look around for some trainsets like they use in the Pacific NW (such as ER-Model’s Talgo Pendecular set) and if one exists that will work in your curves (and budget) buy it, and an Athearn F59.
Now if you don’t really care how prototypical your train looks and are looking more for operation and price I’d definately go with Athearn and a shorter engine (for modern the Trainline P32, or for something older go with an F7 or other F-unit). If you decide that Walthers is your best bet DO NOT run Walthers cars and Athearn cars together. I don’t really know what it is buy my Amtrak train (which has cars from both manufacturers) has had constant problems on my 24" curves and just can’t run on my 22" curves.
Yet another option would be to have an electrified train, such as an Acela (again, I’m not sure what the radii requirements are) or just some cars with an AEM-7 or a Bachman HHP.
If you decide to go for the Talgo, Electrotren currently offer one although you’d need to add the fins on the roof and repaint it to be completely accurate. Would certainly be a little unusual - I have one of the old Ibertren N ones.
Don’t know exactly which Walthers cars you have but at that tight of a radius, the problem is probably the fact that the Athearn cars have talgo mounted and the Walthers cars have body mounted couplers. Not usually a problem on the wider (30 inches on up) radius, but I’ve had problems with combining them on the tight ones like you’re talking about. Body mounted couplers on long cars will also cause you headaches on the tight radius.
I know that one or my problems is that my Walthers kit diner and the RTR Viewliner sleeper have some details on the car body that interfere with truck movement. I’ve tried filing them down, but I’m tempted to just cut it off; I don’t see what it’s really for.
I’m tempted to start over and get some Walthers Superliner cars and then turn some of my single deck cars into my “Amtrak Midwest” commuter service, modeled after AmCal.
I have a 22" radius horseshoe curve in a tunnel on my layout.
In the 2 years that I have had Walthers passenger cars, not once have I had a failure on this curve. I also don’t slow my trains down for this curve either.
I know it’s 22" because I used Atlas sectional track for this curve.
I’ll even show you a short video clip of my Proto PA hauling 3 cars through this curve if anyone want’s to see it.
Facts about running on 22" curves don’t really help me because I have no room left in my trainroom and even if I did I’ve already invested too much money into the layout I have to start over, even though I really want to. All I need are nice looking cars that will track 18" radius curves. Would It be possible for the walthers cars to go around these curves with some modifying?
Gordon, it would be great if you could post a video clip of your layout.
John, if you are staying with 18" curves, you might want to look into IHC cars.
They’re not the greatest on the planet, but with a bit of work, they will roll nicely through 18" curves.
John, send me an email & I’ll email back the short clip I have.
If your stickin with the 18" curves i’d honestaly say go with the athearns. Anything longer is going to look really funny going over curves. Athearns 72’ cars already dont look the best on the 18" radius curves. If your interestood in other brands of cars you could check out Con Cor. They make / have made 72’ passenger cars. I have no experience with them though so i really cant say anything about them. As for the lifelikes… skip them. they are 60’ cars which would look better on the curves but are honestaly jsut really cheepy looking. I have one that my brother got for free some where, and is now going the way of ebay. Untill you have larger curves my suggustion would be a set of Athearn cars and either an F7 or two or an F40PH. Athearn made their cars in Amtrak phase I and phase III i beleive. they also made their F7s in both paint scheems. As for F40PH’s I know both walthers and bachmann specturm made decent ones.
well my thoughs at least.
~matt
The best way to go would be to get a Kato HO Amtrak F40PH and the Kato HO Amtrak Bi-levels. My buddy has a set of these and he hasn’t gotten them to derail on his 18" curves yet. Can back them up through tight switches at high speed, too. The F40s and Bi-levels are expensive, but they’re well worth the investment, IMO.
I have considered the Kato bi levels but amtrak doesn’t use them in the time period I’m modeling. They are nice looking though. I know it isn’t prototypical at all but maybe I’ll just go with a P42 or F40PH and a couple Kato bi levels? The reason I want the P42’s is because F40PH’s wouldn’t look right next to my SD70’s and C44-9W’s. I’m just not too crazy about the athearn cars. I’m getting depressed…[sigh]
F40PH’s would look right at home next to SD70s and Dash 9s. Both came out around 1995 (?) and the F40PH’s were still in use until about 1999 I believe.
I thought SD70s and Dash 9s came out in the early 2000s but I guess not. I would like to run walther’s new P42s but according to you guys my best bet would be the late F40PHs whith the athearn cars or Kato bi levels. Thanks for all the replies.
I’m not that talented though, and it may cost more money than it is worth to make it look okay. I’d rather spend more money for something that I know will look nice and run good.
Well, Walthers doesn’t make P42s, but Athearn does! I still think your best bet would be the Kato F40PH and Bi-levels, but an Athearn AMD103/P40/P42 would work just as well with them.
Oh, I just saw the P-42s in the phase V paint scheme on the walthers website and just figured that they were made by walther. My mistake. [D)]
I like the look of the phase V scheme and it fits in better with the modern period I’m trying to model. Kato is also more expensive, but probably better quality.