Is there a problem with using real rocks in place of molded rocks? I’ve thought
about the weight factor and supporting them and that shouldn’t be a problem.
I have a whole driveway full of great looking rocks in all sizes and colors.
I’m afraid of spending all that money and not being able to paint them to look as good in the free ones in my driveway.I’m I just off base thinking of useing
the real thing?[?]
Why not make molds of the real rocks in your driveway? Its cheap and you can make as many as you want.
I’ve always used heavy guage aluminum foil by crinkling it up, uncrinkling it and using it as a mold to cast plaster rocks or rock faces with. You can shape it into almost anything you want and best of all-it’s inexpensive!..
trainluver1
try it , see how it looks . if you like it use the money you saved to buy that new loco you’ve been eyeing at the LHS . if you don’t like the results pull 'em out and try the cast plaster method
I hope real rocks work. We’ve been collecting great rocks for years and I’m modeling the areas they came froe. I hope nature makes HO scale as well as full size.
the only thing about real rocks is that most of them aren’t very prototype and they can really put a strain on your benchwork…enough real rocks on the layout and you’ve got one really heavy layout that can warp boards and bow plywood…have you considered using pink or blue foam board and carving out rock formations in it with a kitchen knife or hobby knife?..chuck
It’s easy to cut a corner off a cast rock to make it fit.
The biggest one is that they are hard to cut to fit a particular location.
Look at pictures of the area you are modeling, compare those pictures to the rocks you have, then decide the right method for you.
I suggest that you go with a mixture of materials and techniques.
The foam base is good, because then you will only have a thin layer of rocks and/or plaster.
One thing you will find with rock molds is you can reuse them over and over and over on your layout. If you just turn them different directions, mix and match them with other molds, paint them differently … you will get a lot of mileage out of each and every rock mold you use.
If you use real rocks, one shot is all you get. They weigh a lot (can be a big issue with multideck designs), they can take up lots of space under the benchwork (get in the way of hidden track, turnout mechanisms, etc.), and the coloration will often be too dark for indoor lighting (see my scenery forum clinic for more: http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?page=1&TOPIC_ID=32122 ).
The biggest difference between the two is that cast rocks can be painted various colors to suit your desires, whereas real rocks will always look like real rocks, no matter what you do to them.
Not always. If the coloration is too dark for indoor lighting, real rocks will NOT look real on your layout.
Actually, it is easier to get the look of real rocks, very fine details and texture, that looks very real with hydrocal using some of the commercial molds than it is to achieve with real rocks. You can certainly use some real rocks if they serve your needs. The cautions given about weight should be heeded! The photo below is of a mountainside I am working on and was done with hydrocal plaster and commercial molds. It was painted with a thin wash of WS stone gray. Several coats were used to acheive the look I wanted.
sometimes fake is better! this is well knwon in the film community. A real brick wall may photograph ‘faker’ than than a flat painting…it dependss on the viewing distanc, angle and lighting…once upon a time it was considered almsot taboo to use real dirt pebbles etc…now it is very common and with great results…technique never matters…results do
wow, ill proof read my post next time!