I am planning to build the PRR through north Philadelphia which is basically a straight section of the mainline for one mile. This lends itself to modular construction very nicely. Since I will be moving (again!) in 10-12 years the thought of building a railroad I can reconstruct is appealing to say the least. I am planning to keep the cross section down to 24" using building fronts to represent the industries on the westbound side and have bump outs for implied industries on the eastbound side. Dcc is a given with four mainline tracks under catenary and one yard track on the outside on each side. The question is how long a module is practical? Run diagonally in a basement I am planning on a 60’ mainline so ten 6’ sections would workout nicely. Anybody try to move 2’x6’ modules before? They should fit ok through doors. any idea of how much that would weigh using 1"x4" for a frame and plywood construction? I am guessing 20-30# per section which should also be manageable. Background will be masonite so it can be taken down and moved. Any other thoughts? Thank you.
NTRAK modules are predominately 2’ x 4’ because that size works from a size and weight standpoint… There used to be more 6 footers, but many of us got tired of moving them. If it is a “permanent” layout, 6’ modules or sections should be OK and still allow a fairly easy move if necessary.
I have considered trying 10’ modules (in two 5’ sections) as a compromize size for a modular layout, but haven’t built any yet. This would allow more flexability in track layout in a module. 20 years ago I built an 18’ NTRAK module in three 6’ sections.
I have recently joined the local modular club here, and I have a bunch of links for you!
A couple of suggestions based on my experience with them (the club and the modules) so far…
When they (we?) say modules, we mean interchangeable sections that are built to a given standard so they may be connected in any number of ways. We do this every month, and every time it is a new and interesting layout. For the relatively small cost of building a 4 or 6 foot section, you get a layout with 200 - 300 feet of mainline running, plus branchlines, and yards! These modules are built to HOTrak/freemo standards. But I digress… [;)] If you are looking for a way simply to make the modules easy to take apart and transport once or twice in their life, you do not need to be so rigourous in application of standards.
Use 1.5" or 2" extruded foam for the subroadbed instead of plywood. It will reduce your weight considerably. Each module (most are 4 or 6 feet, but we have some 2 footers too) are easily handled by two guys.
Be sure to connect the modules together in a solid, but removable way, like bolts or clamps. If you screw them together, it is more like a one-time connection.
Six feet is practical, and will fit in just about every minivan and/or SUV currenlty available.
4 main lines, plus industry sidings and so on may be a bit of a squeeze in 2 feet. The “bumpouts” are a good idea, but don’t make the overall depth more than 3 feet if you can only access it from one side.
Anyway, here are all the links.
The local club (web site under construction, as usual): http://www.hotrak.ca Be sure to check out the gallery and look at the planned “Castor River” modules. This is a 4 module switching setup with 4 main lines.
Railway Bob’s how-to on building modules (warning for dial-up photo intensive) http://www.railwaybob.com/Modules/MRIndex.htm
Free-mo’s site and standards. http://www.free-mo.org/
I’m not really talking modules the way clubs use them as much as I am about a way to dismantle and move a layout by taking a future move into consideration in the building phase. I’m hoping to make this one my last one after many years in the hobby.
What you are describing used to be called a sectional layout. I haven’t heard much about them in recent years, but the idea is a semi permanent layout that comes apart for moving and usually only assembles in one configuration. The key dimensions are of course what you can fit through the doorway. With a four track mainline I would go with 27" widths (every little bit helps) since most doors will pass at least 28". I would suggest using foam scenery to help keep the weight down.
Enjoy
Paul
That type of approach may also be called “domino” - more in reference to the stanard way to build the benchwork. No standard connections are required, as this will never connect with anything but itself.
I would still point to to the www.railwaybob.com tutorial on building light benchwork. The foam module when assembled and wired (no scenery) weighs under 20 pounds.
Andrew
The guy built some nice modules but I am old school when it comes to foam. I may try it but I think I will use MDF in place of foam. It is stronger and I am concerned about the thickness of foam and getting too old to change I am afraid.
