Molding and Casting Dome Obs Lounge Chairs

Since most of this is about molding and casting plastic parts, I decided to start a new thread instead of putting it in my Interior Detailing a UP Dome Observation Lounge thread.

I counted 10 different style chairs in the 2 lounges of the UP ACF Dome Obs Lounge. The dome divans and card room make it 12. I wanted to represent that variety in my Soho model. Since no one made something close enough that I could bash, I sculpted, molded and cast most of the chairs.

I used an air drying clay to sculpt the individual pieces. I got a brick of that stuff, and it needs to be kept moist when stored.

For molds and casts, I started with the Alumilite kit. Right off, I didn’t like the 10/1 by weight mix of the rubber. I just halved the parts and got 3 molds out of it with a lot of waste and thrown out rubber. The resin is easier to mix, but since I use a syringe to slowly pour the resin, it just set up way too fast for me. Lot of waste there, too. So I got the Micro Mark 1/1 Si rubber and the longer setting 600 resin. Both brands gave good end results. The MM stuff is just more suited to my work methods.

It’s not difficult to mold and cast if the directions are followed. I made a good mold and cast good parts the first time. It’s VERY IMPORTANT to stir/mix the individual parts in their containers before measuring and combining them. This goes for the mold rubber and the resin. The containers need to be kept sealed as much as possible, cause the chems readily absorb moisture. The only thing I added was storing the containers in zip-lock baggies. The MM directions said to mix at least 1 fluid oz of each part for the resin. That made a lot of waste. I had no problem just doing 1/4 oz of each.

I had to do a series of molds and casts. The bar lounge has 9 of the same style chairs, so it took some duplicating to get a final production mol

DC,

Those seats look impressive, nice work! [C=:-)][tup] You’ll give Palace Car Co. a good run for their money. [;)]

Very glad that you posted this as I plan on casting items such as shop tables and vehicles. I’ve seen positive references posted on the forum regarding Alumilite. I hope to begin to work with it after my layout is built (I’m currently in the process).

Question: For paint adhesion, will the seats require scuffing or an adhesion promoter? I was wondering as there are certain chemicals that cure to a slick surface that make paint adhesion challenging.

What colors will you be applying?

I generally just wash my castings with grease-cutting dish detergent like any other plastic kit part. They take acrylic and enamels very well.

To keep the silcone molds fresh for re-use (longterm) and keep them clean (they attract dust and dirt like a magnet) store them in ziplock bags.

Thank you , Antonio. Your support is always encouraging.[:)]

I haven’t thought about paint adhesion. Thanks to modelmaker, we now both know.

4 red bar lounge chairs, and 5 off-white bar lounge chairs - vinyl looking. The obs lounge chairs will be grouped in to a set of off-white, set of light blue and a set of light red - cloth looking. Trying to go fifties.

DC

Thanks for the info, modelmaker. [:)]

I got my molds and chems “sucked” away in baggies.[:P]

DC

Great job.

Are there any books or websites detailing the steps required to make your own molds?

Doc

Thank you.

I read the info on the Alumilite, Micro Mark and Smooth On websites. The alumilite and Micro Mark products came with good instructions - I followed them. It’s not difficult, and actually somewhat fun.

Again, thanks.[:)]

DC

The hard part is making the masters, the mold making and casting is the fun part!

DC,

This really has stirred up my interest more. I have an HO Mercedes Benz bus that I’d like to cast several models of with some modifications to the body to make it look more like a North American styled coach. I’ll read up on this “Allumite” product.

Antonio,

I’ve used the Alumilite before. I’ve since come to prefer the casting resins from Micro-Mark. I had trouble pouring the Alumilite into the molds without it starting to set before it was completely poured. I haven’t had that problem with the MM stuff. Plus, Micro-Mark carries RTV for molds that is mixed 1:1 rather than the 10:1 that the Alumilite mold material is.

DC,

Excellent thread, sir! Even though I’ve done a bit of casting myself, it’s nice to see how others do it. [:)]

Very much appreciate your comment, Arjay.

