I am in the process of building a model railway, but I want to be able to take it apart, so I can move it, and continue latter. So, I have decided to build it in 4x? sections, for portability, but I have seen the local modulars, and they don’t flow from scene to scene, and have horrid gaps between the sections. Is it possible to have a layout, that is modular, but with no gaps between sections, and I don’t want to fill in sections with plaster, only to chop it up later…help?
I just started a modular layout awhile back myself. The key for the gaps is to use c clamps or some other option to hold them together, then use scenery to try to cover up the seams that divide modules. I am also playing with the idea of using styrene or something else to also smooth over the transition and then break it up upon dissasembly. Good luck!
My layout is built in sections also. 2x7 for HO scale. The layout is not meant to be portable, but meant to be moved to a new location easily in case I must move. I use two techniques to cover the joints. One is I put blue painters tape over the seam and put the scenery right on it. The other is that I use latex caulking to fill the seam, and again, put the scenery right over it. When the sections have to be separated, I will just cut them apart along the seam.
You really don’t want a “modular” layout, you want a 'sectional" layout. A module is a piece that can go in any order in modular layout. the ends of each module match the ends of every other module.
A sectional layout is a layout that breaks into sections, but it goes together in only one way. The ends of each section are more or less unique.
Modular layouts are designed to be built by individuals and assembled as necessary. There is no attempt to make the scenery consistent nor is there any ned to scenic across the gap between modules.
On the other hand on a sectional layout you build the sections to come apart with a joint in the roadbed and benchwork and then the track has some sort of arrangement either to align or bridge gaps in the track. You can scenic across the gaps. A suggestion is to glue a piece of brown paper across the gap, then sceince across it like the gap wasn’t there. When it comes time to move, just run a hobby knife through the paper and separate the sections.
My layout is built in 2x8 sections, or narrower. This size easily fits through doors - I had one section done before I moved to my present location and had no trouble getting it here and carrying it up 2 flights of stairs to the new train room. Where there are gaps int he extruded foam top, I filled in with scraps of foam. The track is laid continuous, no gaps. SHould I have to move it, a few minutes with a Dremel will cut the needed gaps to take the sections apart. Odds are very slim that I would reuse the layout as-is anyway. I plan to be here until I can get a place large enough to build my ‘dream’ layout and while that includes elements of what I’m building now, none of it would be exact.
–Randy
If you want good benchwork you must do good benchwork. If you settle for so so work you get large gaps.
My gaps are because I decided to set the foam inside the frame rather than on top of it, so while the 1x3 end pieces bilt up neatly, the foam does not extend over them. For the track, a scrap of foam supports the roadbed. For scenery I’ll probbaly just tape over it so tons of filler don’t go down the gap.
–Randy
For gap-proof sections, I use a belt sander and a beam level until the new sections’ endings are flush with the adjoining section. I cut the end piece for the new section, then see how it mates up with the end of the existing section. I then sand the end of the existing section until the board that will be the end of the new section fits flush. I then clamp that board to the end of the existing section, and drill and install dowels. This aids in lining up the sections should you have to remove the section. There are parts of my layout that are removable to facilitate working on a part of the layout.
Tate
How often will you be wanting to take it apart? Will it be only if you move, or more frequently than that. This would make a big difference in how I would put things together.
Brent
Okay, so I will almost never move it, but ever once in a while, I would like to like to take it out to shows, but, maybe a 4x8 would be better for that.
I’ve always wanted get a layout or module to a finished enough point to take to a show. Just never have, yet. Maybe in another year. But I have taken a portable layout to work to set up as a Christmas display (46" x 60").
Having built several 4x8 layouts, a 4x8 does not make a good layout to take to shows for a few reasons:
- it won’t fit in the back of most cars/SUVs. You need a pickup with a full 8ft bed or a trailer.
- most 4x8s are too heavy to handle easily. Carrying it out, or putting in the truck or trailer is a bear for two people. It can’t be done by one, which is sometimes all you have.
- settting up legs for a 4x8 at a show is not a trivial exercise, either.
These reasons mean most modules and layout sections that are taken to shows are generally about 6ft long (and are less than 4ft wide). And they are specifically built to be easy to take apart and set up. And they are kept as light as possible.
my thoughts, your choices
Fred W
That’s why my sections are 2’x4’. Easily handled by one person. And I installed levelers using T-bolts to make leveling it a snap. NO floor is completely flat.