Never say never! MDF is going to wreck your back when it comes time to move! That stuff is even heavier than plywood.
The foam modules are surprisingly strong. I think Bob recommends 1.5" foam, but you could go to 2", and laminate it to luan (“doorskin” or even 1/4") plywood for added strength. Anyway, they hold up really well - these modules are moved and set up in a different configuration every month with little, if any problems.
Give it a try with a small 2x2 or 2x4 before you rule it out completely…
Andrew
It’s not the foam. It’s having to relearn how to mount thing like switch machines and the added linkage depth, etc. I have to think it over as nothing is starting immediately any way.
The club I belong to uses a 2’x4’ size it easy to transport go thru doors and fits into cars easier than somthing larger. We set up 4 times a year at shows and this size works great.
My layout consists of the David Barrow “domino” method. I use 2 foot by 4 foot although Barrow at one time used 18" by 4 foot. Part of this sytem involves moving the dominos around the floor like big chess pieces – because in a sense you build the benchwork before or during the layout design and planning. Another feature of the Barrow design is that the top is a box that sits on top of a frame, so potentially you have two parts to move (or save the box and start over again with the frames if you move - or disassemble the frames, which I have done when giving an NMRA clinic on domino benchwork.
I can say that moving a 2 ft by 4 ft dominoaround is not easy but is feasible. I am a tall guy and if I was shorter it would be a challenge, and I think 6 feet long would be quite a challenge unless you have a buddy to help.
As to true portability – up the stairs, through the house, into the car – then I take the domino apart into the box and frame part and remove the legs from the frame. But once again it is hard to imagine getting a six foot long anything easily up my basement steps and around some sharp corners. My toyota wagon can take four foot bnech tops easily but 6 foot long would again be a trick
Dave Nelson
[#ditto]
I haven’t heard of universal standards for modules in any other scale, so I assume you are modeling in N scale and If you’re not taking them to model railroad shows or a NTrack club. Then why not set your own standards for your modules. I just like to add, consider the vertical dimentions if you have to tilt the module sideways. Then there is the unknown factor, what is the size of the door and obstacles of the place you are moving to?
.
AMEN BROTHER!
I did that Andrew but the 1/4 inch plywood warps from the glue and it warps the 2" foam. I even tried sealing the plywood with shellac first but the shellac warped it too. Then I saw a layout being built in an artical in Model Railroader and the author used 1x4’s like bed slats and that was just to keep the foam from droping through the benchwork. So now I’m going to just glue 2x2’s to the mating edges and wherever I need added support and attachment points to the benchwork.
See the replies in another post addressing mounting under table switch machines on foam board.
Gary…
A couple of thoughts/questions on the warping plywood.
Did you use a water-based glue?
Was an entire sheet of ply (i.e. 2x4 or whatever your module size is) laminated to the same size piece of foam?
Was there any cross bracing, or braces at 90 degrees to the ply?
I have seen an interesting drawing that shows a foam layer laminated to a layer of doorskin, but the doorskin has big holes cut in the middle (sort of like steel structural bracing). Then there are 3" strips glued at right angles to provide rigidity (is that a word?). The author alszo recommended using panel adhesive, which is not water-based.
However, having said all that, we currently build our modules to the standard that www.railwaybob.com describes, using either dimensional pine or 3/4" cabinet grade ply ripped to nominal 1x4 or 1x5. We do not have any problems with sagging or flexing on any modules built like that.
Andrew
MDF, who ever created it didn’t have to cut that nasty stuff. SEROUS DUST!
Nothing is perfect. Yes MDF is heavy and nakes dust but the upside is dimensional stability, straightness and perfect surface with no knots or grain. It isn’t as bad as homasote and doesn’t have static electricity problem like foam so it isn’t all bad.
Hi ndbprr thanks for your reply concerning Lebanon. Regards Rolf