Mortar lines in brick

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

I would like to hear other people’s ideas on how to fill in the mortar lines in the brick works on plastic structures. I have tried two techniques. One is a water/alcohol/paint wash (from one of the Model Railroader books - this works well to make very old looking bricks where they are heavily weathered and the mortar is very light). The second is paint over with appropriate color of acrylic paint (light gray or tan), then wipe off the paint to try to leave it just in the mortar lines. This works ok, but not great. Any other ideas…

2

Review Robert’s Brick Mortar-water based
Pre-mixed, 4 OZ. $8.00 Plus Approx $3.05 shipping
PO Box 27057
Milwaukee Wi 53227
Answering machine only, 414-422-1371

3

I use white for new brick mortar lines,flat of course. Secure smooth rag to flat surface and paint section with slightly diluted paint. Before it dries, rub off white paint with your “rag block”. I have gotten great results. Have fun! Jerry

4

I paint mine with a very fine bru***akes a lot of time but the result is worth it…

5

Ageed…for this purpose, I use a low cost ‘craft paint’, flat acrylic, Plaid brand or similar, diluted with water. Holds well when dry, BUT, if you don’t like your result, it’s easy to get off with an old toothbrush and some more water.
regards/Mike

6

There are a couple of things I do, depending on the “age” of the building and its overall appearance.

  1. Using a very fine (#000 or #0000) round red sable brush and dilute “Aged Concrete” or “Foundation,” (or even sometimes “Earth”), I let the mortar color flow into the lines by just touching the tip of the bru***o the line. Capillary action will draw the dilute paint from the brush into the mortar lines.

  2. After weathering the brick, I give it a spray of Testor’s Dullcoat. After the Dullcoat has dried, I use plain rubbing alcohol and a fine red sable bru***o flow the alcohol into the mortar lines. The alcohol reacts with the lacquer in Dullcoat and turns it gray-white. Be careful not to overload the mortar lines, though, as the effect can spread to the surface of the bricks.

7

I do exactly the opposite of everyone here, and I’m pretty sold on the results.

I over-spray the whole wall my mortar color. Then, after it’s dry, I DRYBRUSH on the brick color, being sure the brush isn’t over-loaded with paint.

-Gerry

8

An old idea that people used to recommend was white liquid shoe polish, the apply and wipe off method.
But before using any method – take a good look at a brick building and pretend it is a model. I happen to think most people overdo the mortar lines, just as I think most bricks in general are way too prominent compared to prototype (ditto for scribed wood – wide and deep enough to put an HO hand into). If we could magically reduce a prototype building to HO or N we’d be asking “Hey where did all the detail go?”
Dave Nelson

9

Gerry, I’ve also done that on several occasions with great success. I’ve found it works really well with hydrocal castings. I use Apple Barrel’s “Indian Red” acrylic for the drybrushing.

10

I use baby powder brushed on then wiped off then
spray with dullcote. This works very well for
small areas.