In my searching of the forums, I have found no information on the specs for Model Power 2-6-0 Moguls. I know prototypically speaking Moguls were not designed to handle grades. However, on the layout plan, to accomplish what I want to do with the layout the engine would need to be able to handle 10’ of 2% grade followed by a 2’ section of 3% grade (for the purpose of clearance) then going back to 4’ of 2% grade followed by level track for the rest of the run. My questions are these: 1. How much drawbar pull does this engine have? 2. Other than physically testing it, is there some formula to figure how many cars that could be pulled on the above mentioned grade? 3. Can this particular model even handle the above grade with 6 MDC 34’ Overton cars (the original MDC cars, not the recent athearn re-runs) with stock weights? The section of layout that this will be running out and train setup is still in the planning stage so if something needs changed it wouldn’t be hard. Thank you all for any assistance you can provide with my questions.
When 4-4-0 locomotives were the rule, the 2-6-0 was considered a “mountain” locomotive being much better suited for heavier grades. That’s especially applicable to models because, at best, an American-type’s tractive effort is anemic, while the Mogul’s is good for its size. Of course, the Mogul’s prototypical reign was short, being replaced by larger types. But a Mogul would be a good 19th-century mainline locomotive or a 20th-century shortline/branchline loco. … Can’t help you on the particulars of the Model Power loco, however. The loco should handle the expected grades, but the question is how heavy a train it could handle on the grades.
Mark
Mark is correct: when Moguls were introduced, they were considered “big power”. Your question intrigued me enough that I ran a couple of tests on my own layout, though.
My IHC Mogul managed to drag 3 MDC 58’ “Overland”-type cars (similar to your 34’ Overtons) up my curving 2.5% grade. The cars are the original ones, although I modified them cosmetically and also added some weight. The total train weight behind the tender was 18.5 oz., all rolling on the original plastic wheels in their original plastic sideframes. The loco experienced some minor wheelslip, and was probably at its limit, tonnage wise.
Since I have only the three Overland cars, I added three Accurail boxcars to the train, all on their original plastic trucks and wheels, bring the total trailing weight to 29 oz. and used a re-motored brass Mogul to pull it up the same grade. There was no wheelslip, and I probably could’ve added another couple of boxcars.
To determine drawbar pull, multiply the maximum percent (expressed as a decimal) of grade that your loco will climb by the weight of the loco, in ounces (that’s loco only, not including the tender). This will give you the drawbar pull, in ounces. For example, if your loco weighs 12 oz. and will climb a 25% grade, multiply 12 ounces x .25 = 3.0oz. of drawbar pull.
To determine drag per car, multiply the weight of the car, in ounces, by the percentage of grade (again, expressed as a decimal) at which the car will begin to roll on its own. For example a 3.5oz. car begins to roll on a 1.4% grade: 3.5ounces x .014 = .049oz. of drag.
Obviously, to perform these tests, a length of track whose grade can be readily altered is required.
Wayne
Are you talking about Model Power’s HO 2-6-0, or their N-scale one? I think the N ones are decent, but the HO 2-6-0s are pretty bad. I’ve got one from back when Life-Like sold them, and it’s always been a poor runner (and it’s on its 3rd axle gear).
Roundhousetrains.com’s HO-scale Mogul is another alternative, although I don’t have any personal experience with any of the locomotives mentioned.
Mark
Part of the equation is whether the model relies on metal-to-metal traction, or if it has a traction tire. If all of the wheels are metal, Bullfrog Snot (UGLY product name) is alleged to provide traction tire equivalent results.
My pair of moguls are adequate performers, even though their 40th birthdays are history. However, they are irrelevant to this discussion since they are not US prototype, not HO scale and have 6-wheel tenders. (That’s three axles under the tender, in rigid pedestals.)
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with C50 and C56 class 2-6-0s)
Or get a “double” Mogul as in a 2-6-6-2 articulated and not worry so much about it. Coincidentally, one of my favorite locomotives is the Southern Pacific’s MM(Mallet Mogul)-3 class. A D&SL 2-6-6-0 could be perfect. It is relatively small. Darn, when will models of them be mass produced at an affordable price?
They are the HO ones. At least in my own testing, I hadn’t found anything but I haven’t run them much.
The models in question are metal-to-metal traction.
I’ve got an IHC Mogul like Wayne’s, but mine won’t pull it’s shadow up 1.5%! All peas did not come from the same pod, evidently. Based on that rather limited case, I don’t think my engine would have a prayer of pulling that drag off.
Lou
I can’t recall if I added some weight to the IHC Mogul or not - probably did, as most locos do get some extra ballast. I intend to re-motor it eventually, as I need it to doublehead with the brass one - they run well-enough together, but for the first locomotive length or so, the wheels on the IHC aren’t turning. [(-D]
With the shorter Overton cars, I’d guess their weight to be about 3 oz. apiece, at most (1oz. plus 1/2oz. for each inch of length), so your loco may be able to handle the train which you’re suggesting. Without being familiar with that loco, I hesitate to recommend adding much weight to it, but you can improve the pulling power of most steam engines simply by balancing them (and not on the end of your nose, either). [;)]
To find out if the loco would benefit from balancing, disconnect it from its tender, then place it on a balance - you can make an adequate one using a pencil and a ruler or any similarly-shaped piece of wood or metal. Lay the pencil on your workbench, then place the ruler with its mid-point exactly atop the pencil. Next, carefully place the loco with the mid-point of its driver wheelbase exactly atop the mid-point of the ruler. For a Mogul, Pacific, Hudson, or any other six-coupled loco, the mid-point of the driver wheelbase is the bottom of the middle driver. For eight-coupled locos, such as Consolidations, Mikados, Berkshires, or Northerns, the mid-point of the driver wheelbase is halfway between the two middle drivers. Chances are, one end of the loco will readily drop, showing you that it’s the heavier end. To balance the loco, you need to add weight to the opposite end. Without removing the loco from the balance, begin adding weight to the high end, on the locomotive itself if possible, to see if you can get it to balance. Many locomotives are so imbalanced that it’s impossible to fully balance them - don’t forget, whatever weight you’re able to add must eventually be concealed i