Make some modules that you can hook up with a modular club. They are built to standard patterns (which makes them modular).
4x8 sections are VERY hard to handle. They’re too wide AND too tall for most doors. If there is a sharp turn, you can’t run it out the 8 foot direction. Plus it tends to get heavy.
If you are most interesting in taking things to train shows, then Dave is probably right, built to a modular standard and link up with a local club. You can build most of you home layotu fixed and make a particualr scene a module to some standards, when not at shows it’s just part of the layout, but you can pop just that part out and take it along.
–Randy
The smaller the better. 4x2 or 4x4 sections are great for protability.
The reason club layouts don’t :“flow together” is that each individual makes a module of what they want on it, as long as they have teh standard track alignments and so when attached to each other they may not “flow”.
You have the choice to make yours flow together as one module can relate to anohter on your layout.
Study modular sections online by google search and see what gives you ideas, or do youhave the whole layout already planned?
aS for "cracks, well you can design scenery to overlap cracks, but I would either trim all track ends to end on the sections and wire connect with plug ins under neather for track power, OR use the dreaded “rerailers” to bridge teh gaps. may nto be pretty but may keep your trains on the track at intersections.
If you give us more infor to go on, it can help.
Good luck.
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I understand what you are getting at. I have also noticed gaps, particularly with modular layouts that are assembled and reassembled very frequently. Whether you have a true modular layout, where each module is interchangeable with any other (NTrak for example) or sectional, where it is readily broken down into manageable and movable pieces, it is very difficult to avoid some sort of visible gap unless you are prepared to cut into the scenery whenever you do move it or take it apart (and don’t rule that out).
The answer might be in your hardware store – products used to fill gaps against water or cold air.
One tip is to avoid major scenery – mountains for example, or a river – right at the gaps. Those are the most difficult gaps to disguise.
I have two suggestions. First, a flexible, compressable gap-filling seal or “gasket.” You might want to consider thin foam rubber dyed (not painted) the basic color of your scenery, such as grass green, and cut to the contour of both section’s edges. When pushed together it should be just about seamless. A very soft rubber strip might also work. ScotchBrite pads (or cheap generic versions) if cut and fit with care might be just the right material and look right too. The self adhesive green felt material used for the bottoms of furniture legs is another idea, although it is ver
GO to any large train show in your area and CHECK OUT the modular club’s layouts there! TALK to the folks, explain what you’re after, LISTEN to their combined wisdom [ after all, they’ve all BT and DT! ] and take notes!. Having been in our own HO modular club 6 yrs. here in NH, it’s absolutely amazing to see what the clever minds of other modular club members came up with in building their custom-made train show modules! And was also amazed at the module storage racks in their pickups! Each module was numbered; slid into it’s respective slot. One truck seen, had capacity for six numbered modules; made stowing them for trip home a snap. Actually watched loading procedures at end of more than one show, to LEARN what others did. Occasionally, we’d also get to see how they unloaded for set-up BEFORE a show and that was also an eye-opener. Many had custom-made dollies/ carts to transport modules to their set-up points. Some clubs even had a portable control center, with everything located/stored in one unit, which hung onto side of a specific module. When at a show, the handheld throttles came out, were assigned to their respective operators, w/ dispatcher staying @ the main panel. Wireless set-ups would be even easier BUT they can get tricky at shows, as OTHER club’s wireless throttle radio frequencies may be the SAME as yours, causing NO END of problems, so infrared or tethered throttles were more popular at the time when our club attended area shows. My 2 cents. TTFN…Old Tom aka papasmurf in NH
If you don’t mind forking out some $$ (fairly big $$), you can get benchwork modules from Woodland Scenics, Sievers, or Mianne. They will fit together nicely and fasten with wing nuts and carriage bolts, so that you can disconnect only what you want to.
You can do the same thing yourself much more cheaply, but you’ll need decent carpentry skills to do a good job. Power tools don’t hurt, either.
I can attest to the quality of the Sievers benchwork. Recently received my order and am now painting the components to minimize moisture absorption; therefore, I haven’t assembled the sections yet. But the wood (#2 pine-almost #1 in quality) is true and should assemble easily and satisfactorily.
Dante
I believe that’s a fairly recent change. They used to advertise hardwood construction.