I’m planning my first layout after being out of the hobby for way too long. I’m looking at 2options, a 4x8ish with branches so I can expand later or a detachable 4x4 section with branches, space dependent. I need to be able to store/expand it easily in my garage and move it easily if the military tells me I need to live somewhere else.
-22" radius will allow for 6 axel locos, right? How well will the larger locos run on an 18" turn? I was leaning towards sd-40 or possibly ac-4400.
-with connecting modules, how hard is it to build/connect with on curves rather than linear sections? One track to connect vs multiple on the module?
-obviously trees and scenery can hide seams where the modules connect, but how noticeable will the seam be if its in a more “urbanized” section" ? I’m looking at a lead in to a yard area with a small industry or 2.
The beauty of modules is that there are no set configuration. One thing is that you don’t build curved modules but instead use a corner module that can have a rounded front edge. If you double up some plastic wrap between modules when doing the scenery the modules will not be glued together but the scenery will be seamless. (ask me how I know this [:$] ) Why go with 18 and 22 inch radius curves? My module has 42 inch curves and is only 4x4.
Believe it or not there is a seem running from front to back just under that standing steam loco.
Hear is my corner with the wide curves in the back ground. My modules have been through heck over the ten years of doing shows. Hurricanes, Snow storms, Rain, Wind, freezing cold, and rough roads have taken its toll on not only the modules but the owner too. They are now retired and happily part of the home layout.
Gidday, like Pete says, why limit yourself with small radii curves especially if you are going to run larger locos?
While forum member mcfunkeymonkey models N gauge, his techniques translate to any gauge and his threads and how-tos are definitely well worth a look. Here’s some links…
Instead of a 4x8 i would do a 6x8. This way you can get 30 in. radius curves on it to make the longer engines and cars go around better. I would also make it into 4 3ft by 4ft modules. This way the are all the same size so you can move them easier. If you had to rack them being the same size makes it alot easier. It also will be easier to make the layout bigger in the future. Just add more modules between the 4 to make it longer or wider. This is what i did in a past layout. If it came to a point where you had to move and you have the layout up after you expanded it , just take the modules out and go back to the original 4 modules and you are back to a 6x8. Just store the modules you cant use until you can use them again.
My dad and myself take layouts to a couple shows per year. Because our traveling modules are part of out home layouts, we can come to shows with different layouts. We keep some modules home one year then take them out the next. It all comes down to what we feel like showing for a paticular show. When we take out modules out we have them in racks fo easy transportation. Making our modules standard sizes means we can transport multiple modules in one stack. The Stakes have wheels, so we roll them into the trailer tie them down and wheel them out to our spot in a show.
Take a look at Free Mo; it’s a nationwide (worldwide?) standard. You can have a layout at home and take some of it, or all of it to a local Free Mo setup/meet (usually at a train festival or show) and incorporate your modules into a much, much bigger layout. It’s a great way to meet people and give and get suggestions, not to mention running prototypical length trains on it. I had 22" radius curves on a 4x8 layout, and a RSD-12 that ran ok on it, but I’d suggest 30"+ radius (for reliable coupling and looks). If you’re into modern rolling stock, those are cars longer too and they will like bigger curves too. If you absolutely have to have smaller radius curves, take my dad’s advice: 4 axle diesels, and 40’ cars will be much better (not to mention you’ll get more cars in a train and on your layout). Longer cars/locos will need larger turnouts too; sure #4’s could work, but #6’s are soooo much better/easier/more reliable.
I agree, make several smaller modules (make sure you can fit them into whatever vehicle you have; and remember, what you can lift today, you might not be able to lift in 10 years from now. Having all the modules the same size helps in moving/storing (think about filling a space with identical boxes, or a bunch of different sized boxes; it’s like a life-size Tetris puzzle. The rack idea is great, our modular group uses them successfully but you’ll need a space to store an empty rack, or dismantle it for storage. I use 2 pieces of plywood approx 2’x2’ to join my 3 2’x4’ modules at the ends, then a hand truck (that converts to a dolly) to move them around. All I have to find space for is two 1/2" pieces of plywood and the hand truck/dolly is handy for other uses around the house (friends ask to borrow it all the time so you might want to hide it.lol).
For your first layout, you might not want to glue the track down too permanently at first, in case 22&
There is another way that you can go. Build switching modules as towns. Maybe 2ft by 7ft in size. Make them using a box frame of furring strips with a luan top with one inch foam board on top. This makes a light weight module that is also sturdy. The ‘town’ contains the industries, turnouts, wiring, control panel, etc. and is a self contained switching module. Once you have built two, they can be placed close together or far apart and linked together with a mainline on a shelf.
Just make sure the modules can fit out of the doors of your house, if you are going to make it wider than the door, then secure everything down well so you can flip it on it’s side to take it out (and make sure the height doesn’t exceed the width of the door, try fold up legs). Lastly, make sure it can go around any bends between it and the door. It would be best if you cut ply wood outside, then pretend that the scenery is on it and try to take it in.
I was looking at the Virginian Project layout, and it is a 4x8, and it has several branches you can add on (see the regular track plan, not the one with the switches and feeders).
Depends totally on the exact brand, make, and model. Some will work fine others won’t. The GSB SD40-2s hated 18" radius. The Athearn BB equivalent was no problem.
At least twice as hard more like an order of magnitude. I’ve only got 1 module connection on a curve and it has cause more issues than all the straight ones combined.
This depends if you use butt joints or jumper tracks. With butt joints it isn’t an issue because they will just be there. With jumpers each track adds another connection that has to be lined up simultaneously with all the others before the final pushing of the modules together. I’ve got one set of modules that have butt joints where the break is across about 8 tracks. The one curved joint mentioned above has caused more problems than these 8. By the way the curved is actually on the other end of the same module from the 8…sigh. BTW I use door hinges to align them.
While a joint on a curve isn’t the best idea (as others have said), I wound up with three of them on our display layout. I was pretty worried about them causing derailment problems, but they’ve worked out better than I expected. I used a short piece of flex track between the sections and very slightly curved the rails to match the curve of the track. Once the sections are in place, the layout will usually operate for a few days straight without any track problems.
Most of the curved joints are hidden, but if they were visible I think I would glue ties in place and just use short sections of rail. That’s how I did the other visible joints that are straight. Of course, you can still see the small pieces of rails and rail joiners, but I’m happy with it for the most part. It has lasted a pretty long time without any problems.
