Track cleaning. What do you use? I was thinking about using Isopropyl Alcohol 70% for cleaning my track, would this do any harm? Thoughts? For some reason the track I just put down is already dirty! I know track cleaning is an ongoing process but this is really surprising to me. I’ve operated for maybe an hour and the track and turnouts were purchased brand new. I’m trying to stay away from Goo Gone or similar products because I’ve seen and heard that it leaves its’ own residue where it’s applied.
I’ve noticed on my track work that I have some areas where the track joins another section and there seems to be a slight ridge. I have run over my track several times and have had no derailments with locomotives or rolling stock so my question is would it be okay to take a cosmetic nail file to file these areas down or would it change the shape of the rail head too much and cause more issues? When I originally put the track down several weeks ago I didn’t notice this occurrence in so many places. I don’t think I’m having expansion or contraction issues becasue I’m not seeing any great temperature changes and the room stays extremely dry or greatly lacks humidity.
This is a question that comes up almost weekly – if you look back through the forums you’ll find many opinions and discussions about the various types of track cleaning methods and devices.
My experience is that locomotive wheels get dirty much more rapidly than track. It also appears to be related to the electricity itself - I run mostly shays and I’m a DC guy; I notice that the wheels on one side of the loco collect much more grime than those on the other side.
I use a fine track cleaning block for my rails, and I occasionally run a track cleaning car. I clean wheels using a fine rubber/appraisive block while I run the loco inverted in a foam cradle.
I’ve spent some time taking a q tip and cleaning the wheels of an Atlas diesel I have. The wheels are dirty! I’m not sure if I picked up extra gunk on the layout I ran it on this weekend or what but for only running the unit for about an hour or so it sure was dirty. Is there something with Atlas wheels that cause this? I’ve also taken and cleaned the track using the isopropyl alcohol. I’ve noticed extra gunk around soldered rail joints is this normal?
I was the GLEAM method myself. Just type GLEAM into the search engine here and you’ll find all kinds of info on it. As far as filing down uneven spots at track joints, go for it. It’s recommended that such spots be filed until they’re smooth. Regarding the dirt on your locos wheels, part of that (or most of it) could be from the lube that was used. I’ve seen many people who overdo the lubing. A TINY drop on each main gear will do. Too much will work it’s way out onto the wheels and could cause pickup problems as well as get on the track. Too much will also attract dust and create a gummy mess. So use it sparingly. I use Dexron/Mercon transmission oil. It’s compatible with plastic and doesn’t have the habit of slinging off.
John, Isoproyl is exactly what I perfer to use, especially for cleaning wheels. The 90% works better, and great to keep around for scenery and ballasting use later on. The easiest way to clean loco wheels, mainly diesel, is to wet a spot on a paper towel, lay on the track and run one truck at a time back and forth accross the towel. (The Kadee “gladhand/ trip pin” wants to snag the towel so make sure you tuck towel under.) You’d be amazed the black steaks that you see as the alcohol disolves and cleans the wheels. I also like to grab the sideframes an wiggle from side to side to clean the flanges as well. Once you have an larger operating layout, you can look into some of the track cleaning “tank” dispensing type cars. You can do the same for rolling stock wheels but you’d just be rolling them on the towel. For stubborn dirt a Q-tip will do.
I have run over my track several times and have had no derailments with locomotives or rolling stock so my question is would it be okay to take a cosmetic nail file to file these areas down or would it change the shape of the rail head too much and cause more issues?
Hi John,
A cosmetic file won’t do the job. Yon will need a small metal file as those found at Micro-Mart. If you aren’t having derailments if is an optional issue unless it makes the cars wobble. I found that steamers were more track sensitive than diesels.
Thanks for the helpful advice. I have been using the search function a lot over the past few days to help guide me on questions that have risen up as I’ve encountered things.
I used the method of grinding the wheels on paper towel and it did work wonders. I was impressed at just how clean they were when I inspected them after the clean. My only concern is that this could potentially do drive train damage to the locomotive? If many people recommend doing this procedure it must not be all that harmful…
On the track height issue is all of the track the same? Is it code 100 or code 83 or code 70? I knew someone that had bought a bunch of used flex track on ebay and it was a mix of two different code of track and he had issues with the track heights at the connections. Just an idea of the problem.
Track was purchased new from a dealer. All my track is Atlas Code 100. It’s not every joint by some and it’s noticeable but not noticeable to the point where things derail. I ran trains around again today for a good 30 minutes and nothing came off the track anywhere I ran. I know it’s not the most perfect track work but everyone needs to start somewhere.
John, once again I will post this page that I think I copied from a Model Railroader mag. Sorry for the grainy pic but that’s the way it was when I copied it.
I’m not sure whom the original author is of this but whomever goes full credit.
Believe me this method really does work as I have one section of straight track with a one inch section ( < track length > ) of “Bounty” 2 ply paper towel ( suppose any brand will do ) across tracks using three pieces of thin brass strips bent at ends to 90 degrees and stuck into roadbed over towel, each on outside of rail and one clip dead center between rails ( keeps coupler trip pin from snagging ).
Do not stretch paper towel to tight on inside of rails ( use just a very little slack ) or train/cars may derail.
At first I cleaned my track with 91% rubbing alcohol in a “Tony’s Trains” brass CMX rail cleaner tank car. Then I put down the towel with the clips, ran about 15 cars and had to change paper ( real dirty wheels[:-^] ) ,then ran another 15 cars using a different engine each time until the job was done. I probably should have cleaned the wheels first before cleaning the whole track. OH well.[%-)]
On the layouts that have many more engines and rolling stock than I either insta
The track has not been balasted yet. I actually don’t even have all my track work in yet as I just started putting the layout together about a month ago. What I currently have is the two main lines open and one spur track area which a future industry will utilize. I’ve been taking a break from things and swithing out the spurs I have now as well as running trains on the main lines. [:O]
That’s a great article and very interesting idea put into action. I can only imagine how great it works! [:)]