I’ll go ahead and research the Alumite and MM products. I still get the Micromark flyer in the mail [;)]

My two cents here , The MM product for me was by far the best to work with, I have made many thing with the mold and resin. trash cans , pole transformers , GE prime movers, coke machines office furniture (ie: file cabinets , desks etc)

I tried to mix the colors based on ads, post cards and videos of the UP dome observation lounge, but I got to say I am still having trouble getting past these color combinations. While I was working on the paint and doubting what I was doing, I had to keep thinking about my Mother’s kitchen during the time I was growing up in the fifties. The walls were a pale yellow; grey formica table and counter tops, with stainless trim; white appliances and sink, fake blonde wood cabinets, a dark maroon/red carpet; and the ugliest dark red vinyl corner seat. Freaking unbelievable! [xx(] I’m surprised I survived without permanent color perception disorientation.

Well, here they are. Comments/suggestions welcomed, especially about the obnoxious color scheme. They’re not in the Soho yet, and I can still change them. Got some tables to make, populate the car, and that’ll be about it.

Thanks for looking.

DC

DC,

I’m not exaggerating when I say, outstanding! The colors that you’re using appear right on target for U.S passenger trains of the 40s and 50s. (Some railroads went a little “koo-koo” in the 60s and used some loud, gaudy colors).

The flat paint finish adds a lot to their realistic appearance. Did you have any problems with paint adhesion? What brand did you use? [:)]

Thank you, sir, and thanks for the confirmation on the color scheme.

Yeah, my wife’s parents saw them, and said that was what the fifties were like, so I’m going with them.

No problems. The paint went on great. I just used good ole PPG grease and wax remover (806, I think) and real clean hands to clean the pieces. No primer. Since I mix up most of my own paints to get different shades, I use Testors enamels - nice small amounts for those “one time” applications, and they have such a large selection to choose my base colors from. I do go through a lot of white, though. I clear coated the obs lounge chairs with DulCote. The bar lounge pieces are clear coated with a 50-50 mix of DulCote and Krylon Crystal Clear, to get that semi-gloss, vinyl look. I use PPG acrylic lacquer reducer for thinning everything. So far, I have had very good success. The lacquer reducer does a real good job of cleaning my air brush, too. PPG’s pricey, but very consistant results.[:)]

I will post final pics in my Interior Detailing thread when I get old 9000 populated, and do another photo session of her.

DC

A little mold making tip: I use MM’s One-To-One silicone. If you mix up too much for the mold you’re making, let it set up and save it. I also save old and defective molds, chop it all up into 1/4" size pieces and store it in a jar. When I make a new mold, I pour in enough of the liquid silicone to coat the master, then pour in the chopped up silicone to fill most of the rest of the mold and fill up the rest with more liquid until the mold is full. The old silicone will become one with the new and you cut down on waste and make that not so cheap silicone go further.

Great! [tup] Thanks for the tip, modelmaker. That stuff is pretty expensive, but I like the MM, too. Counting the original Alumilite kit, MM stuff, shipping and other materials, I got about $120 into those chairs![:O] I’m hoping to find some other uses for the rest of the MM stuff in the future.

With the bottles all sealed and in zip-locks, how long of a shelf life do you think I can expect?

Thanks, DC

Get a can of that air evacuating gas that MM sells, it will prolong the life of the white part. Also stir it occaisionally. The blue part seems to last forever, but the white part seems to last about 6 months, longer if you use that inert gas. Spray it in both the bottle and the bag.

Thanks for the info, modelmaker, but I think I will pass on the MM Xtend-it. The 1-to-1 Rapid Mold Rubber is less than $5 more. I did find Xtend-it for about $15 which makes it a little more attractive, but it looks like it will extend the life an average of about 2 years. I’m going to have to think about it since I don’t forsee any more molding/casting projects within that time. If I could get 4 years extension, I would probably buy the Xtend-it…for $15.

Oh, the Xtend-it, itself, has a limited shelf life.

Again, thank you for your time and information. [:)]

DC

I still have the phone/control box and magazine table to put in the obs lounge, and then populate the car. I have decided to put little plastic peoples in, but it will be with museum putty. I’ll do a final photo session and post pics on my Interior Detailing thread.

Thanks for looking.

DC