This shot shows the difference between the “mortared” wall and where it hasn’t been “mortared” on the small section on the big wall.
Another (better) shot of the difference between the “mortared” and non “mortared” wall.
This last one is shot with some bad lighting.
I used Testors Gull Grey thinned to the consistency of water as a wash. I think that was a little too “hot”. It looks ok I just can’t seem to get the deep red of the bricks back, it looks a little hazy. I’ve sanded it with 400 grit but it still looks hazy to me.
Get yourself some colored pencils, soak them in a little vinegar and color your bricks with the same method that master modeler John Pitts does his.
Take a look in my signature for my PBase site where there are examples of his colored pencil brick work. It’s an amazing process, simple and just what you need.
It’s kind of hard to see all the details because your photos are a little dark but, from what I can tell, the mortar job looks pretty good. Except when a brick building is brand new, the brick don’t look red. As the mortar weathers out and the briks themselves start to “weap” from exposure to weather, everything looks more whitish. You can still tell they are red bricks but they are very dull red. Take a ride around and look at the brick buildings in your town and I think you’ll see what I mean. Now, if you’re modeling an era when these buildings were brand new, things get a little tricker. You can try the colored pencil approach but, if you look at the pictures at Jerry’s web site, you’ll see that even that doesn’t make the brick look a deep red. I just think a subdued red like you already have is going to look pretty protoypical on your layout.
Hello this is what I did to my round house I used aged concert for the motor and then rub it with a Tuscan red pencil 2 times to get a dark red look on the brick then sprayed it with dull cote. I don’t think it looks to bad for a first time
the brick looks darker in person the in the pic hope this helps Frank
I use the same method, but with white acrylic paint, and the tops can then be buffed with paper towol or finger to remove from faces, the green “moss” was dry brushed onto the stone after the white wash.
on this one I left more on top as a weatherd stain on the blocks
